Our mission for Education Elevated was to raise money to build a new library for an unmapped village school in Chyangba Village (a remote village near Mt. Everest 8 – 10 miles northeast of Phaplu, Nepal) by trekking to Everest Base Camp, and finally summiting Island Peak (20,305ft).  

View a photo gallery of this trip by Gerri Kier

Initially, the idea presented to me to climb for charity seemed appealing.  After all, I had been rock climbing and mountaineering for the past seven years — just to escape life itself.  This trip, however, would mean the complete opposite.  To climb for charity in Nepal, would mean I would be exposed to real life — a life without luxuries, not to mention a once in a life-time opportunity and life-changing experience.  In addition, my personal mission with climbing, other than escaping my general everyday routine, has been to incorporate climbing with helping children in some way, shape, or form.  When Gerri Kier, the founder of Education Elevated, asked if I’d be interested in changing children’s lives, “one foot at a time,” I could not resist the offer.  I stayed in phone and email contact with my new friend, Gerri, planning the trip for over a year.

Our mission for Education Elevated was to raise money to build a new library for an unmapped village school in Chyangba Village (a remote village near Mt. Everest 8 – 10 miles northeast of Phaplu, Nepal) by trekking to Everest Base Camp, and finally summiting Island Peak (20,305ft).  

The Airport: As I was sitting, alone, in the Spokane International Airport, watching time tick away, before my flight to Kathmandu, the Saturday before Mother’s Day (May 10, 2008), anxiety overcame me.  The emotion I felt, caused my heart to throb up into my throat.  The idea of climbing to 20,000+ feet was insane!  Maybe my family was right, I thought.  My doctor wasn’t even sure my body would survive something like that with my recent health issues.  The reality became clear — I may have just said good-bye, one last time, to my own children (and family and friends).  I recognized, “this was it – I could die!”  Yes, I truly was frightened!   In fact, I recalled the Mother’s Day cards and birthday cards I sent, hoping I didn’t forget any family or friend, and also wondered if I’d said enough on the updated Will and letters I prepared and left with my mom, for my children. Strangely enough, however, the more I thought about the situation, the more emotionless and numb I got.  I finally heard my flight called and embraced my dream . . . I was on my way to Nepal, to live my dream, and to help change one life at a time.

The Flight:  Two words, grueling (and) long.  Flying into time, I arrived in Nepal on Monday, May 12^th – losing one full day.  Sadly, it was Mother’s Day I lost, and somewhat feeling guilty, I tried calling my children, once I arrived in Kathmandu.  I had no success, as my cell phone had no international service, and the calling card I purchased did not work in Nepal.  My only hope was to find a computer and email service. I was met at the airport by Pem Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, along with two of the Education Elevated team members (Dan and Marius).  Tired, but relieved, and eager to see Nepal, Pem led us back to the Tibetan Guest House, where the seven members of Education Elevated Expedition Team I would all meet for the first time, and where we would stay for two days — acclimating to the culture.  And yes – I was finally able to email my children and mom.

Kathmanudu: Day one of the expedition (from airport, to hotel, to tour) included a tour by Moni Mulepatie-Sherpa, Pem’s wife, of downtown Kathmandu.  Kathmandu, by complete unbiased observation is a very unclean, old, run-down, stench-engrossed city, filled with swarming merchants, orphaned, begging children, goats, cows, wild, mangy street dogs, rickshaws, honking motorcycles and cars, and gods and goddess Hindu temples littering the cobblestone streets.  The monkeys found their way around, surviving on garbage from the sacrificial food(s) — rice dust, corn, bananas, etc., left for the statue gods, and by raiding rooftop restaurants.  The bright red pugha, used in blessing the Hindu foreheads and splashing temple walls, gives off an illusion that blood is splattered, and dripping down the old brick walls and sidewalks.  There are Hindus and Buddhists alike, sharing space and worship, mostly Hindu dominated, with pig, monkey, and cow temples, along with their living goddess, the Kumari.  There were worship bells and horns, sounding every minute, or when a believer gives worship, along with unusually strong incense near the temples. In the city there was no real running water, except for the wealthier tea house/guest houses.  Even the nicest homes appear as if they were the remains of a war zone.  The toilets (holes in the floor, with no available toilet paper), along with the smells from smog, rotting food, and desecration, was so intense, even the Nepalese covered their faces with bandanas and scarves.  The smog was so thick; the mountain ranges could not even be seen.  We, seven strangers, all meeting via coordination of Education Elevated, for the same reason, to climb to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak, were ready to leave the Tibetan Guest House for Lukla, and begin our trek as soon as possible.

The Temples/stupas:   Day two (May 13^th) of our acclimation of the culture, was led by our Sherpa, Pem Dorjee Sherpa, to visit the Monkey Temple (Shantipura, a.k.a. Akashapura), and to visit Patan Durbar Square, situated in the heart of the city of Lalitpur (a.k.a. Patan, a.k.a. Yala, founded in 299 A.D. with a current population of 160,000 people) – the city of fine arts, constitutes the focus of visitor’s attraction.  The square is full of ancient monuments, temples and shines, along with the ancient Royal Palace, and three main chowks (courtyards), and over-population of monkeys.  There are over 1200 Buddhist monuments of various shapes and sizes scattered in and around the city. Kumbheshwor temple (a unique, five roofed temple), Mahabouddha, a 14^th century Nepalese architectural masterpiece, made of high quality bricks in which thousands of images of Lord Buddha are engraved, the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar), a three story golden pagoda of Lord Buddha – built in the 12^th century, the Rudra Barna Mahavihar Buddhist monastery, and many others – fill the Patan area, continue bringing in tourists and visitors, hence the majority of income to Nepal. 

After visiting the temples, Pam guided us to the Peculate Area, where we observed a cremation memorial service (unfortunately!!!).  The Hindu temple, where this was taking place, next to a body of stagnant water ( the Nepalese call a river), full of ashes, bone and burnt wood from the cremation piles, had two families surrounding cement pillars, ready to begin the service. Just as the seven of us watched in disbelief (too common for Pem to be alarmed by), jaws dropping down, and teary-eyed, a Sadducee (a religious man of some belief of his own), painted completely white, dressed in bright yellow wrap-type cloth, chased us around with Phuga.  When he realized we were avoiding him to observe the memorial service he quietly left us.  However, the traumatizing reality was staring us all in the face.  The father of a child, along with two other men, circled around the pile of wood on the cement pillar, with the body of the child (who was wrapped in bright yellow, red and green cloth, and covered in flowers) three times before laying the body on the wood pile.  As soon as a chant was heard, the cloth was opened and the woodpile lit.  Once the flame was obvious, we heard the most horrific waling, crying and screaming from a woman (we guessed was the mother of the child) near the ceremony.  She nearly fell over, and then she was lead into the temple, away from the burning body.  We also, felt the tears well up, and choked on the smell of incense and burning flesh, drifting our direction.  At that awkward moment of silence, someone in our team asked Pem how long it takes for a body to burn.  He said only thirty minutes, as sugar is added for faster burning.  We also asked if this was how the Buddhists perform the ceremony of a death.  He said, “No, we believe in cremation, but we bring the body to the top of a mountain, perform a cremation service, then pile rocks over the burnt area, for an everlasting memorial.  Hence, the many rock pile memorials seen in the Himalayas, on the trekking trail(s). 

That day was difficult and depressing for all seven of us.  After the cremation service, we were mostly quiet and grieved, until we went to dinner that night (at Rum Noodle).  Rum Noodle is the famous climbers/trekkers trophy and recognition hangout in Nepal.  There are white, wooden Yeti feet hung all throughout the restaurant from every climber, their Sherpas, and trekkers whom have trekked/climbed and died in the Everest mountain range.  What an experience!!!  The food was great (MoMo, Pizza, stuffed mushrooms, etc), and who could complain about the pint-1/2 sized “Everest” beer.  We became very content by the atmosphere and spirits, trying to forget about the day’s events.  Once done with our meal, we headed back to the Tibetan Guest House (walking the streets of Kathmandu) to go over gear with our Sherpa, Pem, and to repack our bags, to prepare for the 28 days of trekking/climbing in the Himalayas.