 |
|
|
 |
Above & Beyond
Feature articles, stories and trip reports
A collection of climbing stories from climbers around the world. To submit your work, please contact afox@aimmedia.com. |
|||
 Hot Rock Expedition 5: Lukenya and Hell's Gate, Kenya
Kenya is the true cradle of African rock climbing. While American climbers were scaling Yosemite walls in the 1960s and '70s, European ex-patriots were putting up first ascents in Africa on various crags around Nairobi. Our next visit to Kenya was directed toward these well-established climbing areas. Hell's Gate may be the most amazing, since it is also a national park. It is abundant with big herds of zebras and giraffes, while the near Naivasha lake is full of flamingos. Climbing there means a great safari-tour at the same time.  Whipped: Benched - Injury, Drugs, and Other Dirty Secrets
By Majka Burhardt - I'm on drugs. It’s best to get this out in the beginning. This is not by choice. I’d like to say that this would all be more fun if it were by choice — if I were having a Hunter S. Thompson moment in my writing career. But, as you will soon understand, I would make a very pathetic Hunter S. Thompson. Even saying that makes me shudder.  Hot Rock Expedition 4: Uganda Gallery
Photos by Ivana Crone and Roger Buser - The Hot Rock Climbing Expedition continues in Uganda. Follow the Hot Rock crew as they explore up to Class 5 rapids down the Nile, the friendly culture, and granite domes. The climbing in Uganda varies, from multi-pitch to bolted sport to phenomenal bouldering, with everything from slabs to finger cracks to steep traverses.  Hot Rock Climbing Expedition 4: Uganda
Uganda is that lazy-paced, sunny, reggae-filled African country, with that old Bob Marley/Caribbean vibe. The people are super-friendly, laidback, and always smiling and helpful. This is the most relaxed place we have visited so far. Our first stop was at Jinja, an adventure seekers' paradise, with its world’s tallest bangi-jump and some of the planet’s gnarliest kayaking, and even rafting on class 5 rapids.  Hot Rock Climbing Expedition 3: Kenya
Entering Kenya feels like entering a typical African postcard. Zebras and giraffes grazed on sweeping grassy plains shadowed by aged sycamore trees, with herds of wild elephants majestically crossing over the horizon. The lakeshores are full of birds often bigger than the mammals. It is like visiting a slightly evolved Jurassic Park.  Brilliance from the Dark Continent
Walking to school in the frigid December Minnesota air, bundled from head to toe in various layers of insulation, I was mulling over an email conversation I had the previous night with my new friend Dave. Dave lives in Mali, West Africa. I was wishing that I could transport myself three weeks forward in time when I would be there for a visit. One night, among other things, we were talking rock.  Hot Rock Climbing Expedition 2: Ethiopia
Ethiopia: The wildest, craziest mix of beauty on the planet. The deep canyons, eagles, and waterfalls, Mohawk kids cracking their whips after a herd of galloping horses. Graceful robed women with crosses and ornaments tattooed to their foreheads. That all has greeted us, as we crossed The high Simien Mountains. Our next climbing destination was Aksum in Northern Ethiopia.  Climbing the Nose With the Man of Speed
I originally met Hans Florine at the Outdoor Retailer trade shows. In October 2009, he came to our climbing gym here in Colorado Springs to do a speed climbing presentation. I talked to him for a bit, bringing up my failed attempt at climbing the Nose two years ago. After his presentation was over, I went to say goodbye to him, and he mentioned climbing the Nose with me "if I was ever down that way." Of course I would make it a point to get down that way!  Hot Rock Climbing Expedition: Egypt to Cape Town
Yes, climbing is about going beyond the limits, always pushing the envelope, exploring the unreachable, being first where nobody stood before, following the unknown. Hot Rock Climbing Expedition is all about that – a trip across the entire continent of Africa, Egypt to Cape Town, while exploring never before climbed crags, and putting up new routes on barely touched cliffs.  On Kilimanjaro I felt like I ascended into heaven
It is not often that one meets a very experienced veteran trip leader specializing in safaris to wild parks and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro who says, when he successfully climbed Kilimanjaro to the summit for the first time in 1988, "I was very happy when I reached the roof of Africa. I felt like I have been ascended into heaven, body and soul."  Slow Groove
To most, California's Central Coast is a refreshing kaleidoscope of green vineyards, twisted oaks, and round, open hills between Los Angeles and San Francisco. But to climbers, it’s a secret hideaway with dozens of crags. The Central Coast has some of the state’s best, most diverse cragging. The wild palette includes sandstone, conglomerate, schist, dacite, basalt, and limestone.  Daddy Loves You!
Our reporter arrived on a crowded March weekend, settling into a hollow below a piñon tree 100 feet from the cliff to document the dozens of craggers. The day progressed predictably — with standard-issue hanging, Beta-spraying, and snacking — until around 1:30 p.m., when a booming voice sounded from the trail: a certain “Daddy,” announcing his presence, his terrified bottle-blonde “Babydoll” in tow.  Cruel Summer
The summer of 2008 was a rough one in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. It seemed like every week, someone was getting hurt. I figure these accidents are just that — accidents — and I’m not usually drawn to them. Sometimes, though, they’re drawn to me. Maybe it’s because I survived a bad one myself: a 100-foot fall in Rocky Mountain National Park that ultimately claimed my right leg.  Romancing the Stones
As any old mountain goat will tell you, in the piton days of yore, men climbed together, slept together, and ate from the same can with the same spoon — brotherhood-of-the- rope stuff. Although not quite Brokeback Mountaineers, these men chased away their loneliness with wine and women . . . when they could afford or entice either. Then a paradigm shift occurred, improving the sport more than sticky rubber or cams. Women began to flow over the stone, scrubbing away the testosterone stains and proving that climbing is a wholly human endeavor. Broad generalizations aside, there have always been women climbers...  Teton Climbing Achievements Announced
Climbing historian, guidebook author and TBP volunteer Renny Jackson has compiled a list of the most significant achievements in Teton climbing history. The list will serve as the foundation for the historical component of the bouldering park we seek to build at the base of Snow King Mountain in downtown Jackson Hole. We are publishing it here in full, and we actively encourage feedback from climbers and historians to help us finalize the list.  5.13+ Barefoot Free Solo
Photos and video by Djamila Proft / dustinthewind1973 - Andreas Proft barefoot free solos the 25 meter Excess Power, a 8a+ or 5.13c ex-trad route, that's now a fully bolted sport route, in Costa Blanca's Echo Valley, Spain. In an email Proft commented that "It took me many tries to get comfy enough [on the route] and cost me some sleep as well." The 36-year-old German has sent a number of other hard 5.13 routes all without rockshoes. See Footloose and Fancy Free for more about Proft's barefoot endeavors.  World Cup Ice Climbing Crowns Old and New Champions
Austria's Markus Bendler and Russia’s Pavel Gulyaev have defended their Ice Climbing titles in the Lead and Speed disciplines respectively. This year’s women’s Lead champion is Anna Gallyamova of Russia, and her compatriot, Nadezda Shubina was crowned Speed queen. Go here for full results.  Luckiest Man alive and the Widow Maker
Okay climbers, this is an article for you! You know who you are. You, like me, will watch your favorite sports on Sundays, after a gym climbing workout; may eat healthy food with friends; and for the most part are extremely physical in almost all sports, and pretty much ignore your wife, partner, or friends if they tell you that you ought to get pesky little health things checked out, right?  Mountain Weather
Updated 2/18/10 by Michael Fagin - Weekly updates on mountain weather for a different location each week and updated every Thursday. We will cover the following: Alps, Cascades, Sierra, Aconcagua, and more will be added. Lead forecaster Michael Fagin has been providing mountain weather forecasts since the 1970's.  Climbing On The Edge of The World
As our boat left the Harbor out of Ha Long City, my friend, Greg Troutman and I got our first glimpse at the cliffs we traveled halfway across the world to climb. Dark and ominous they rose out of the ocean with a menacing white tint, piercing the horizon. Ha Long Bay, located off the northwest coast of Vietnam is an awe-inspiring site for those who are lucky enough to see it. |
|
Get 2 free trial issues
plus a free gift!
plus a free gift!
Copyright 2010 Skram Media LLC, All rights reserved.