When I'm Seconding a Multi-pitch Climb, How Should I Re-rack Most Efficiently?

When I'm seconding a multi-pitch climb, how should I re-rack most efficiently? —Anonymous

For longer, more gear-intensive pitches, re-racking on two slings is most effective. The leader should clip shoulder-length slings to her first two pieces; as you clean, drape one sling over each shoulder, and rack pro on one side and draws and biners on the other. If the leader isn’t placing much gear, re-racking everything on one sling may be fastest. Always re-rack your nuts on a single carabiner. Clipping the gear in rack order on the sling can help once you arrive at the belay, but the time gain is small; it may be best to just keep climbing. At the belay, the leader takes the sling of gear and re-racks, freeing the person following the next pitch to organize the rope.

—Ian Nicholson is an AMGA certified rock and alpine guide based in Seattle.

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