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Timy Fairfield
World Cup Winner, Professional Climber, Route-Setter, Coach; Albuquerque, New Mexico - If you've seen Timy Fairfield, 40, climb, you know he has the preternatural fluidity that signals an evolved grimpeur. Fairfield, in the late 1990s, became one of the early Americans to immerse himself in World Cup culture, entering 100 international events.
The Guatemalan - Gabriel Moch’s North American Boulderering Journey
At 23 years old Gabriel Moch has reached an impressive level as the second Latin American climber to send The Mandala (V12) at the Buttermilk Boulders, near Bishop California. Moch was born in Guatemala, raised in Brazil and began climbing at the age of ripe age 16. After only two years on the rock he sent Morfina (5.13a) at Cerra do Cipo, in Brazil and helped develop a bouldering area near Sao Paulo called Valinhos with over 300 problems varying from V0-V10 where he made the first ascent of many of them.
STEVE SWENSON
Alpinist, Engineer, Family Man, Free Spirit, President of the American Alpine Club; Seattle, Washington - Steve Swenson, 55, is the quintessential Northwest hardman. His climbing career spans four decades and includes the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981; the FA of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup, in Nepal, in 1989; and the FA of the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat, in 2004.
The Phil Schaal Interview
By Caroline Treadway (aka C-Note) courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Phil Schaal’s been killing it recently. In the past year alone, this Connecticut climber has ticked 15 V13s, including some rare repeats of hard East Coast lines The Book of Bitter Aspects (V13) in Bradley, Conn., Agent Orange (V13) in the Gunks, and the Chelsea Smile (V13), Ty Landman’s new sit start to Divine Providence in Lincoln Woods.
Tom Frost: The Full Perspective Interview
Yosemite big-wall first ascentionist, gear inventor, photographer; Oakdale, California - In the Yosemite annals, Tom Frost, 72, of Oakdale, California, looms large. When El Capitan was a blank canvas, Frost swung leads on the FAs of two of the world’s finest big walls, the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 C2; Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Frost; 1961) and the North America Wall (VI 5.8 A2; Robbins, Pratt, Frost, Chouinard; 1964).
Everything is Illuminated
Interviews by Matt Samet - “Sleep came easily before the redpoint,” says Shawn Diamond, 26, of his December 28 FA of the hyper-perilous Luminance (V11), a 16-move highball at the Buttermilk, California. “But I could hardly close my eyes the night after, from the adrenaline.” Diamond, a Cali native now in med school at the University of Cornell Weill Medical College in New York City, was spotted (bravely) by Sara Orens and Walker Emerson, the latter tying into an anchor, to keep him and Diamond from plunging 40 feet off the downsloping ledge below the problem.
The Thunder from Down Under
When I first met Chris Webb Parsons, he was just some random climber around a campfire in Australia. It was 2007, and I was camping alone amongst the kangaroos, wallabies, and kookaburras at Stapleton Campground, in the Grampians. Eating sardines in the dark one night, Chris and his mates invited me over to their circle.
Jeremy Collins: The Interview
Interview by Adam Peters /pimpinandcrimpin.com - Chances are, if you’ve picked up a climbing mag in the past ten years or so you have no doubt seen Jeremy Collin’s artwork. Not only does he monopolize the creative genius you see gracing your magazine pages, but he stinking rips too! Haling from Kansas City, this dynamo is a first ascent slayer, grabbing FA’s from Arkansas sandstone to Black Canyon granite.
David Ethan Graham - Professional Climber, Loner Gypsy, Cult-Sci-Fi Fanatic, Laptop Beat Maker, Nocturnal Tweaker; formerly of Portland, Maine
Compiled by Abbey Smith - The hard-climbing icon Dave Graham, 26, is manic, tweaky, and opinionated. He’s also best understood in person and in his element - with friends and at the rocks, where you’ll find him in a hoody and sneakers, waving his gangly arms to pantomime Beta.
Steph Davis: The Interview
By Andrew Tower courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Steph Davis is one radical lady. She has certainly been there and done that. From climbing desert towers to jumping off them to Patagonia alpine to Yosemite big walls she has had a sticky little hand in each and every pot of climbing joy. See Climbing 272, on sale in January 2009, for a Perspective with Steph Davis.
Emily Harrington: The Interview
By Andrew Tower courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Emily Harrington climbs hard inside and out. She’s a comp killin, climbing dynamo and will simply not stop crushing. We did get her to sit down and give us some answers about her life, what she’s doing, and how she might or might not want to be an assassin for the CIA.
Henry Barber - Free-Climbing Pioneer, Free Soloist, Trad Climber, Motivational Speaker, Purist; North Conway, New Hampshire
Born in Boston in 1953, Henry Barber is a prolific first ascentionist, pioneer of clean climbing, and free soloist; in the 1970s, he was perhaps the world’s best free climber, period.
Timmy O'Neill: The Interview
By Andrew Tower (aka Wig) Photos by Caroline Treadway (aka C-Note) / PimpinandCrimpin.com - What I do is interact with humanity through myriad forms of communication both real/in-person and virtual. It's climber/kayaker/mountain biker, meets life-coach, plays mad rock and roll drums, and changes lives through climbing.
Courage on K2: Part 2
As told to: Kristin Bjornsen - These interviews are a continuation of the article “Courage on K2” (No. 270, October 2008), which detailed the events of August 1-2, 2008, when 11 people were killed by icefall, avalanches, falls, and causes unknown on the upper reaches of K2, the world’s second highest mountain.
Courage on K2: Part 3
As told to: Kristin Bjornsen - These interviews are a continuation of the article “Courage on K2” (No. 270, October 2008), which detailed the events of August 1-2, 2008, when 11 people were killed by icefall, avalanches, falls, and causes unknown on the upper reaches of K2, the world’s second highest mountain.
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