All-Around Phenom: Ines Papert


Fresh off winning the women’s category at the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival, the German superstar Ines Papert, 35, is fitter than ever. An all-around ice, mixed, and rock jock, Parpert swept the Ouray comp in 2005, beating all the men, and from 2000 to 2006 won a record 21 Ice World Cup events. (See Climbing No. 282 for a profile.) Based in Bayerisch Gmain, southern Germany, Papert is a dedicated single mother to her 9-year-old son, Manu. She makes her living as a pro climber: she’s redpointed the 1,600-foot Camilotto-Pellisier (5.13d), on the Dolomites’ Cima Grande; established one of the world’s great mixedtestpieces, Into the Wild (WI5 M12), in Icefall Brook, Canada; and in summer 2009 with Lisi Steurer, FA’ed the 1,300-foot Power of Silence, a 5.13- on Middle Huey Spire, in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables.

What are your favorite pieces of gear?
A belay seat from Beal, just a small piece of thin fabric that you hung from your harness, and at an anchor you could unfold it and sit in it. I used to bring it on steep alpine routes, but unfortunately, it’s not available anymore and I lost mine. Also, the ice screws from Black Diamond [BD] are amazing, as is their ATCGuide — I always use it; it’s multifunctional and you don’t need an extra device.

Do you share gear with Manu?
He has his own ice tools (I bought them from Petzl, since they sell small tools that fit into kids’ hands), but actually, ice climbing is nothing kids should do — Manu loves skiing and mountain biking. We also share helmets, since he uses his BD helmet for skiing, climbing, and biking.

Which gear have you punished the most?
The BD Cobra is my favorite ice tool. I used it on Kwangde Shar [FA of Cobra Norte, VI M8 WI5 ED3] and would always use it again. My Arc’teryx clothing is so durable that I have a hard time destroying a piece — they’re doing very durable Gore-Tex® clothing.

Do you have any care rituals for your hardware?
The one thing I always do before ice climbing is sharpen my blades. And sometimes I wash my rope after trips with lots of dirt and sand.

GEAR

  • Apparel, sleeping equipment, and backpacks: Arc'teryx
  • Boots: Lowa
  • Eyewear: Julbo
  • Hardware: Black Diamond Equipment
  • Outerwear: Gore-Tex®
  • Rock Shoes: Red Chili

 


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