• HPMarkGrundon

    Read This: Wide Eyes, High Times, and Hard Times

    Driving across the United States, we’d seen the forests of Northern California to the desert of Nevada, and now we crossed from Salt Lake City headed south, desolate and lonely, to the red rock desert of Moab, the real thing, man. The real thing if you’re a dreamer, an outdoorsman, a climber, like us. If you’ve read Desert Solitaire by Ed Abbey, and he planted dreams in your head of adventure in the forms of rock towers, red dirt, lone ravens, cactus, juniper trees and blue, so blue, skies.

  • HPPutnam

    Everyday Hero: 5 Ordinary Climbers Who Saved a Life (Part 5)

    A tiny ledge three pitches off the ground. The anchor is unclipped. Your belayer has just fallen over the edge. Now what?

  • HPYardley

    Everyday Hero: 5 Ordinary Climbers Who Saved a Life (Part 4)

    Everyone’s heard the story about a distraught mother lifting a car off her baby pinned underneath. Hoisting a falling climber back up onto a ledge comes pretty close.

  • HPJoeFaint2

    Everyday Hero: 5 Ordinary Climbers Who Saved a Life (Part 3)

    We’re told to carry the Ten Essentials, but we’re also told “light is right.” Most of the time we climb without all the survival gear needed for every possible scenario. Improvising with the gear we do have becomes essential.

  • HeroSplashHP

    Everyday Hero: 5 Ordinary Climbers Who Saved a Life

    Because of experience and training, innate ability and fortitude, or just instinctive reactions in moments of crisis, average climbers can respond to deadly emergencies in extraordinary ways. With courage, calm, stamina, strength, and ingenuity, on a day when nobody expected anything but the simple pleasures of climbing, they end up saving a life.

  • Hero1HP

    Everyday Hero: 5 Ordinary Climbers Who Saved a Life (Part 1)

    “Never take your brake hand off the rope.” That lesson is drilled into every climber from the first day he or she ties in, yet it’s all too easy to witness climbers disobeying this fundamental rule simply to swat a fly or reach for a snack. Now imagine keeping your brake hand on the rope even as you stare death in the face.

  • HPShred

    Interview: Shred All Fear Talks Mullets, Mustaches, and Mountains

    We first learned of Shred All Fear from their video, “Moab Madness!!!”. In it, the “band” climbs Ancient Art with magnificent mustaches on their faces, masculine mullet wigs on their heads, and electric guitars on their backs. It’s ridiculous and amazing. When we reached out to Shred All Fear about an interview, they responded with this list of demands...

  • HPMehall

    Read This: Redemption and Defeat on Washington Column

    "We got comfortable on our bivy ledge, and it was one of the most glorious evenings of my life. I’d stayed at this ledge once previously on a failed attempt of the route, and that night I never quite felt calm and at ease. For whatever reason this night was different. We stared at Half Dome, as it finally got some of the days last rays of sun: gray granite with black water streaks and hints of orange. I had the feeling I was exactly where I was supposed to be. Gene and I were proud, and we were on the heels of success. All we had above us was climbing, and we didn’t have to worry about the pains of hauling.÷

  • HPAmmon

    How Ammon McNeely Made An Unbelievably Fast Return From A Career-Ending Injury

    I stared up at the sandstone walls of the Kingfisher Tower outside of Moab, Utah, and felt sick with anxiety. I could faintly make out the speck of a man on the summit and knew it was Ammon McNeely. He was up there hobbling around on his surgically repaired foot (now laced with so many scars it looked like a relief map of canyon country). He carefully studied the cliff edges and exposure below, in search of the best spot to jump, but the wind was gusting, creating less-than-ideal conditions for flying. Deep down I suspected this would not deter him. “Fuck. Maybe I shouldn’t have helped him get up there,” I thought.

  • HPBlack

    Read This: Benighted In The Black Canyon

    Some walls are better to look at than to climb. The closer we get to the Painted Wall, the uglier it appears. In the Black Canyon guidebook, it is described as an overhanging scree field. In the last ten years I’ve been climbing in the canyon, it is the only wall I’ve regularly heard about sections of climbs falling off the wall. Yes, that’s right, a pitch of the climb literally coming undone from the wall, adding to the scree fields below.

  • HPMentorship

    The Mentorship Gap: What Climbing Gyms Can't Teach You

    The way we learn to climb has evolved. The was we mentor needs to change, too.

  • HPBoltsDanger

    Built to Last? The Hidden Dangers Of Climbing Bolts

    Two climbers headed up a two-pitch sport route on the Fire Wall, above Tonsai Beach on the Phra Nang Peninsula of Thailand. At the two-bolt anchor, the leader pulled up slack to belay his partner, and as an afterthought, he reached up to clip the first bolt of the next pitch as a redirect to belay his partner.