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 Anchor Work in Colorado's Flatirons - July 2009
On July 11, I upgraded all 8 protection bolts and anchor bolts with Anchor Replacement Initiative hardware on the old-school 5.11d sport route Whipping Post, on the Slab, Fern Canyon, Flatirons, Colorado. The anchors now have stainless-steel ring-and-chain set-ups. All bolts are 1/2" by 2.75" stainless. Old bolts removed and holes camo'ed.  Anchor Upgrade at Puoux, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado
Spring 2009 - The always in season, roadside sport-crag - the Puoux - in Glenwood Canyon, got a major upgrade recently with efforts from Carbondale climber Michael Schneiter. The Long Haul, Urban Cowboy, Two Tone, Kor's Corner, Hard Kor, Road Runner, and Roadside Attraction were carefully upgraded with brand new stainless steel hardware. It's worth noting that Schneiter spent 10+ hours on just one of these routes because he was trying to reuse old holes as much as possible.  Fisher Towers' Cottontail Goes Free
Photos by Rob Pizem and Jason Haas - Jason Haas and Rob Pizem have free-climbed every pitch of West Side Story on 800-foot Cottontail tower in Utah’s Fisher Towers. Despite a reputation for fairly stout aid climbing (5.9 C3), this is the easiest route on the most serious of the Fishers’ four main towers. The route required three 5.12 pitches and two broken bones to free-climb. Haas and Pizem replaced about a dozen ancient protection bolts on the route, using gear from the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Read More.  2009 Anchor Replacement in Colorado
Anchor replacement by Tod Anderson - Seizing an opportunity during the warm weather at the end of Januaury 2009 and before the bird closures take effect I fixed the anchor at the top of the first pitch on Electricity in Boulder Canyon – Bitty Buttress. I was up on the route in November and the webbing was so manky that I wouldn’t even rap off of it. So, I grabbed what was available and made it a bit better at the time, which is what I was able to get the before photo of in the attachment. Now, all that is fixed with nice ARI hardware that will hold up for a long time. The bolts in place looked to be in pretty good condition to me, so I didn’t mess with those.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2009
Click here for more information on the program and how to become a sanctioned equipper. Since its launch in 2003, the program continues to be a great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes.  Fall 2008 Anchor Replacement in Colorado
Photos of Matt Samet upgrading the hardware on The Perfect Kiss (5.11d), the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain, the Flatirons; Old and new anchor gear on the Eiffel Tower, Little Eiger, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado by Tod Anderson; and Paul Glover installing two ARI bolts and anchors atop Bidoigt (5.10a), Der Freischutz, Dinosaur Mountain, Flatirons, above Boulder.  2008 Rifle Clean Up Recap
The organizers of the 2008 Rifle Clean Up that took place Saturday, September 6th would like to say THANK YOU! to our sponsors, supporters, and helpers. With everyone's help we were able to make this the most productive clean-up event ever.  ARI Gallery - July 2008
Photos by Matt Samet, Eric Odenthal, Dan Levison and Justin Roth - Thanks to the efforts of Climbing Magazine's expert equippers a few more classics have been upgraded like: Puppy Love, on Potash Road, Moab, Utah; near Boulder, Colorado old anchors and a few bolts have been replaced on April Fools, Cornucopia, and Discipline on Dinosaur Mountain; Undertow, on The Slab in Fern Canyon and Verve in Boulder Canyon.  ARI - Flatirons Anchor Work
Photos by Ted Lanzano and Justin Rooth - Anchor replacement by Kristin Bjornsen, Ted Lanzano, Stan Lanzano and Matt Samet on the Dinosaur Mountain classics Back in Slacks and Power Bulge, in the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado. Thanks also to the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks. Check out the ARI Upgraded Route Master list and see what routes in Colorado have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI.  ARI Work in Kootenai Canyon, MT
Photos of Anchor Replacement work in Montana's Kootenai Canyon by Levi Parchen and Dean Towarnicki. Located outside Stevensville, MT (south of Missoula) this Bitterroot Valley granite crag hosts year round climbing on sport and trad routes.  ARI Program Featured in Arizona Newspapers
In November, 2007 local volunteer Jerry Cagle recently replaced the bolts on Arizona's famousWhat's My Line? on Cochise Dome. "ARI made it possible to realize that goal," said Cagle, who was able to upgrade a climb of special significance to him and says he is grateful for the donations and support of The North Face and Petzl. The Anchor Replacement Initiative, a program dedicated to the replacement of worn and inadequate fixed anchors at popular climbing areas across the country, has contributed to Arizona's Cochise Stronghold.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2008
Click here for more information on the program and how to become a sanctioned equipper. Since its launch in 2003, the program continues to be a great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes.  Anchor Replacement in Cochise Stronghold, AZ
Photos by Jerry Cagle and Larry Scritchfield - Located in the Southern Arizona's Dragoon Mountains, What's My Line 5.6 AO R, 3 pitches, 400 feet on Cochise Dome is one of the classic lines everyone does. Thanks Jerry and Larry for taking the time to replace the old anchors on this route and special thanks to The North Face and Petzl for making the ARI possible.  ARI - Farley Ledge Photos
Photos by Jeff Squire and Jeremy Felson — President of the Western Mass Climbers Coalition. All of these are 2007 shots at Farley Ledge. Many of the anchors we have replaced have been either scary ones or ones chopped/smashed by Ken Nichols. Thanks to the ARI, most of these anchors have been replaced. Farley Ledge is often billed as the best crag between the Gunks and Rumney. It is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering, top roping and even multi-pitch climbing. Located only 15 min from Greenfield, 30 min from the college towns of Amherst & Northampton.  Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2007
The ARI program is great way for Climbing Magazine along with its generous supporters, The North Face and Petzl to give something tangible back to the climbing community. As an experienced climber and developer you understand the seriousness and importance of the work you are applying to do. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers experience and representation of their respective climbing communities best wishes.  Climbing's ARI Volunteers
Replacing anchors is HARD work and it takes lots of time to do it correctly! Climbing's Anchor Replacement Initiative could NOT be made possible without the hundreds man-hours our volunteers have donated to making our crags a safe place. Find out what routes in Arizona have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI See what routes have been upgraded in California courtesy of the ARI. Updated 10/15/08 See what routes in Colorado have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Updated 1/18/10 See what routes in Nevada have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Updated 11/13/09 See what routes in North Carolina have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Updated 12/15/09 See what routes in Idaho have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Find out what routes in Kentucky have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Find out what routes in Minnesota have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Find out what routes in Montana have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. |
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