 |
Bolts for Bangalore
Bolts for Bangalore was two-month project in India to train local climbers how to replace unsafe anchors on existing routes and establish some safe new sport climbs. Over 50 remarkable new pitches were climbed in the areas of Badami and Ramanagaram.
Adventure Therapy - Ice Climbing in Canmore
Story and photos by Tim Ashwood - Pursuing big ice and pushing my cerebral palsy to new heights, I headed to Canmore Canada and Banff National Park. I arrived in Canmore Sunday January 27th at Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge. This would be my home for the next week.
Past the Bolt on the Stanley Headwall
An essay by Raphael Slawinski - The Stanley Headwall (or simply, THE Headwall): the premier hard ice and mixed crag of the Canadian Rockies and a testing ground for winter climbing since way back in ’74. That was the year when Bugs McKeith spearheaded the first ascent of Nemesis (150 m, WI6), brandishing Terrordactyls, aiders, fixed ropes and all.
Solar Plexus: New 5.12 at Table Rock, NC
In December 2007, Mike Grimm, Nathan Brown, and Lee Carter sent a new route, Solar Plexus, at Table Rock, North Carolina. The two-pitch (5.12b), 200-foot trad route feeds off Mourning Maiden (established in the 1980s by Lee Carter and Tommy Howard; 5.10 R with one bolt and one pin). Solar Plexus is located on the same wall as Indecent Exposure.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 14
By Fitz Cahall - Sir Edmund Hillary often insisted that while his feats and goals were of historic proportions, he was just a simple man, more comfortable in cover-alls than the high-attire of a British Knight. Aside from an Oscar-Wilde-like-talent for producing witty quotes, Hillary was the embodiment of the everyman – a sort of elder, dirtbag statesman.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 13
A Lifeline Home - Micah and Ryan were members of Charlie Company, a medevac unit serving the Baghdad area. Together, they were responsible for shepherding the wounded and the dead from the Iraq's battlefields to the hospital in a Blackhawk helicopter.
Vote for your Favorite DVD of 2007
Vote for the climbing movie you liked best in 2007: King Lines, E11, Higher Ground, Committed, Memento, Monday Mojo, Psyche, Swedish Meatballs, or The Top 20 Classic Boulder Problems
Arctic Thrills - Greenland's Fox Jaw Cirque
The land's frozen, the food questionable, but the climbing ... spectacular. For Nate Furman and friends Josh Beckner, Jed Porter, Annie Trujillo, Kadin Panagoulis, and Darcy Deutcher, not even a two-day hike to the nearest liquor store, in Kummuit, 30 miles from basecamp, could put a damper on their excursion to Greenland's Fox Jaw Cirque.
20 Questions with Tim Emmett
By Luke Laeser - BASE jumping, wing suit piloting, bigwall, mixed, speed, sport, and DWS climbing — UK extremist Tim Emmett is anything but idle with first ascents in the Garhwal Himal to podium finishes at the World Ice Climbing Championships.
Fin Wall Mount Foraker, Alaska
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Freddie Wilkinson - Once upon a time, in the forties, fifties, and sixties, way back in the dark ages of alpinism before modern ice climbing had even been invented, Alaskan climbing was all about gnarly glacier travel.
American Latok 1 Expedition
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Josh Wharton - Bean Bowers and I arrived on the Choktoi Glacier on July 1st, hopeful that we might be the team lucky enough to finally crack Latok 1’s infamous North Ridge.
Ultar Sar's Hidden Pillar
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Colin Haley - In August Jed Brown and I flew to Islamabad and soon were bumping along the Karakorum Highway towards the famous Hunza Valley, on the west end of the Karakorum Range.
Megalodon Man
By Andrea Sutherland - Photos by Blake Herrington - After a summer packed with hiking, scrambling, bushwacking, wading, rappelling, climbing, and first ascents, Blake Herrington, of Bellingham, Washington, needs a job… or perhaps just more virgin stone.
Legends of the Costa Blanca
Text and Photos by Dougald MacDonald - The Costa Blanca, a 50-mile swath of beaches and limestone cliffs on Spain’s eastern coast, between Murcia and Valencia, is one of the great winter climbing destinations of the world.
LEGACY OF THE DREAMER
Grant more than doubles for 2008 Mugs Stump Award - As long as it was at least a little bit out there, Mugs Stump was always psyched for something, be it a big wall, long free route, frozen waterfall, or high alpine face.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 10
There’s no such thing as a perfect job. There’s always a catch nagging bosses, gossiping co-workers, crummy benefits. That’s why we get paid to work. But what if there was a magical place where you could get paid to climb.
The Best Climbing Wall in Iraq
Micah Helser is a Medevac pilot for the Army, currently deployed to Iraq. He’s been in Iraq for a year now, and will remain there for three more months. He spends his days sweating in the desert heat, flying rescue missions in a Blackhawk helicopter.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 9
A Prayer for a Friend - How do people remember the dead? Some people stuff wrinkled snapshots into wallets. Others build ornate mausoleums. Others ensure their friends’ memories by creating goals that can never fully be realized.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 8
If you've opened an outdoor magazine in the last three years, you've probably read about Steve House. In the last decade, he's pulled off some incredible ascents in the Canadian Rockies, Alaska and the Himalaya.
The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 7
In 1996, photographer John Burcham and three friends completed the first foot traverse of the 650-mile long Alaska Range. Together, they forded streams, chased off curious grizzlies and crossed crevassed glaciers.
|