Anchor Upgrade in White Rock, New Mexico

Anchor Upgrade in White Rock, New Mexico

Report and photos by Jason Halladay - I had received some hardware from the ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative) to be used to replace old and worn anchors. I had hardware for four anchors and believed that the anchors at Gallows Edge (on the basalt cliffs below White Rock, NM) could benefit from an upgrade. Gallows Edge has a number of well-protected moderate sport climbs on great rock and is a natural first choice location for new climbers looking to gain some leading experience. I replaced the anchor hardware on Pejos Route, Once Were Warriors, Princess Buttercup and Planet of the Apes. I only had to drill one new hole, on Princess Buttercup, as the bolts in situ were good, stainless steel bolts.


Climbing at the Gallows Edge.


Climbing at the Gallows Edge.


Anchors on Pejo's Route, 5.7. The bolts are stainless steel bolts in good shape so no need to drill additional new holes.


I simply removed the equipment from the bolts (chain bolted directly on the bolt with washers) and put the new quality ARI donated Petzl hardware.


Anchors on Once Were Warriors, 5.8. Again, the bolts were just fine but the washers/chain setup was weird and the chains were pretty worn.


No need to drill additional holes, just replaced the hardware on the bolts.


Anchors on Princess Buttercup, 5.6. The right bolt was barely sticking out of the rock so the nut could only be screwed on about 2/3rds of the way through the nut. I drilled a new hole to the left and installed a new ARI-donated bolt with hardware...


Nice sunset was a bonus to the work of replacing the worn hardware on the anchors at Gallows Edge.


New left bolt placed with new hardware on both bolts. I will return to saw/patch the old bolt to the right.


Anchors on Planet of the Apes, 5.8, before replacement. One bolt had apparently been chopped/replaced (middle) at some point in the past. Chain and aluminum carabiners were pretty worn.


Planet of the Apes anchors after ARI hardware installed.



No comments yet - you should start the discussion!