Matt: Similar genre — bold, runout, steep.
Jim: Oh, it’s going to be hard. I don’t think it is going to happen for a long time. And also Steve House and I were talking about White Horn — when you’re on Emperor Face you’re looking straight across it, this really beautiful, really big face on White Horn. I have never heard of anyone trying it either. I didn’t ask him. But as far as we know, and the bottom line is that there is a lot of rock left to climb.
Matt: Yeah.
Jim: There is stuff for young guns that want to go make their mark. There is stuff to do. White Horn is waiting.
Matt: White Horn is waiting. Why do you think it took so long for this route to be repeated?
Jim: I think you had to be a good climber to repeat it, and there was still enough stuff in the Rockies to climb. So, I think it was like if you are a good climber, and you are going to risk your life to try to do some thing, would you rather do a new route? Or would you rather do a second ascent? It had to go long enough that somebody said OK, I am willing to put that energy into the second ascent, or they thought they were doing a first ascent.
Matt: No one remembers the second-ascent guy.
Jim: Yeah exactly.
Matt: The third-ascent guy, forget it.
Jim: So, that is why I think it took so long. It doesn’t make a difference how many ascents. It is always going to be serious.
Matt: And where do you climbing mostly these days?
Jim: Mostly I sport climb around Boulder. Eldorado, Boulder Rock Club.
Matt: Eldo is known for its sport climbing…
Jim: It’s almost like sport climbs because…
Matt: You’ve got them so dialed by now.
Jim: Yeah when Roger and I go out, Roger racks the rack in the order he is going to put the gear in on the pitch.
Matt: He knows exactly.
Jim: He knows exactly — the Stopper, then the Alien, then the red Camalot.
Matt: 40 years on those routes.
Jim: You start getting them. Oh I better put a sling here because if I don’t, there is going to be rope drag.
Matt: It seems like you guys climb as hard as ever.
Jim: Pretty much, yeah. And Outer Space will always be great, you know, no matter what.
Matt: This is true. I totally agree.
Jim: I think actually it is interesting. I don’t think our climbing ability has really changed in 40 years. The equipment is better, there’s a lot better technique. We are kind of doing the same climbs.
Matt: That’s good. I mean there’s such good climbs… if it’s not broke, I guess why fix it.
Jim: I don’t know how long I’ll be able to climb the Naked Edge. Maybe, I don’t know, maybe longer.