Photos by Matt Samet, Eric Odenthal, Dan Levison and Justin Roth - Thanks to the efforts of Climbing Magazine's expert equippers a few more classics have been upgraded like: Puppy Love, on Potash Road, Moab, Utah; near Boulder, Colorado old anchors and a few bolts have been replaced on April Fools, Cornucopia, and Discipline on Dinosaur Mountain; Undertow, on The Slab in Fern Canyon and Verve in Boulder Canyon.
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Went up to Verve today [July 15th, 2008] and did the replacement with Roy Barnes. It went great. I lead up Cosmosis, fixed a static line on Verve, drilled the 4 new bolts, then sawed off the 3 mammut ring bolts (flush to the rock), and unscrewed the 8mm Mammut Allen bolt (scary, rusty and short, see photos). I then jugged back up and patched the old holes (you can't even tell)! Photos by Dan Levison
Before shot - Anchor work on Puppy Love 5.9R, Potash Road, Wallstreet, Moab, Utah. Photos by Eric Odenthal
After shot - Anchor work on Puppy Love 5.9R, Potash Road, Wallstreet, Moab, Utah. Photos by Eric Odenthal
Clyde and Owen Silver below Undertow, classic 5.12b sport route on The Slab, Fern Canyon. We filled Clyde's doggie pack with bolts to slow him down a little going up the hill.
Classic 5.13a on Dinosaur Mountain, the Box, now retrofitted with all 1/2-inch stainless ARI hardware.
Excellent 5.12b right of Cornucopia showing a new bolt and patched, camo'ed old hole.
An old 3/8-inch bolt with SMC hanger next to the new ARI hardware, on Undertow
Old hardware pulled from the rock on Dinosaur Mountain. Photo by Justin Roth
Owen Silver helped with the route that day - Undertow. Here he's trying to get out the old bolts. It took three trips up there and a trip to the hardware store to find the right socket head and biggest socket bar, to get out the old bolts, as they had rusted shut, in place.
Old hardware pulled from the rock on Dinosaur Mountain. Photo by Justin Roth
Old hardware pulled from the rock on Dinosaur Mountain. Photo by Justin Roth
Ted Lanzano stick-clipped his way up Discipline in a late-spring snowstorm so we could do the work on that and Cornucopia that day. The sun came out a bit, eventually.
