Cochise Stronghold 411

By Fitz Cahall

Getting There: The Dragoon Mountains are about 1.5 hours southeast of Tucson. To reach the West Stronghold and Sheepshead Dome, take I-10 to Benson, and then Hwy 80 south. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road (first left after milepost 315) and follow this dirt road toward the formations and camping.

To reach the East Stronghold, take I-10 to exit 318 onto Arizona Hwy 191. Pass through Dragoon and continue for 7.5 miles before turning right onto Stronghold Road. Follow signs to the campground.

Season: September to May. The Rockfellow Group (6,000 feet) can be brutally cold in winter, but the sun-soaked lower-elevation cliffs offer perfect winter cragging. Late autumn is best, with temperatures in the mid-60s to -70s, and cold nights.

Rack: Most multi-pitch routes require about a dozen quickdraws, a light rack of cams, and five to 10 long runners for slinging chickenheads.

Closures: From March 1 to June 30, the Rockfellow Group (including End Pinnacle) and What’s My Line Dome are closed for nesting birds. Hundreds of other routes remain unaffected, though.

Camping: You’ll find myriad small, undeveloped free sites on the West Stronghold, especially near the Isle of You. In the East Stronghold, the Forest Service maintains a pleasant, oak-shaded campground ($10 per night) that includes fire rings, picnic tables, and toilets (but no water). If you’re solo, this is your best bet for finding partners. Free undeveloped camping can also be found along the Forest Service roads at Entrance Dome.