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In 2009 Climbing's ARI program continues at a crag near you!
Contact kevin.riley@skrammedia.com for more information |
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 ARI - The North Face
The ARI is made possible by generous support from The North Face. In 2003 Climbing, with support from The North Face, launched the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) to address the nationwide problem of worn out and inappropriate fixed hardware at heavily used crags. The North Face®, a subsidiary of VF Corp., was founded in 1966 and opened its first retail store in 1968. Headquartered in San Leandro, California, the company offers the most technically advanced products in the market to accomplished climbers, mountaineers, extreme skiers, and explorers.  ARI - Petzl
Special thanks to the generous support from Petzl. John Evans, Marketing Director at Petzl says of the ARI, "Replacing 300 sets of anchors is no small feat. Kudos to Climbing for organizing this important initiative."  ARI Upgraded Route Master list
382 Routes UPGRADED - MASTER LIST Updated 11/13/09 - Over 1000 bolts have been replaced on selected high-traffic routes at major crags across the country. The anchor work receiving Climbing's ARI treatment was preformed by some of the climbing communities most experienced equippers.  TOD ANDERSON - The Front Range anti-slacker
TOD ANDERSON, 49, is originally from Normal, Illinois, but a penchant for the abnormal (vertical) landed him in Golden, Colorado, where he labors to keep the crags safe when not managing multistate Medicare/Medicaid for Health and Human Services. If you’ve climbed at Clear Creek, Devil’s Head, or Boulder Canyon, you’ve likely clipped some of Anderson’s bolts or threaded his newly refurbished top anchors.  BOB GAINES - 500 first ascents and counting...
BOB GAINES, 49 AND A LIFER at Joshua Tree, has authored 500- plus Cali climbs. Raised with the state’s minimalist ethic, Gaines knows well the challenges of bolting — and, running his guide service (verticaladventures.com), is also keenly aware of the need for safe crags.  September 2009 - Freemont Canyon Wyoming Upgrade
Micah Rush and Eric Christensen have updated a whopping 20 routes on the rosy-colored granite of Wyoming's Freemont Canyon in early September with brand new stainless steel gear courtesy of Climbing's Anchor Replacement Initiative made possible by The North Face and Petzl.  Anchor Upgrade in White Rock, New Mexico
Report and photos by Jason Halladay - I had received some hardware from the ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative) to be used to replace old and worn anchors. I had hardware for four anchors and believed that the anchors at Gallows Edge (on the basalt cliffs below White Rock, NM) could benefit from an upgrade. Gallows Edge has a number of well-protected moderate sport climbs on great rock and is a natural first choice location for new climbers looking to gain some leading experience. I replaced the anchor hardware on Pejos Route, Once Were Warriors, Princess Buttercup and Planet of the Apes. I only had to drill one new hole, on Princess Buttercup, as the bolts in situ were good, stainless steel bolts.  BLAKE BOWLING - "Team Suck's" Red River Gorge caretaker
Not everyone would be proud to be part of “Team Suck,” but Blake Bowling, 33, is glad he joined. Team Suck (teamsuckclimbing.com) comprises Bowling and a crew of Red River Gorge, Kentucky, aficionados who’ve worked the last eight years upgrading spinning/rusty hardware on the crags’ porous, often-wet, but heavenly Corbin sandstone.  Anchor Replacement in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado
On Friday, July 31, 2009, I went with Madaleine Sorkin to help her finish up the bolt-replacement work on the vintage sport route Hairstyles and Attitudes (aka Space Invaders II), a Dan Michael and Roger Briggs 1980s classic on the top headwall of the Bastille, Eldorado Canyon. I’ve never had a chance to do the route, but Madaleine said it was her favorite sport route in Eldorado, which is why she’d “adopted” it for the bolt work. If you haven’t seen the line, it climbs a flat, slightly overhanging panel of rock left of Outer Space, in a wild, exposed position that finishes a good 300 feet above the ground. This also makes it a bit of a pain to get to and for doing bolt work.  Anchor Replacement in Bear Canyon, Boulder Colorado - July 2009
Report and photos by Kevin Riley and Matt Samet - On July 15, Matt Samet and I trudged up to the back of Bear Canyon to upgrade three sport climbs. The first two routes we replaced were Megasaurus (5.10d) and Liquid Crystal (5.11c), in the Bedrock area, aka the South Ridge. The last route we maintained was a spicy 5.9+ R route called Thought Control at the Stonehenge area. It’s also in Bear Canyon, right above the creekbed.  Anchor Work in Colorado's Flatirons - July 2009
On July 11, I upgraded all 8 protection bolts and anchor bolts with Anchor Replacement Initiative hardware on the old-school 5.11d sport route Whipping Post, on the Slab, Fern Canyon, Flatirons, Colorado. The anchors now have stainless-steel ring-and-chain set-ups. All bolts are 1/2" by 2.75" stainless. Old bolts removed and holes camo'ed.  Anchor Upgrade at Puoux, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado
Spring 2009 - The always in season, roadside sport-crag - the Puoux - in Glenwood Canyon, got a major upgrade recently with efforts from Carbondale climber Michael Schneiter. The Long Haul, Urban Cowboy, Two Tone, Kor's Corner, Hard Kor, Road Runner, and Roadside Attraction were carefully upgraded with brand new stainless steel hardware. It's worth noting that Schneiter spent 10+ hours on just one of these routes because he was trying to reuse old holes as much as possible.  Fisher Towers' Cottontail Goes Free
Photos by Rob Pizem and Jason Haas - Jason Haas and Rob Pizem have free-climbed every pitch of West Side Story on 800-foot Cottontail tower in Utah’s Fisher Towers. Despite a reputation for fairly stout aid climbing (5.9 C3), this is the easiest route on the most serious of the Fishers’ four main towers. The route required three 5.12 pitches and two broken bones to free-climb. Haas and Pizem replaced about a dozen ancient protection bolts on the route, using gear from the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Read More.  2009 Anchor Replacement in Colorado
Anchor replacement by Tod Anderson - Seizing an opportunity during the warm weather at the end of Januaury 2009 and before the bird closures take effect I fixed the anchor at the top of the first pitch on Electricity in Boulder Canyon – Bitty Buttress. I was up on the route in November and the webbing was so manky that I wouldn’t even rap off of it. So, I grabbed what was available and made it a bit better at the time, which is what I was able to get the before photo of in the attachment. Now, all that is fixed with nice ARI hardware that will hold up for a long time. The bolts in place looked to be in pretty good condition to me, so I didn’t mess with those.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2009
Click here for more information on the program and how to become a sanctioned equipper. Since its launch in 2003, the program continues to be a great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes.  Fall 2008 Anchor Replacement in Colorado
Photos of Matt Samet upgrading the hardware on The Perfect Kiss (5.11d), the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain, the Flatirons; Old and new anchor gear on the Eiffel Tower, Little Eiger, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado by Tod Anderson; and Paul Glover installing two ARI bolts and anchors atop Bidoigt (5.10a), Der Freischutz, Dinosaur Mountain, Flatirons, above Boulder.  2008 Rifle Clean Up Recap
The organizers of the 2008 Rifle Clean Up that took place Saturday, September 6th would like to say THANK YOU! to our sponsors, supporters, and helpers. With everyone's help we were able to make this the most productive clean-up event ever.  ARI Gallery - July 2008
Photos by Matt Samet, Eric Odenthal, Dan Levison and Justin Roth - Thanks to the efforts of Climbing Magazine's expert equippers a few more classics have been upgraded like: Puppy Love, on Potash Road, Moab, Utah; near Boulder, Colorado old anchors and a few bolts have been replaced on April Fools, Cornucopia, and Discipline on Dinosaur Mountain; Undertow, on The Slab in Fern Canyon and Verve in Boulder Canyon.  ARI - Flatirons Anchor Work
Photos by Ted Lanzano and Justin Rooth - Anchor replacement by Kristin Bjornsen, Ted Lanzano, Stan Lanzano and Matt Samet on the Dinosaur Mountain classics Back in Slacks and Power Bulge, in the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado. Thanks also to the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks. Check out the ARI Upgraded Route Master list and see what routes in Colorado have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI.  ARI Work in Kootenai Canyon, MT
Photos of Anchor Replacement work in Montana's Kootenai Canyon by Levi Parchen and Dean Towarnicki. Located outside Stevensville, MT (south of Missoula) this Bitterroot Valley granite crag hosts year round climbing on sport and trad routes.  ARI Program Featured in Arizona Newspapers
In November, 2007 local volunteer Jerry Cagle recently replaced the bolts on Arizona's famousWhat's My Line? on Cochise Dome. "ARI made it possible to realize that goal," said Cagle, who was able to upgrade a climb of special significance to him and says he is grateful for the donations and support of The North Face and Petzl. The Anchor Replacement Initiative, a program dedicated to the replacement of worn and inadequate fixed anchors at popular climbing areas across the country, has contributed to Arizona's Cochise Stronghold.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2008
Click here for more information on the program and how to become a sanctioned equipper. Since its launch in 2003, the program continues to be a great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes.  Anchor Replacement in Cochise Stronghold, AZ
Photos by Jerry Cagle and Larry Scritchfield - Located in the Southern Arizona's Dragoon Mountains, What's My Line 5.6 AO R, 3 pitches, 400 feet on Cochise Dome is one of the classic lines everyone does. Thanks Jerry and Larry for taking the time to replace the old anchors on this route and special thanks to The North Face and Petzl for making the ARI possible.  ARI - Farley Ledge Photos
Photos by Jeff Squire and Jeremy Felson — President of the Western Mass Climbers Coalition. All of these are 2007 shots at Farley Ledge. Many of the anchors we have replaced have been either scary ones or ones chopped/smashed by Ken Nichols. Thanks to the ARI, most of these anchors have been replaced. Farley Ledge is often billed as the best crag between the Gunks and Rumney. It is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering, top roping and even multi-pitch climbing. Located only 15 min from Greenfield, 30 min from the college towns of Amherst & Northampton.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2007
The ARI program is great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes. |
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