Climbing
PERSPECTIVE
Interview with Nicolas Falacci


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Nicolas Falacci on one of the most famous 5.11 roofs in the country, Foops, Gunks, NY. Unfortunately it's been off-limits for many years due to the Skytop climbing ban instituted by the Mohonk Mountain House. Photo courtesy of Nicolas Falacci.

What does the climbing community need to fix?
I think the climbing community has been heading in the right direction once it finally emerged from the disastrous “bolt wars” of the 1980s. With the creation and success of the Access Fund and the emergence of so many local climbing coalitions around the country, I’m not sure there’s anything to be “fixed.” We just need to continue to build on the great work being done. 

Who embodies climbing, as a person?
Dave Graham is so intense and gets so much satisfaction out of climbing — he embodies that zeal and passion I remember having when I first started climbing. His joy for finding cool and challenging moves is infectious.  

If you could go climbing anywhere, where would you go? Why?
If I could go climbing anywhere, first stop would probably be the Gunks. People always talk about the incredibly exposed easy-to-moderate routes there, but the real gems of the Gunks are the 5.10s that blast through huge roofs and multi-tiered overhangs. The number of mega-exposed, mega-classic well-protected 5.10 lines there is just mind-blowing. 


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Nicolas Falacci on the East Buttress of El Cap, Yosemite, CA. Photo courtesy of Nicolas Falacci.

After the Gunks, my next stop would be Australia. I’ve wanted to climb at Mt. Arapiles ever since I first saw photos of the place. The rock is just exquisite. The textures, the colorations, the lines and positions just make it look incredibly enticing. 

How can we improve our sport?
I think climbing can be improved by continuing the development of local climbing advocacy groups and coalitions and by the continued support of the Access Fund. It’s also long overdue that climbing became an Olympic sport.  



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