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	<title>ClimbingJim Thornburg &#8211; Photographer, Climber, Belayer to the Stars</title>
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		<title>Jim Thornburg &#8211; Photographer, Climber, Belayer to the Stars; Berkeley, California</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/climber/jim-thornburg-photographer-climber-belayer-to-the-stars-berkeley-california/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/climber/jim-thornburg-photographer-climber-belayer-to-the-stars-berkeley-california/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 May 2012 05:02:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Compiled by Andrea Sutherland<br>	Photo by Nicky Dyal</dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[Whether he&#8217;s shooting with his Canon EOS 5D or climbing, the California native Jim Thornburg ( jimthornburg.com), 43, is at home at the crags. Thornburg first hit the rocks at 17 and has since combined stone and photography into his life&#8217;s work, traveling the globe. His first feature for Climbing was 1991&#8217;s &#8220;Steel Wheels&#8221; (No. [...]]]></description>
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<p>		  			  		  <div id="caption_400" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 385px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/JimThornburg-2008-600_4643.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/JimThornburg-2008_4641.jpg" height="546"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Nicky Dyal</p></div>
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<p><b>Whether he&rsquo;s shooting with his Canon EOS 5D or climbing, the California native Jim Thornburg ( <a href="http://www.jimthornburg.com" target="_blank">jimthornburg.com</a>), 43, is at home at the crags.</b> Thornburg first hit the rocks at 17 and has since combined stone and photography into his life&rsquo;s work, traveling the globe. His first feature for Climbing was 1991&rsquo;s &ldquo;Steel Wheels&rdquo; (No. 131), about Western limestone; his most recent was &ldquo;More Gunky than Funky&rdquo; (No. 258), about the Shawangunks. And among the many covers he&rsquo;s shot, one top seller has been No. 218&rsquo;s image of Rachel Babkirk on <i>Leave it to Jesus</i>, in the New River Gorge. For Thornburg, the easy part is snapping the pictures; the hard part is everything else.</p>
<p><b>It was raining in Berkeley</b> the day I bought my first pair of EBs. I decided to climb on a university building that was protected from the rain. Officer Freeman, a policeman who used to chase us when we rode our skateboards on campus, caught me traversing the building and arrested me on the spot. I spent the next four hours in jail, refusing to give him my mom&rsquo;s phone number. On the way home, I accidentally ran over a pedestrian with my VW Bug, bruising her up a bit. It might have been my worst day of climbing ever.</p>
<p><b>My fifteen minutes</b> happened in 1990, in a Nationals competition at the Berkeley Community Theatre. I was just hoping to make the semifinal cut of 40, but ended up placing third.</p>
<p><b>The first photo I ever sold</b> was of Jim Karn (the Chris Sharma of the late 1980s) on <i>Kings of Rap</i>, at Smith Rock. I took it paparazzi-style, and I think it was in the 1989 Chouinard catalog.</p>
<p><b><i>Stone Dance</i>, by Peter Brown,</b> is a 1990s climbing film that takes a much harder and more thoughtful look at free soloing than the usual glorifications you hear. It&rsquo;s one of my favorites. I was close with John Yablonski during the two years before his death, and I think the movie told a story about him that needed to be told. Yabo was a hero because he didn&rsquo;t ignore his pain or try to hide it. He was really honest about his pain and its connection to his soloing. I think that&rsquo;s something people who solo at least need to ponder.</p>
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<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all">		  			  		  <div id="caption_401" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 385px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/218-cover-600_4649.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/218-cover-375_4647.jpg" height="487"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Climbing Magazine Cover No. 218. Rachel Babkirk on Leave it to Jesus, New River Gorge, WV. Photo by jimthornburg.com.</p></div>
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<p><b>A couple of Pinnacles locals</b> were interrogating Yabo while he hung on a bolt, working on the first ascent of <i>Hot Lava Lucy</i>. The conversation went like this: Local: &ldquo;How&rsquo;d you get those bolts in?&rdquo; Yabo: &ldquo;On rappel.&rdquo; Local: &ldquo;Sounds pretty chickenshit to me.&rdquo; Yabo: &ldquo;Chickenshit? How &lsquo;bout I come down there and show you chickenshit?&rdquo; I thought that was pretty funny.</p>
<p><b>I had a clunky</b> Pentax K-1000 I used for many years. I had an intuitive relationship with that camera&rsquo;s light meter and almost always got the exposure perfect. Of course, that doesn&rsquo;t matter nowadays with digital. It used to be such a thrill (or disappointment) to get your film back from processing, and still nothing compares to a Velvia transparency under a good loupe &#8212; light and life come out of a slide in a way I can&rsquo;t replicate on a computer screen.</p>
<p><b>I belayed Chris Sharma</b> on his first attempt on <i>Realization</i>. I also belayed Ron Kauk on a near miss on <i>Magic Line</i>. Belayer to the stars . . . sigh.</p>
<p><b>The divisions</b> that used to separate trad, sport, and mountain climbing are becoming less and less defined. Today&rsquo;s climber understands it&rsquo;s all part of the same pond: a skinny boulderer pushing standards in a gym sends out ripples that eventually make it to the mountains.</p>
<p><b>The climbing life</b> and my life were one and the same 25 years ago. When you&rsquo;re young and trying to figure out who you are, it&rsquo;s easy to fall in love with climbing. Back then, the life was living out of a Toyota pickup and wearing white painter&rsquo;s pants. Doing runout climbs in Tuolumne and free-soloing cracks were the highest things you could aspire to &#8212; it was dangerous, incredibly romantic, and very alluring. I can relate to today&rsquo;s version of the climbing life &#8212; it&rsquo;s really not that different &#8212; but I can&rsquo;t live it anymore. I guess you could say I&rsquo;m having the classic midlife postclimbing identity crisis. I want to know who I am outside of climbing.</p>
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