Climbing
Above & Beyond
A Trip to the Miyar Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India


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As we neared our base camp, we were pleasantly greeted by a liaison officer from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation who happened to be with the Korean team. He instantly asked us what we were doing here in the valley and if we had climbing permits. We had contacted the IMF before arriving in the valley so we knew the rules consisted of only needing a permit for peaks greater than 6,000m. We had heard of his blackmailing ways towards the other teams, : convincing them they needed a permit for all peaks no matter what their height and that they could pay him in exchange of him not reporting them. So we were prepared for his interrogation. Luckily, we had left our gear at our high camp and had nothing but small packs and trekking poles. "We are trekkers, of course," we told the officer, "no climbing, only looking." Not satisfied with our answer he began to question our cook in Hindi. Fortunately, Tucshand knew the deal and covered for us telling the L.O. we truly were only trekkers and we do "no risky, only looking". We were set. All we had to do was lay low and hide our gear, watch our words, and hope he would leave so we would not have to give him any undeserved money. The maps available from the IMF do not even show the peaks under 6,000m in the area so we knew he was only trying to make money. 

After our climb, Camilo had a cough that worsened, so we went to see the Italian doctor that the large team had brought with them. Measuring his oxygen and listening to his lungs he determined him to have bronchitis and started him on antibiotics. For the next few days we rested and waited to see if the cough would pass. If not, we knew we might have to go down to a lower elevation for recuperation. Luckily after a few doses of antibiotics, Camilo’s energy returned and we were psyched to climb again. Also, to our good fortune, the liaison officer had retreated down the valley to the nearest town because of a "bad back" although there was a rumor of someone slipping him a pill that causes diarrhea. 


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Next we set off into the Nameless Valley hoping one peak would call us among the others and sure enough it did. Peak 5,800 had no record of being climbed before and with its long ridge and sheer face it stands proud among the other peaks in the valley. The peak is not far up the valley and we were feeling very acclimated by this point, so we decided to assault the ridge without a high camp. 

Starting at 4am we left base camp crossed the cold, ice-covered river, arriving at the wall around 8am. We simul-climbed for approximately 800 meters, on the long 5.7- 5.8ish northwest ridge, moving as quickly as possible. We belayed two pitches of 5.9 near the upper section before unroping and scrambling low 5th class towards the summit. We arrived under a short snow couloir that led to the pre-summit and the traversed 100m of extremely loose rock to the main summit. We reached the summit around 5pm and it was the summit of all summits! The views were awesome allowing us to see into all three valleys and the countless amounts of spires surrounding us. We were happy as ever, but knew we had only made it half of the way, as we still needed to find a descent with only a few hours of daylight remaining. 



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