Yosemite big-wall first ascentionist, gear inventor, photographer; Oakdale, California

In the Yosemite annals, Tom Frost, 72, of Oakdale, California, looms large. When El Capitan was a blank canvas, Frost swung leads on the FAs of two of the world’s finest big walls, the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 C2; Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Frost; 1961) and the North America Wall (VI 5.8 A2; Robbins, Pratt, Frost, Chouinard; 1964). Frost has always been a steadfast proponent of clean climbing — his two main partners and life influences were, after all, Robbins and Chouinard.

Through his photography during those early ascents (Frost lugged a Leica up Yosemite’s big walls, producing some of the most iconic climbing shots ever taken), Frost set the highest standard for adventure photographers. In 1972, he worked with Chiounard to invent essential gear like Stoppers and the RURP, forming Great Pacific Ironworks. In 1997, Frost started his Frostworks (frostworksclimbing.com) and is still in business today, making Sentinel Nuts and Power Draws. A new Frost prototype — the Frostworks Catcher, protects the leader if the second falls while the two are simul-climbing. It was inspired by Yuji Hirayama and Han’s Florine’s 2008 Nose speed records. Frost has stayed close to the mountains, with stints in Colorado, Bishop, California, and now on the western slope of the Sierra with his wife of ten years, Joyce.   

Rock presents us with an opportunity to climb. Through our efforts, we learn how to do it. It becomes a team-player relationship. There is great companionship between you and your partners, but you eventually come to realize that the true team relationship is between the climber and the rock.

Tommy [Caldwell], Beth [Rodden], [Jim] Bridwell, [Peter] Croft… They were all at the UIAA conference in Innsbruck**. I got to hang out with these guys for a week. In spite of his hard man image, Bridwell is really a sweetie — as kind a man as I have ever known. (**In 2002 in Innsbruck, Austria, Frost delivered an address — available online at frostworksclimbing.com/innsbruck2002.html — at the International Congress, "Future of Mountain Sports," a gathering of some 100 alpinists assembled for the purposes of completing the Tyrol Declaration on Best Practices in Mountain Sports. The conference was sponsored by the UIAA Mountaineering Commission and the Austrian and German alpine clubs.)

Just before I gave my talk, I got a bit scared. I gave my talk right after Reinhold Messner, who was first. Reinhold, [Sir Christian] Bonnington — they are great speakers and can talk for hours. But when I finished they gave a good standing ovation. It was gratifying because I believe my words helped them decide to not cancel the meeting. There was a contention amongst the various national alpine clubs – some being totally pro-bolting while others desired to preserve a more natural environment. It was a hot situation. In the end a document was produced and I believe some good came of it.