Brian Dickinson - Reader Blog 12
4/24/11 - I slept great last night and woke up ready to move to Camp I. I gave JoAnna a call before I left since she was having dinner with good friends (Heytings and Bakers) so I was able to speak to them on all. It was great hearing their excited voices but I had to cut it short since Pusan was ready to head up. He basically was climbing up with me and heading back down, leaving me there to fend for myself for the night. He plans to climb back up with Dennis tomorrow. I will most likely head up to Camp II with our other climbing Sherpa, Lochdpa, and then go all the way back to basecamp to rest.
The climb up was uneventful other than my realization of my successful acclimatization process. I wasn’t suffocating or winded at all… all the way to Camp I (19,700’). And I had a very heavy pack since I was transporting my high altitude gear. It’s awesome to see the body at work. Pusan says I should only need to go to Camp II one more time to sleep, climb to Camp III where I’ll sleep on oxygen and then I’m ready for the summit!
Also on the way up we ran into Dave Hahn and his group, 16 year old girl and her dad. We chatted for a few minutes then went our ways. The ice fall has changed just in the last few days. Ladder sizes have increased from 3 to 4. More crevasses have opened up. Large ceracs have fallen, which luckily nobody was under. There were a couple sections of ice climbing that could use ladders. At that altitude it takes a lot of energy to exert a heavy pack plus you’re body up the face of an ice wall.
When we got to Camp I Pusan made us tea and we ate a lunch. He then dropped off a few stoves and food for cooking. I also have a radio just in case something goes wrong, which I’m not anticipating during my solitude Easter camping expedition. Before he left I asked where a safe place to use the restroom was. He pointed in a direction and said to be careful. After he left I explored that direction to pee (can I say pee on this blog?). 3 steps from my tent was a step over crevasse that looked bottomless. I could see someone falling into that in the middle of the night and never being heard from again. Luckily I brought a relief bottle for the tent so I don’t have to venture out in the dark.
Typical symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) are headaches, lack of appetite and nausea. I don’t have any and ate enough for 3 people. I also brought my tripod and took a bunch of sponsor banner pictures with Everest in the background. Plus I took some video for Digital Lifeboat. I also recorded myself blowing up my air mattress to document how acclimatized I was. I didn’t pass out or even require extra breaths so that’s a good sign.
That’s about it for now. I’m just melting some snow in my vestibule for drinking water and then I’ll probably read a book. I look forward to climbing to Camp II in the morning!