Monumental Three and a half years, 760 routes: inside the labor of love behind Mt. Rushmore's new guidebook - “Was it worth it?” Like a broken record, the question keeps spinning in my head. On the surrounding spires, steely gray, crystalline granite sparkles in the crisp fall air, but the chunk of rock between my legs doesn’t seem so magical. I’m straddling the tip of an obscure spire called Lost Yeti, with only a rusty relic of protection far below, and there’s no anchor. I have no choice but to mumble “I’m off,” put the second on belay and then start figuring out how to get off this thing.
May 2012 - 305 COVER: Chris Hirsch high on Chemical Wire (5.11), Mt. Rushmore, South Dakota. Photo by Andrew Burr. BECKEY'S FAVORITES: Eight amazing rock routes from the legendary climber's huge book. RUSHMORE: Inside the new guidebook to South Dakota's crystal towers. NEW VS. RED: How Southeastern climbers battled for bragging rights to the "Best Crag in America."
Hayden Kennedy on Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek Video by Duct Tape Then Beer- Hayden Kennedy makes the first ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, Utah. Attaching the 5.14- grade means this is likely the hardest route in Indian Creek. Nick Martino first attempted the route, at the 4X4 Wall, back in 2007 and called it the "Kansas City Special." Kennedy credits his tall (6'2") and lanky frame for helping him with one of the cruxes. Read more here.
Crack School, Episode 3: Fist Cracks Video by Wild Country - "Crack School" is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, hands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall technique. Designed for those who know nothing about crack climbing, these six videos will illustrate the most pertinent points for starting out.
Holey Land Pulling pockets in the Land of Enchantment - A pocket is an absence, a hole in the rock created by gas bubbles, decomposing choss, or a missing cobble. But it’s an absence that climbers love, and New Mexico, a state known as much for its violent volcanic geology as for its spicy green chili, is the pocket capital of the Southwest. Whether you’re pimping monodoigts on the tan tuff of Cochiti Mesa, grabbing anti-cobbles on the red conglomerate of El Rito, going monkey-bars on incuts at the Enchanted Tower, or tweaking basalt divots at White Rock, you’ll find pure pocket pleasure in central New Mexico.
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May 2012 - 305
Hayden Kennedy on Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek
Crack School, Episode 3: Fist Cracks
Holey Land
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Anchor Replacement Initiative
