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	<title>ClimbingSporting Life: Let the Right One in</title>
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		<title>Sporting Life: Let the Right One in</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/climber/sporting-life-let-the-right-one-in/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/climber/sporting-life-let-the-right-one-in/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 May 2012 06:37:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Matt Samet</dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[We&#8217;ve all been there: on the road broke, relying on other climbers to provide a safe haven (read: couch) for a night or two… or 57. I did most of my dirtbagging in my teens and 20s, when I lived on $150 a month, most of which went toward gas money for the next crag. [...]]]></description>
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<p>		  			  		  <div id="caption_1340" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 385px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Dirbag-Illo_12860.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Dirtbag-Illo-375_12858.jpg" height="322"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Illustration by Jamie Givens</p></div>
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<p><b>We&#8217;ve all been there: on the road broke, relying on other climbers to provide a safe   haven (read: couch) for a night or two… or 57. </b>I did most of my dirtbagging in my teens   and 20s, when I lived on $150 a month, most of which went toward gas money for the   next crag. My cut-rate tent leaked, I slept in a double layer of threadbare, $30 Coleman   sleeping bags, subsisted on Ramen noodles and lemon-crème cookies, and my Therm-a-   Rest deflated about 10 minutes after I lay on it (but I was too penurious to buy a patch   kit). I could only afford to shower once a week. When I was “flush,” I’d buy a loaf of   French bread, store-brand Dijon mustard, and a box of crackers, and then make “Cheez-It   hoagies.” Otherwise, my time and energy went toward finding free places to camp and   soft-tick 5.13s—as with every dirtbag, climbing was all that mattered.   </p>
<p>Which made it so refreshing when fellow climbers opened their doors to me and   whatever friend I traveled with. Suddenly we were ushered from America’s hobo fringes   back into the real world, where people changed clothes every day, ate off tableware,   slept in beds, held jobs, and enjoyed cable television! Not surprisingly, we were loath to   leave such digs, but like fi sh, dirtbag guests have a brief shelf life—I’m sure I overstayed   a welcome or two. I’d do my best to be helpful and unobtrusive, washing the dishes, buying   what communal groceries I could, caching my bedroll and duffel bag each morning   in whatever room I stunk up. But I imagine I was mainly a nuisance, like most penniless,   self-obsessed, 20-something sport wankers.   </p>
<p>So it was, later in life, that I vowed to, in turn, offer the hospitality that is our common   currency: “Stay with me and you can return the favor when I visit your neck of the   woods” is the unspoken etiquette. It’s almost always worked out, and while I wouldn’t say   that I’ve had any bad guests, I have had lingerers. A few years back, we had “Pierre,” who   was to stay a month. A friend had hooked him up with us, saying Pierre would be happy   to cook and clean in exchange for room and board. However, the cooking and cleaning   stopped after only a few nights, and Pierre commandeered our laptop and seemed reluctant to relinquish it. (When he left, we   discovered it was loaded with salacious   photos of him and a girl French-kissing.)   When I’d loan him my car so he could go   climbing, he’d never fill the tank by way of   thanks. And his visit somehow stretched   to two months and change.   </p>
<p>I finally realized I’d had enough one   day when we—Pierre, I, and another   friend—headed to Boulder Canyon so   I could belay Pierre on a project he’d   bolted with my drill. The line started with   15 feet of slippery 5.10a crack; it also   began on a six-foot-wide ledge 50 feet   above the creek.   </p>
<p>“Hey, Pierre, maybe you should place   a cam,” I prodded him, slapping the Grigri   on the rope.   </p>
<p>“Eeetz fi ne,” he said. “I naaayver fall   on zees peez-eezee crack.”   </p>
<p>(I know: you saw this coming a mile   away, right? Why didn’t I build my own   anchor or insist on that piece?)   </p>
<p>Overcome by redpoint jitters, Pierre   slipped from his jams eight feet up and   rocketed toward the abyss. Picturing us   both dragged to our deaths, I somehow   snatched Pierre—who stood a good eight   inches taller than me—while my buddy   cushioned his fall into the rocks. Pierre   stood up, unscathed, dusted off his MC   Hammer Euro-pants, recomposed himself,   and made to start up again.   </p>
<p>“Pierre, a cam this time,” I said.   “Please.”   </p>
<p>“No. Eet eez no problem,” he said. “I   vas just shaky zat time.”   </p>
<p>“OK then,” I said, taking the Grigri off   the rope. “Pierre: You’re not on belay until   you clip the bolt.”   </p>
<p>And so it went, me belaying and   Pierre not sending and growing ever more   frustrated until, by the time we finished   up at another cliff, he’d gone into a   tailspin, especially after I onsighted some   scruffy 5.11 on which he had to hang. As I traversed the base of the wall, getting in   a final pump, Pierre said, “Enough of zees   climbing. Now vee go home.”   </p>
<p>Wait a minute—what? I had hosted the   guy, loaned him my drill, driven him to the   cliff, belayed him, and now I just wanted to   get in a little rock time, and he was getting   moody? It hit me then: Pierre had overstayed   his welcome, but I, having invited   him in, had no gentle means of eviction.   </p>
<p>Which led me to wonder: Is it possible   to remove an embedded dirtbag without   violating our tribe’s unspoken etiquette?   Well, as with termites and bedbugs,   dirtbags are a devilish infestation, though   I have discovered one possible remedy:   psychological warfare. Depending on the   obstinacy of your intruder, your house   could be dirtbag free after any single step   in this process, though if your problem   isn’t rectified by Step Four, you’ll need   to resort to Direct Action Plans A and B,   detailed below. And if those fail? Well, then   you yourself must move out—to go live   with climber friends, of course.</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">STEP ONE</font></b>   <br />  <b>Solicit a Financial Contribution</b>   <br />  The filthiest word a dirtbag ever did   hear is “money”—it’s like his kryptonite,   because “m-o-n-e-y” conjures up having   to get a “j-o-b,” which might interfere with   “s-i-c-k r-e-d-p-o-i-n-t-s” and “r-e-s-t d-ay   b-l-o-g-g-i-n-g.” I recommend going for   the jugular: “Hey, man, you’ve been here a   while, and we were hoping you could chip   in for the bills.” Pretty straightforward,   right? Usually this is enough to send all   but the hardiest freeloaders packing,   though if you meet pushback you could try   back-dating the bills to when your visitor   first appeared on the doorstep, helpless as   an abandoned newborn.</p>
<p><b><font size="2">STEP TWO</font></b>   <br />  <b>Proselytize</b>   <br />  Dirtbags can’t relate to anything outside   climbing and resting for climbing. The   world could have been atom-bombed   flat around them, and there they’d sit   watching Gossip Girl reruns and filing   calluses while they pantomime moronic   beta and fart up your couch. To put them   at dis-ease, I recommend strewing cultish   eschatological pamphlets across the   coffee table, then muting the television,   looking your dirtbag in the eye, and saying,   “Winkler, can we talk about [Jesus,   Satan, Buddha, Jehovah, Lord Xenu, the   Dark Overlord Pazuzu, Cthulu, Reverend   Sun Myung Moon, the Angel Moroni, etc.],   because I feel like you’re living a life that   is spiritually empty, and 2012 will soon be   upon us.” Watch the dirtbag’s jaw drop   when he must stop visualizing the fifth   deadpoint crux on a power-endurance   5.13d to listen to this heavy shit that   you’re laying down.</p>
<p><b><font size="2">STEP THREE</font></b>   <b><br />  Host Swingers’ Parties</b>   <br />  This approach takes an open mind (among   other “open” things), and you do run   the risk that your invader is either A) a   swinger himself, or B) so randy and morally ambivalent that he’ll swing with the best of them. To do it right, make sure your swingers fit the off-putting, sexcreeper mold: hairy, flabby, orange-hued middle-aged exhibitionists that no sane person would tangle with. While it will be scary to invite them into your home to rut like rabbits, they probably aren’t much worse than dirtbags.</p>
<p><b><font size="2">STEP FOUR</font></b>   <b><br />  Eliminate all the Amenities/Simulate   the Outdoors</b>   <br />  Like moths to the flame, dirtbags are drawn   to your home’s finer things: hot running   water, soft bed or couch, a proper kitchen,   laundry machines, cable television, your   girlfriend, etc. But take all these away, and   suddenly it’s not looking so sweet. I recommend   doing this in stages. Day One: “Say,   Winkler, the hot-water heater broke, so no   showers today.” Day Two: “Bad news, Winkler:   I’m on a tight budget and had to shut   off the cable.” Day Three: “I turned off the   electricity and put all the appliances in the   garage because we’re Amish.” And so on. If it’s still not working, simulate the full-ghetto   camping experience by spritzing sand and   cold water onto the dirtbag’s face while   he sleeps, then asking him to dig a hole in   the yard when he needs to drop a deuce   (“because the pipes are broken”).  </p>
<p><b><font size="2">DIRECT ACTION</font></b>   <br />  Still got “ol’ Stinky” anchoring your   couch? Then it’s time to stop hintin’ and   start evictin’.  </p>
<p><b><font size="2">PLAN A</font></b>   <b><br />  Foist the Dirtbag on Unsuspecting Victims</b>   <br />  You can go about this two ways, which   are not mutually exclusive: One, call up   friends (or, better yet, enemies) and plead   that they take over hosting duties. Or, two,   convince your guest that the amenities   are even better elsewhere: the hot water hotter, refrigerator way more stocked, flatscreen   TV even bigger, the host’s girlfriend   imminently more corruptible, etc.  </p>
<p><b><font size="2">PLAN B</font></b>   <b><br />  Call the Police/Social Services</b>   <br />  If all else fails, call the Man. Simply tell the   authorities that some raving, psychotic,   homeless amnesiac showed up on your   doorstep weeks ago rambling about “beta”   and “redpoint cruxes” and “dab-knee   scums” and “gastons” and “consensus   V grades,” and that despite your good   Samaritan efforts you’ve not been able to   restore him to sanity.  </p>
<p><i>Matt Samet is the best houseguest ever.   Just ask the dozens of former hosts who’ve   kicked him to the curb.</i></p>
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