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 1996 — American Alpine Journal
Volume 38 Issue 70
Cover • FREE
Cover, Table of Contents, Preface • 0-3 • FREE
Features:
Infinite South
Ermanno Salvaterra • 4-10
An infinite journey on an infinite wall.
AREA: Patagonia, Argentina.
NEW ROUTE: Infinito Sud (VII 5.11 A4, ca 1,350 meters. 36 pitches) on the south face of Cerro Terre (3128 meters). November 3-26, 1995 (Ermanno Salvaterra, Piergiorgio Vidi, Roberto Manni).
Ensuño
Andrea Sarchi • 11-18
The northwest buttress of Fitz Roy.
AREA: Patagonia, Argentina
NEW ROUTE: Ensueño (VI 6c/7a Al, 2500 meters) on the northwest buttress of Fitz Roy (3410 meters), January 22-26, 1995 (Andrea Sarchi, Lorenzo Nadali, Maoro Girardi).
Badlands
Conrad Anker • 19-28
At the mercy of the Torrre god.
AREA: Patagonian Argentina.
NEW ROUTE: The Badlands (VI 5.10 A3 W14) on Torre Egger (2730 meters). Summit reached December 12, 1994 (Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith): Tomahawk (V 5.9 A2 WI5) on Cerro Stanhardt, via a new variation, summit reached January 11, 1995 (Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding, Rolando Garibotti).
The Roads We Choose
Anatoli Bookreev • 29-39
AREA: Nepalese Himalaya.
ASCENTS: Mount Everest (8848 meters) via the North Ridge. Spring 1995: Dhaulagiri (8167 meters) solo via the North Ridge, in 17 hours 1.5 minutes from Base Camp to summit, Fall 1995; Manaslu (8163 meters) via the Japanese (North Face) Route, Winter 1995.
The End of a Dream
Daniel Mazur • 40-46
An alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makalu.
AREA: Nepalese Himalaya.
ASCENT: Makalu (8481 meters) via the southeast ridge, October 4-9, 1995 (Daniel Mazur, Jonathon Pratt, Alex Nikifarov, Andy Collins).
PERSONNEL: Daniel Mazur, Jonathon Pratt, Alex Nikifarov, Andy Collins, Rob Allen, Chris Shaw, Allen Treadwell.
Tawoche
Mick Fowler • 47-55
AREA: Nepalese Himalaya.
NEW ROUTE: The Fowler-Littlejohn Route (ED (Sup), 43 pitches) on the northeast buttress of Tawoche (6542 meters), April 22-28, 1995 (Mick Fowler and Pat Littlejohn).
PERSONNEL: Mick Fowler (leader), Pat Littlejohn, Chris Watts, Mike Morrison.
The Wolf’s Fang
Ivar Erik Tollefsen • 56-65
11 days on the northwest wall of Ulvetanna
AREA: Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.
NEW ROUTES: Ulvetanna (2931 meters, highest peak in the Fenriskjeften massif) via the northwest wall, January-February 1994 (Ivar Erik Tollefsen, Sjur Nesheim, Robert Caspersen).
Freeing the Salathé
Alex Huber • 66-70
AREA: Yosemite Valley, California.
ASCENT: The Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b. 3300 feet, 36 pitches), on El Capitan, June 1995 (Alex Huber).
PERSONNEL: Alex Huber, Mark Chapman, Heinz Zak (photographer).
The Elevator Shaft
Doug Chabot • 71-78
A wild ride to the summit of Mount Johnson.
AREA: Alaska Range.
NEW ROUTE: The Elevator Shaft (Alaska Grade 6, 5.7 A3 AI5+) on the north face of Mount Johnson (8,460 feet), second ascent of the peak, first traverse, May 31 - June 3, 1995 (Jack Tackle and Doug Chabot).
The Alaskan Mile
Daryl Miller • 79-86
AREA: Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska.
CIRCUMNAVIGATION: Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker massifs, 350 miles, 45 days, February 17 - April 2 (Daryl Miller and Mark Stasik). All caches were placed and removed with respect for the rules and regulations of Denali National Park and Preserve.
A Ghost of a Chance
Steve House • 87-94
An account of the first ascent of Mount McKinley’s Father and Son’s Wall.
AREA: Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska.
NEW ROUTE: First Born (Alaska Grade V, 33 hours round-trip from camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress) on the northwest face (“Father and Son’s Wall”) of Mount McKinley, July 1-2, 1995 (Eli Helmuth and Steve House).
The Book of Shadows
Eric Brand • 95-102
The first ascent of the north face of the Trango Nameless Tower.
AREA: Pakistan Karakoram.
NEW ROUTE: The Book of Shadows (VII A4 5.10+ WI IV), July I7-August 4, 1995 (Willie Benegas, Eric Brand, Jared Ogden*, Kevin Starr).
PERSONNEL: Damian Benegas, Willie Benegas, Laurence Bohn (Base Camp Manager). Eric Brand, Jared Ogden, Kevin Starr. *Recipient of an American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant.
The Grand Voyage
Jean-Christophe LaFaille • 103-112
A solo enchainment of 10 Alpine faces in 15 days.
AREA: Western Alps, Europe.
SOLO ENCHAINMENT: Lauper Route (TD+, 1500 meters) on the Northeast Face of the Eiger; North Face (TD, mixed, 750 meters) of the Month; North Face (1000 meters) of the Alteschom (new route); North Face (TD/TD+, 900 meters) of the Nesthorn (new finish); Marinelli Couloir (D+, 45° to 55°, 2300 meters) on the East Face of Monte Rosa: Shmid Route (ED1, 1000 meters) on the North Face of the Matterhorn: North Face (1000 meters) of the Breithorn (new route); North Face (TD-/TD, 650 meters) of Mont Blanc de Cheilon; North Couloir (AD+, 800 meters) of the Col de L’Aiguille Verte; The Shroud (TD+, 750 meters) of the Grandes Jorasses. Travel between objectives accomplished on skis (180 kilometers) or by foot.
In the Land of the Inuit
Mark Synnott • 113-120
New routes and perceptions in the Sam Ford Fjord.
AREA: Sam Ford Fjord, Baffin Island, Canada
NEW ASCENTS: Crossfire (VI 5.10 A4, 19 pitches with 60-meter ropes, then a mile of ridge to the summit) on The Great Cross Pillar (5,500 feet), first ascent, May - June, 1995 (Warren Hollinger, Mark Synnott•); Nuvualik (VI 5.10+ A3) on The Turrett (2,000 feet), new route, second ascent of The Turrett (first ascensionists unknown), June 1995 (Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore, Mark Synnott*). *Recipient of an American Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant
Superunknown
Paul Gagner • 121-128
Four thousand feet of uncertainty, on Baffin Island’s Walker Citadel.
AREA: Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fjord, Baffin Island, Canada.
FIRST ASCENT: Superunknown (VII 5.10+ A3, 4,000 feet, 26 pitches) on the Walker Citadel, June-July 1995 (Gagner, Lovelace).
The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedy
Xavier Eguskitza • 129-134
“A seven-strong expedition from the Spanish region of Aragon was formed by leader José (Pepe) Garcés (38), Javier Olivar (38) and Manuel Anson (32), members of the “Montañeros de Aragon” Club from Zaragoza; and Javier Escartin (46), Lorenzo Ortas (42), Lorenzo Ortiz (29) and Dr. Manuel Avellanas (42), from the Peña Guara Club of Huesca. All of them, with the exception of Anson, had previous Himalayan experience and between them had reached the summits of Hidden Peak by a new route in 1983 (Escartin and Ortas), Everest in 1991 (Garcés) and Nanga Parbat in 1991 (Ortiz).”
Egotrip Into the Abyss
Reinhold Messner • 135-140
On Alison Hargreaves, Benoit Chamoux and passage in the mountains.
“Even today, in the ever-deepening chasm between man and mountain, the same questions are unanswered as yesterday, and as in the beginning. And every answer is a new question for those who are left behind. Man does not have to climb up mountains—but as long as people travel the mountains, people will die in them. What we find up there we show not in how we drive ourselves to the summit, but in how much life we retrieve from the abyss of our egos and rescue into the valley below.”
From Vinowara to Jallawaya
Liam P. O’Brien • 141-145
An Etymological Exploration.
“The Vinowara region of the Cordillera Real of Bolivia begins at the 5200-meter Chachakumani Pass located just south of the Chachakumani massif. The range then continues southeast for 12 kilometers before ending at the Jichuquta valley floor. In this area there are more than 50 peaks over 5000 meters, but not one 6000-meter mountain. Because of this, most expeditions pass the area up when in Bolivia. In fact, only a handful of expeditions have entered the Vinowara region at all.”
Climbs and Expeditions (1995 climbs):
USA - Lower 48 States • 146-169
Alaska • 170-189
Canada • 190-204
Greenland • 205-210
Northern South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia • 211-220
Argentina, Chile • 221-239
Antarctica, Africa, Norway, Australasia • 240-242 • FREE
India • 242-257
Nepal • 258-285
Pakistan • 286-308
China, Tibet • 309-319
CIS, Kyrgyzstan • 320-330
Backmatter:
Book Reviews • 331-368 • FREE
Edited by David Stevenson
In Memoriam • 369-390 • FREE
Club Activities • 391-401 • FREE
Edited by Frederick 0. Johnson
Appendices • 402-406 • FREE
Index • 407-427 • FREE
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