ClimbingAnchor Upgrade at Puoux, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado

Anchor Upgrade at Puoux, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado

Report and photos by Michael Schneiter — Wed, 30 May 2012 05:37:44 +0000

Roadside Attraction. The blue numbers indicate the location of existing bolts (or recently existing in the case of the 3rd) and the red numbers indicate the possible location of new bolts.

That's what bolts look like on the inside. 3rd bolt on Roadside Attraction at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

A Summary of the Rebolting Work at the Puoux (Spring 2009)

The Long Haul – Replaced belay/rappel anchor at base of The Long Haul (old cold shuts, rusted bolts)

Urban Cowboy – Replaced 7 of 8 lead bolts and anchor on Urban Cowboy (old cold shuts, rusted bolts, one bolt with fractured rock underneath bolt)

Two Tone – Replaced 2 crux bolts on Two Tone (bolts were in extremely hollow rock, likely a result of freeze-thaw process – on the route immediately adjacent Two Tone a large flake, with a bolt in the middle of it, spontaneously fell from the cliff in 2006)

Kor’s Corner – Replaced 2 crux bolts in roof section (4th and 5th bolts) – both rusted bolts in rock that seeps a lot, one of which was in hollow-sounding and fractured rock.

Hard Kor – The 4th bolt on Kor’s Corner is a shared bolt with Hard Kor and has been replaced. 2 of the 3 bolts on Hard Kor have been replaced, both of which were extremely rusted and consisted of old cold shuts. One bolt left to be replaced.

Road Runner – Anchor updated. Old chain removed.

The old and new top anchors on Road Runner at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon. The chain was starting to wear thin and it's not easily replaceable. Plus, because the bolts were put in the top of the rock, years of water has been trickling down into the holes, causing deterioration. Additionally, the chain was causing an ugly rust stain on the rock. Because it's one of the most popular routes at the Puoux, it seemed like a good candidate for some fresh hardware.

3rd bolt on Roadside Attraction at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Roadside Attraction – A rebolting of the route (3 of the 4 lead bolts) was completed, with permission of the first ascentionist. This climb had the 3rd bolt come out with the block of rock that it was in. The 2nd bolt was in some slightly hollow rock and a fall going to the 2nd bolt could have left the climber on the ground. Scary!

Unknown 5.9 – One bolt in a hollow flake was moved/replaced.

For additional photos of the anchor work at Puoux visit: mountainproject.com

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