It is interesting to see how similar and how different we are in terms of stewardship and style. Harding vs. Robbins. The truth is, we can do more for the whole world, the universe at large, by conducting our own lives in the best manner we can. Do we live with appreciation or with anger? Appreciation is a natural law. When we live with appreciation for the rock, Mother Nature blesses us with the finest feeling of enjoyment it is possible to have. If we are pissed off we have trouble getting up. There is an opportunity to learn in climbing, and it will extend to the whole world.
We cannot ignore problems. We need to recognize them as opportunity, recognize what is good about living in accordance with nature’s law that will make a difference.
There have been a couple of times while climbing when I said, ‘What am I doing here?!’ But I never had any bad experiences. I liked my companions. I was at home on the wall; I loved wall climbing. When approaching a wall, I never go up without my luggage thinking I will bring it up tomorrow. I never think or talk about going down. I prepare well, know the rocks and myself, stay tuned to the feeling, and know everything will be fine. I love nature and know that my being on the wall is approved and appropriate.
One aspect of a traditional climber he/she has to be experienced and have a spiritual foundation. They have to know things they don’t know. This is absolutely essential. Looking at Ricardo Cassin is like looking at John Bachar. The presence of the man overwhelms you. They know things they don’t know; they are connected all around. There is no other explanation to explain what they did. Even when we were starting up the first Ascent of Salathé Wall, we knew the wall better than most modern climbers do today. From El Cap meadow, we studied the wall for days, the cracks and alternatives on every pitch. When we started up, we knew the rock better than the modern climber with his numbers on a topo. Robbins knew things we didn’t know.
Gifts from the rock are like that from a good marriage. Growth, joy, happiness these all come from the simple harmony of the mechanics of teamwork.
The main attribute of a traditional climber is appreciation.
My list of heroes starts with Robbins. In the early days, he affected my philosophy most. He was a leader of the Golden Age, and on a personal level became a leader of me. I liked why and how he climbed, and I enjoyed climbing with him. The experiences of a lifetime!
Another hero is, of course, Joyce, my wife. I like the way she thinks and does things. She is an inspiration. She has taught me matters of climbing and life that I couldn’t have gotten any other way. The lads in Yosemite who’ve met her know what I am talking about.
Greg Mortenson and Abe Lincoln are heroes for showing that one man can make a difference.
My son Ryan is a great climber. I struggled through 25 or 30 years of marriage, life, and business. One day Ryan said, ‘Dad, lets go climbing.’ The best thing a son ever said to a dad. We did a get-in-shape climb, Eldorado’s Rosy Crucifixion. Ryan led. It was airy and beyond my comfort level, but I lived. Then we bought out Neptune, packed everything into the Porsche and headed for Zion and then Yosemite. The year was 1997; one of my best ever! We tried to get in shape on this and that but failed. Finally, we decided, ‘Let’s just start up the Nose.’ Parties were queued up at the base. Then it began raining and, to our astonishment, we had the Big Stone all to ourselves. Beginner’s luck. Sweet!