Climbing
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Kalymnos Rock Climbing Festival 2009: Event Recap


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On following days, the program included climbing during the day and various events in the evening.

An Open Bouldering and Dyno competition was organized on Saturday evening, May 23rd, at the main square of Pothia port. The problems were created by George Kopalides and Zafiris Kamaropoulos. The enthusiastic audience consisted mostly of young Kalymnians, whose cheers went up a notch when the local climbers Antonis Kokkinos and Lucas Dourdourekas competed, or when pretty girls walked by.

Winners by category were:

  • Boudering / Men: Dave Garden (UK)
  • Bouldering / Women: Charlotte Garden (UK)
  • Dyno / Men: Christos Tsoutsias (GR)
  • Dyno / Women: Charlotte Garden (UK)

On Sunday evening, May 24th, Claude Remy presented a very interesting photo archive from all his years on the island in his clever, humorous style. He and his brothers were given an honorary plaque and other memorabilia by the mayor as thanks for their extensive contribution in developing Kalymnos climbing. On Monday evening, May 25th, the Festival’s closing party was hosted by club LOCA; the winning climbing party of the Free Ride Rally, Konstantinos Vrochidis and Dimitris Sparis, was awarded. 11 parties participated in the Free Ride Rally, where all day Sunday they climbed as many routes as possible. Each route was credited certain points depending on grade, with the winning party being the one accumulating the most points.


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But the pure soul of the Festival was the phenomenal Adam Ondra. Despite his 16 years of age, he has already taken sport climbing to a new dimension. In Kalymnos we were awestruck by his ability, speed and deep passion for climbing. Adam seems to have this effect even on the specialists, as Dani Andrada and Chris Sharma speechlessly watched him breeze through the 9a’s in Spain last spring, prompting Chris to declare that he now feels “like an amateur!”. Enough said— see for yourself what Adam accomplished during his 6 days in Kalymnos, with his own comments taken from his

Adam Ondra's 8a.nu scorecard from 6 days in Kalymnos: 

22/05/ 2009

  • Gaia 8b - Odyssey - ONSIGHT
  • Gora guta gutarak 8c(+) Odyssey: hard crux on the start followed by easier but delicate climbing, figured out the sequence on the ground, then just killed it without any stop for thinking, for me 8c, not 8c+ - ONSIGHT 

23/05/2009

24/05/ 2009 - An “active” rest day of Adam, before feel strong again to slash his project:

25/05/ 2009

  • Los Revolucionarios 9a, Odyssey, 6 tries, four days, big moves on strange holds, depends on conditions and your height - FIRST ASCENT.
  • Jaws 8c 50m, Sikati cave, an adventure! - FLASH
  • Les Arts du Vide 8b, Sikati cave - FLASH 

26/05/2009

  • DNA extension 8a+, Grande Grotta - ONSIGHT
  • Titantrope 8c+, Spartan Wall, well, for me it was more like 8c, but I do not know if I am so strong or the grades are just easy. But considering the fact that master of this crimpy style Dave Graham suggested 8c+, I keep it like this... - SECOND GO
  • Inshallah 8c+, North Cape, almost on-sight, in the second go did it with big fight during amazing sunset - SECOND GO

27/05/2009

Let it be known that the route Los Revolucionários (9a) 30m is the hardest route in Kalymnos to-date and the first route of this grade in Greece. It was equipped by this writer in June 2007 with the help of Christos Daniel. After Adam climbed it, he moved on to Los Kukos (8c) and just barely missed the onsight (rare, but it happens!).

Immediately after that, we sprinted to Sikati cave in the middle of the scorching hot afternoon. There, he surprised us yet again: not only did he climb Jaws (8c) 50m on his first attempt, but he also placed the draws – just another sign of his superior ability. In this writer’s opinion, Adam is already two steps ahead and for him, 9c or 10a climbs are only a matter of time and patience (to commit more to working a certain route).

For the record, Jaws was the "Ultimate Route" in Petzl’s 2006 Kalymnos RocTrip; the stars of that event all tried it for a day, and finally only Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada and Steve McClure redpointed it on their third attempts, with long draws already in place. Because Adam had once watched the video from that Roctrip, he considered his own ascent to be flash, not onsight. He did the same with Les Arts du Vide (8b), his ‘cool down’ route!

As for Gora Guta Gutarak (8c+), it was first redpointed in May 2007 by Nico Favresse and the grade was confirmed by Steve McClure the following September. Adam onsighted it by also placing the quickdraws – and yet, seemingly oblivious to the enormity of the task, he suggested downgrading it to 8c because ‘it felt easy’… His first 9a onsight is sure to follow soon. 



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