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	<title>Climbing2004 Golden Piton Awards &#8211; Bouldering</title>
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		<title>2004 Golden Piton Awards: Bouldering</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/climber/2004-golden-piton-awards-bouldering/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/climber/2004-golden-piton-awards-bouldering/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2012 06:24:52 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[What do you look for in the “boulder problem of the year”? Nothing could be more dubious than mere ratings: The top grades are adrift on a sea of genetics and sponsorship contracts. And stature has to count for something. There are extreme sitstarts that desperately flirt with the dirt &#8230; and then there are [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!--begin paragraph--><strong><em></em></strong>What do you look for in the “boulder problem of the year”? Nothing could be more dubious than mere ratings: The top grades are adrift on a sea of genetics and sponsorship contracts. And stature has to count for something. There are extreme sitstarts that desperately flirt with the dirt &#8230; and then there are truly proud problems.</p>
<p>There were many classic-style blocs established in the V14-V16 grades, worthy ventures all, if near impossible to verify, but what was unusual and outstanding? Near the top of our list were: Dean Potter’s send of the historic crack project on the Le Conte Boulder in <a href="/route/favorite-place/yosemite/" class="aim-internal-link">Yosemite</a>, a contender for the most painful boulder problem in California; Cicada Jenerik’s ascent of the lowly <em>Low Rider </em>(V10) in Bishop — notable because Jenerik was only 10 years old. And if you define <a href="/bouldering/" class="aim-internal-link">bouldering</a> as unroped climbing where you can fall from the crux without dying, how about Neil Gresham’s no-roped-rehearsal ascent of <em>Wizard</em>, a 45-foot 8a deep-water solo at Pembroke, South Wales?</p>
<p>Too high to be called a boulder problem? Our winner was longer: Dai Koyamada’s <em>Wheel of Life</em> in the Rave Cave in Australia’s Grampians. This near-100-foot line combines several double-digit roof problems, classics by Klem Loskot and Fred Nicole, into one megajourney that was just begging to be linked.</p>
<p>Koyamada spent 20 days on the problem. Compare that to his time for the benchmark V15 Dreamtime earlier in the year: two days. Longer than most sport pitches, <em>Wheel of Life</em> is not gradable. Thank God.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<td><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/koyamada_7990.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="274" border="0" /></p>
<div class="imagecaption">Only 30 meters to go.</div>
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<p><!-- hi jon --></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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