Dave Graham – Pro Blog 7
The Spanish Chica climbing scene was also in full effect, with visiting climbing legends from the south, on a rampage with our friend Mariona Marti for the weekend. Raquel, Pati, and Ruth all climb 8b I think, and seem to keep it pretty damn real every day they go out. Definitely a nice time though, and a good change of energy compared with the serious dude-only-climbing sessions due to the hard routes and lack of sun.
On the falling-off tip and project-front here is the news. I have been very close to doing a route called Ursus 8c/8c+, which is a badass five-bolt route on a boulder, but I fell on the last move. I tried a 9a in Santa Linya I want to do called Traversia de Emnienda 9a, which is 50 meters long and really steep, burly and physical. In Perles, another beautiful area, I tried another hard route, which I really want to do called Esclatamasters 9a, a sick blue line of collonettes diagonally into a blue headwall of crimpers and little pinches, and finally I tried Estado Critico 9a in Siurana yesterday, my third hard project, a long crack leading to a giant blue streak, like 40 meters long and crimpy like hell all the way to the anchor. I will try again tomorrow on Estado, and hopefully, after my weight belt training, it will feel much easier. That’s my word. All my current hopes and dreams. My glass-world.
In all cases, it’ll be all good, it’s just going be a bunch of forever-unanswered questions. What is 9a+? Realization, La Rambla, Im Reich des Shogun, maybe Coup de Grace? And is 9a Action Directe, Estado Critico, A Muerte, Kinematix? in each catagory, one asks, are these all the same grade? What’s 9a with Bain de Saing involved? Good Lord. Only the people doing these routes know, and we are all pretty lazy, and some not the most driven to know these answers. Time will prove a lot.