Climbing
PERSPECTIVE
Steve McClure - The Full Interview


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Who embodies climbing, as a person?Lynn Hill, she IS climbing. She has devoted her life to it. She is brilliant at every style; she’s pushed all the boundaries. She can be a ‘lifer’ living in the dirt or a pro with the sponsors.  
 
When was/is climbing's greatest moment?
First ascent of Everest. Lynn Hill on the Nose. Sharma on Realization. There are many great moments, the best defined by the conquering of a challenge that has defeated many. 
 
Have you ever had a climbing partner die on you?
Very nearly. A best mate landed in a heap next to me after ripping all his kit. He was well bashed up, blood all over and bones sticking out. It looked very unlikely, indeed. He’s made a full recovery now, but that shook me up, made my climbing go in a different direction even. You realize you aren’t invincible, but more, you realize how important life is. Life has a lot of risks, and everyone draws their own line. My line moved a bit after that. 
 
Where was your favorite sunset viewed from a cliff?
Every now and again you have ‘a moment’ when everything comes together; the whole world around you fits together perfectly. I can climb for a whole year for just a few instances of this. They stay with me forever afterwards. One of my best climbing experiences this year happened in about half a second, a single move--the crux of an 8c+ I had worked two different ways and then planned on one method.  
It was a really explosive move and part way through I switched plans. I felt like a computer instantly analyzing data and calculating exactly the best course of action. Amazing how such an instant in time can affect you so much. 
A few years ago in Sardinia on a 10-pitch route, I led up the eighth, 7a pitch. The climbing was amazing; perfect rock, perfect holds and friction, not too hard. The sun was setting out to sea and there was a complete cloud inversion only just below my feet with it following me up as I moved. The whole thing was burning red like an immense fire, constantly changing shape and reaching up to my ankles. 
 
Footwork, power, or tenacity – what makes for a good climber?
A good climber is one who can use all the rock offers in the most efficient manner. Footwork, power and tenacity are all essential, but they’re nothing without control.  
 
Best quote from another climber?
“I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord…..” Johnny Dawes describing his ascent of Indian Face, the first E9 in the UK and one of the most important ascents in British climbing history. He has a way of putting into words what we can only feel but never describe. 
 
What are you up to now?
Climbing has been a massive journey for me moving through so many different styles with what I am most psyched for, depending on where I am with my life. Right now I am motivated to be physically and mentally the best I can be. But time is a massive constraint, I have a hyper kid, a ton of different jobs, a house that is falling apart, and a social life I don't want to miss out on! Hard sport also fits in well; it’s a quick fix, really. I think a lot of people, and even climbing itself, are heading the same way. There are fewer 'lifers,' people are so busy all the time. I'm cool, though, because I know it'll come around. In awhile I'll be plodding up 10-pitch 5.11's with no care for fingertip pull-ups and power-endurance training. I reckon I'll climb till I drop.



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