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 Ground Zero: Part I
This compelling story comes to us from a climber you might know who prefers to remain anonymous — I came to bouncing around in my car. It felt like I was crossing a field, but I had no idea where I was or what was happening. I only knew I was bouncing around in my car. I came to a stop in a stupor.  Sard in a Can: Part IV
Dispatches from the Island of Sardinia by Bruce Willey - The best thing about a hanging belay on a multi-pitch climb is the promise of a nice, semi-spacious belay ledge above. A place where you can kick off your shoes, have a sip of water, look around. That, and the hope that when you’re swinging leads with your partner, your pitch ends at one.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 17 - The Golden HourBy Fitz Cahall - On a warm spring day in 1991, Tom Broxson topped out on The Prow of Yosemite Valley’s Washington Column. To this day, Tom and the rescuers who saved his life aren’t exactly sure what happened next, but it ended in Tom surviving the unthinkable — a 200-foot fall onto a slab. He broke every appendage. On the flight out, the helicopter’s engine burst into flames. It was as Tom says, “A high gravity day.”  Sard in a Can: Part III
Dispatches from the Island of Sardinia by Bruce Willey - Defining Flow is a dubious if uncertain enterprise. It’s supposed to happen when you’re not paying attention, when you’re deep in the throes of say painting water lilies, blowing an Ornette Coleman riff from the mistral winds in your lungs and igniting a thousand fires.  Sard in a Can: Part II
Dispatches from the Island of Sardinia by Bruce Willey - Every time I turn around I catch the missus reading the Sardegna guidebook. Later in bed, she marks off climbs we have done today, highlighting climbs we are going to do tomorrow, and climbs we will never get around to doing.  Sard in a Can: Part I
Dispatches from the Island of Sardinia by Bruce Willey - Overlooking the orange groves and pastures just outside Quirra it becomes clear: we sound like sheep. The quick draws tinkle like the sheep bells, and after a week of climbing we begin to feel as though we are blending into the Mediterranean landscape.  Lisa Rands on The Mandala
Interview by Justin Roth - On January 18, 2008, Lisa Rands nabbed the first female ascent of The Mandala (V12; FA Chris Sharma, 2000), in Bishop, California. The tall, overhung prow was for decades dismissed as too futuristic and to this day remains one of the most coveted and storied problems in American bouldering.  DO NOT LET FEAR AFFECT YOUR CLIMBING
Sometimes, fear and anxiety can get the best of us in our climbing. The key is to know how to manage that fear and anxiety. As a result, here is a brief list of techniques that a climber can use to help manage their fears and every day anxieties.  Bolts for Bangalore
Bolts for Bangalore was two-month project in India to train local climbers how to replace unsafe anchors on existing routes and establish some safe new sport climbs. Over 50 remarkable new pitches were climbed in the areas of Badami and Ramanagaram.  Adventure Therapy - Ice Climbing in Canmore
Story and photos by Tim Ashwood - Pursuing big ice and pushing my cerebral palsy to new heights, I headed to Canmore Canada and Banff National Park. I arrived in Canmore Sunday January 27th at Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge. This would be my home for the next week.  Past the Bolt on the Stanley Headwall
An essay by Raphael Slawinski - The Stanley Headwall (or simply, THE Headwall): the premier hard ice and mixed crag of the Canadian Rockies and a testing ground for winter climbing since way back in ’74. That was the year when Bugs McKeith spearheaded the first ascent of Nemesis (150 m, WI6), brandishing Terrordactyls, aiders, fixed ropes and all.  Solar Plexus: New 5.12 at Table Rock, NC
In December 2007, Mike Grimm, Nathan Brown, and Lee Carter sent a new route, Solar Plexus, at Table Rock, North Carolina. The two-pitch (5.12b), 200-foot trad route feeds off Mourning Maiden (established in the 1980s by Lee Carter and Tommy Howard; 5.10 R with one bolt and one pin). Solar Plexus is located on the same wall as Indecent Exposure.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 14
By Fitz Cahall - Sir Edmund Hillary often insisted that while his feats and goals were of historic proportions, he was just a simple man, more comfortable in cover-alls than the high-attire of a British Knight. Aside from an Oscar-Wilde-like-talent for producing witty quotes, Hillary was the embodiment of the everyman – a sort of elder, dirtbag statesman.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 13
A Lifeline Home - Micah and Ryan were members of Charlie Company, a medevac unit serving the Baghdad area. Together, they were responsible for shepherding the wounded and the dead from the Iraq's battlefields to the hospital in a Blackhawk helicopter.  Vote for your Favorite DVD of 2007
Vote for the climbing movie you liked best in 2007: King Lines, E11, Higher Ground, Committed, Memento, Monday Mojo, Psyche, Swedish Meatballs, or The Top 20 Classic Boulder Problems  Arctic Thrills - Greenland's Fox Jaw Cirque
The land's frozen, the food questionable, but the climbing ... spectacular. For Nate Furman and friends Josh Beckner, Jed Porter, Annie Trujillo, Kadin Panagoulis, and Darcy Deutcher, not even a two-day hike to the nearest liquor store, in Kummuit, 30 miles from basecamp, could put a damper on their excursion to Greenland's Fox Jaw Cirque.  20 Questions with Tim Emmett
By Luke Laeser - BASE jumping, wing suit piloting, bigwall, mixed, speed, sport, and DWS climbing — UK extremist Tim Emmett is anything but idle with first ascents in the Garhwal Himal to podium finishes at the World Ice Climbing Championships.  Fin Wall Mount Foraker, Alaska
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Freddie Wilkinson - Once upon a time, in the forties, fifties, and sixties, way back in the dark ages of alpinism before modern ice climbing had even been invented, Alaskan climbing was all about gnarly glacier travel.  American Latok 1 Expedition
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Josh Wharton - Bean Bowers and I arrived on the Choktoi Glacier on July 1st, hopeful that we might be the team lucky enough to finally crack Latok 1’s infamous North Ridge.  Ultar Sar's Hidden Pillar
2007 Mugs Stump Award Trip Report by Colin Haley - In August Jed Brown and I flew to Islamabad and soon were bumping along the Karakorum Highway towards the famous Hunza Valley, on the west end of the Karakorum Range. |
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