Our mission for Education Elevated was to raise money to build a new library for an unmapped village school in Chyangba Village (a remote village near Mt. Everest 8 – 10 miles northeast of Phaplu, Nepal) by trekking to Everest Base Camp, and finally summiting Island Peak (20,305ft).
Initially, the idea presented to me to climb for charity seemed appealing. After all, I had been rock climbing and mountaineering for the past seven years — just to escape life itself. This trip, however, would mean the complete opposite. To climb for charity in Nepal, would mean I would be exposed to real life — a life without luxuries, not to mention a once in a life-time opportunity and life-changing experience. In addition, my personal mission with climbing, other than escaping my general everyday routine, has been to incorporate climbing with helping children in some way, shape, or form. When Gerri Kier, the founder of Education Elevated, asked if I’d be interested in changing children’s lives, “one foot at a time,” I could not resist the offer. I stayed in phone and email contact with my new friend, Gerri, planning the trip for over a year.
Our mission for Education Elevated was to raise money to build a new library for an unmapped village school in Chyangba Village (a remote village near Mt. Everest 8 – 10 miles northeast of Phaplu, Nepal) by trekking to Everest Base Camp, and finally summiting Island Peak (20,305ft).
The Airport: As I was sitting, alone, in the Spokane International Airport, watching time tick away, before my flight to Kathmandu, the Saturday before Mother’s Day (May 10, 2008), anxiety overcame me. The emotion I felt, caused my heart to throb up into my throat. The idea of climbing to 20,000+ feet was insane! Maybe my family was right, I thought. My doctor wasn’t even sure my body would survive something like that with my recent health issues. The reality became clear — I may have just said good-bye, one last time, to my own children (and family and friends). I recognized, “this was it – I could die!” Yes, I truly was frightened! In fact, I recalled the Mother’s Day cards and birthday cards I sent, hoping I didn’t forget any family or friend, and also wondered if I’d said enough on the updated Will and letters I prepared and left with my mom, for my children. Strangely enough, however, the more I thought about the situation, the more emotionless and numb I got. I finally heard my flight called and embraced my dream . . . I was on my way to Nepal, to live my dream, and to help change one life at a time.
The Flight: Two words, grueling (and) long. Flying into time, I arrived in Nepal on Monday, May 12th – losing one full day. Sadly, it was Mother’s Day I lost, and somewhat feeling guilty, I tried calling my children, once I arrived in Kathmandu. I had no success, as my cell phone had no international service, and the calling card I purchased did not work in Nepal. My only hope was to find a computer and email service. I was met at the airport by Pem Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, along with two of the Education Elevated team members (Dan and Marius). Tired, but relieved, and eager to see Nepal, Pem led us back to the Tibetan Guest House, where the seven members of Education Elevated Expedition Team I would all meet for the first time, and where we would stay for two days — acclimating to the culture. And yes – I was finally able to email my children and mom.
Kathmanudu: Day one of the expedition (from airport, to hotel, to tour) included a tour by Moni Mulepatie-Sherpa, Pem’s wife, of downtown Kathmandu. Kathmandu, by complete unbiased observation is a very unclean, old, run-down, stench-engrossed city, filled with swarming merchants, orphaned, begging children, goats, cows, wild, mangy street dogs, rickshaws, honking motorcycles and cars, and gods and goddess Hindu temples littering the cobblestone streets. The monkeys found their way around, surviving on garbage from the sacrificial food(s) — rice dust, corn, bananas, etc., left for the statue gods, and by raiding rooftop restaurants. The bright red pugha, used in blessing the Hindu foreheads and splashing temple walls, gives off an illusion that blood is splattered, and dripping down the old brick walls and sidewalks. There are Hindus and Buddhists alike, sharing space and worship, mostly Hindu dominated, with pig, monkey, and cow temples, along with their living goddess, the Kumari. There were worship bells and horns, sounding every minute, or when a believer gives worship, along with unusually strong incense near the temples. In the city there was no real running water, except for the wealthier tea house/guest houses. Even the nicest homes appear as if they were the remains of a war zone. The toilets (holes in the floor, with no available toilet paper), along with the smells from smog, rotting food, and desecration, was so intense, even the Nepalese covered their faces with bandanas and scarves. The smog was so thick; the mountain ranges could not even be seen. We, seven strangers, all meeting via coordination of Education Elevated, for the same reason, to climb to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak, were ready to leave the Tibetan Guest House for Lukla, and begin our trek as soon as possible.
The Temples/stupas: Day two (May 13th) of our acclimation of the culture, was led by our Sherpa, Pem Dorjee Sherpa, to visit the Monkey Temple (Shantipura, a.k.a. Akashapura), and to visit Patan Durbar Square, situated in the heart of the city of Lalitpur (a.k.a. Patan, a.k.a. Yala, founded in 299 A.D. with a current population of 160,000 people) – the city of fine arts, constitutes the focus of visitor’s attraction. The square is full of ancient monuments, temples and shines, along with the ancient Royal Palace, and three main chowks (courtyards), and over-population of monkeys. There are over 1200 Buddhist monuments of various shapes and sizes scattered in and around the city. Kumbheshwor temple (a unique, five roofed temple), Mahabouddha, a 14th century Nepalese architectural masterpiece, made of high quality bricks in which thousands of images of Lord Buddha are engraved, the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar), a three story golden pagoda of Lord Buddha – built in the 12th century, the Rudra Barna Mahavihar Buddhist monastery, and many others – fill the Patan area, continue bringing in tourists and visitors, hence the majority of income to Nepal.
After visiting the temples, Pam guided us to the Peculate Area, where we observed a cremation memorial service (unfortunately!!!). The Hindu temple, where this was taking place, next to a body of stagnant water ( the Nepalese call a river), full of ashes, bone and burnt wood from the cremation piles, had two families surrounding cement pillars, ready to begin the service. Just as the seven of us watched in disbelief (too common for Pem to be alarmed by), jaws dropping down, and teary-eyed, a Sadducee (a religious man of some belief of his own), painted completely white, dressed in bright yellow wrap-type cloth, chased us around with Phuga. When he realized we were avoiding him to observe the memorial service he quietly left us. However, the traumatizing reality was staring us all in the face. The father of a child, along with two other men, circled around the pile of wood on the cement pillar, with the body of the child (who was wrapped in bright yellow, red and green cloth, and covered in flowers) three times before laying the body on the wood pile. As soon as a chant was heard, the cloth was opened and the woodpile lit. Once the flame was obvious, we heard the most horrific waling, crying and screaming from a woman (we guessed was the mother of the child) near the ceremony. She nearly fell over, and then she was lead into the temple, away from the burning body. We also, felt the tears well up, and choked on the smell of incense and burning flesh, drifting our direction. At that awkward moment of silence, someone in our team asked Pem how long it takes for a body to burn. He said only thirty minutes, as sugar is added for faster burning. We also asked if this was how the Buddhists perform the ceremony of a death. He said, “No, we believe in cremation, but we bring the body to the top of a mountain, perform a cremation service, then pile rocks over the burnt area, for an everlasting memorial. Hence, the many rock pile memorials seen in the Himalayas, on the trekking trail(s).
That day was difficult and depressing for all seven of us. After the cremation service, we were mostly quiet and grieved, until we went to dinner that night (at Rum Noodle). Rum Noodle is the famous climbers/trekkers trophy and recognition hangout in Nepal. There are white, wooden Yeti feet hung all throughout the restaurant from every climber, their Sherpas, and trekkers whom have trekked/climbed and died in the Everest mountain range. What an experience!!! The food was great (MoMo, Pizza, stuffed mushrooms, etc), and who could complain about the pint-1/2 sized “Everest” beer. We became very content by the atmosphere and spirits, trying to forget about the day’s events. Once done with our meal, we headed back to the Tibetan Guest House (walking the streets of Kathmandu) to go over gear with our Sherpa, Pem, and to repack our bags, to prepare for the 28 days of trekking/climbing in the Himalayas.
The Trek
May 14, 2008, 5:00 am (Nepal time)
We all met in the hotel lobby, refreshed, rested and ready with our gear to be weighed. Each person going to Everest Base Camp, and Island Peak could have up to two bags (weighing no more than 40 lbs. each) – preferably duffle-type (easier for the Sherpas), and one bag for those trekking to Everest Base Camp only. I had two, hoping to be one to climb and summit Island Peak, in addition to trekking to Everest Base Camp, 18,200 feet elevation. From Kathmandu, we flew on a 25 passenger “puddle jumper” to Lukla – the Tenzing-Hillary Airport. The landing strip was no longer than a city block (barely enough to screech to a halt) with a 10 foot concrete wall at the end. Everest, here we come!
Lukla was pleasant. The seven of us agreed that Lukla was a breath of fresh air, away from the merchants, the honking horns, the unpleasant smells, and the Hindu elders, chasing us with phuga. The village was quaint, with two-story stone homes, and stores, along with a few tea houses/hotels, all lined on each side of well-kept stone walkways. Once settled into the tea house (one that Pem’s aunt owns), and after our “milk tea”, we met Pem’s aunt and the rest of the 13 Sherpas, who would be guiding and hauling our gear for the next twenty some days. We then chose to relax and walk around the village, Gerri taking photos of children, merchants, gardens, etc., and just getting acquainted with how the trekking trail villages were going to look and feel to us (acclimatizing). Lukla, approximately 8200 feet elevation, set the stage for the beginning of our adventure to change the lives of one child at a time.
Day 1 of Trek, MAY 15, 2008 – 9:00 am
Pem and the seven of us (Education Elevated Team I, a.k.a. Virgin Voyagers, as we named ourselves), all met in the tea house dining area. Pem discussed our itinerary for our first day out on the trail. It seemed rather simple and relaxing. We would hike to Phakding, only a 500 foot elevation gain. My thought was, well maybe this trek would not be all that difficult after all.
From Lukla to Phakding, we saw some of the most atavistic villages. The underdevelopment clearly caused the Nepalese an extremely difficult life. As we crossed long cable and wooden suspension bridges, we saw the same thing, time after time, village after village – elementary age children, training to sherpa (carry heavy loads) with bamboo baskets, strapped to their foreheads, and farmers (mostly women) weeding their enormous gardens by hand. We went through the Kusum Kangru, the Tharo Kosi, and past the Saino Lodge, to break for lunch at the Passang Temba’s Mt. Kusum View Lodge. The Kusum Peak is 6,367 meters, and the most difficult of trekking peaks. I was glad to not have taken that route. At lunch, a caravan of Zubkas (1/2 cow, 1/2 yak) passed the tea house where we rested. I had no idea this animal even existed. It looked like a hairy cow with horns. It was strange craving protein and seeing it pass right there, next to our table, which was outdoor seating. For lunch we had a choice of rice or noodles, served with fresh spinach and carrots. Most of us were frightened to order any meat, as the meat (chicken, beef and water buffalo) had been Sherpa’d up with us from Kathmandu (uncovered), and who knew how long it hung in the merchant’s stores. Canned tuna was going to be our main source of protein (FOR 20-SOME DAYS! – Yuk!). One hour after lunch, on a simple hike, we reached our destination for the day, Phakding. It seemed too easy and good to be true . . . our day was short, non-strenuous, and quite fun. I was thrilled to have signed up for such an adventure.
Day 2 of trek, MAY 16, 2008 – 5:00 am
The plan was to start the day off early, as the trek would be a bit more intense. Our Sherpas retrieved each of us a warm bowl of water for washing, and left it at our tea house hotel door. Gerri and I were roomies, Dan and Brandi (the only married couple) were obviously roomies, Lee and his good friend Marius from Germany roomed up, and Elliot, the Chicago guy, had a room to himself. There were no showers at the tea houses . . . unless we wanted a warm bucket for 200 rupees put into a camping shower-type contraption. Not until we reached Namche Bazar would there be warm showers, and they did not compare to the Tibetan Guest House shower either. The toilets had gone from good, to bad, to primitive. The hotel in Kathmandu had flushing toilets, the tea houses had porcelain holes in the floor, sometimes with a flushing unit (imported from who knows where . . . probably France), and a bucket of bacteria-filled water with a pitcher to rinse, and the outhouse-type toilets on the trekking trail had old, broken down wooden floors with an eyeball shaped hole in the floor (all with no available toilet paper). That is when the luxurious “Wet Ones – antibacterial” came into play. After an hour rest trekking from Phakding to Monjo (a 1000 ft. elevation gain), and eating lunch — “hot lemon” tea, curry rice, fresh steamed veggies, and lentil soup [Dal Baht], we headed for Namche Bazar (another 1450 ft. elevation gain), straight up hill. Namche Bazar is one of the largest villages on the trekking trail, sitting at 11,150 feet. It is the acclimation rest (minimum 2 days) for anyone climbing Everest from the Nepal side. Namche is also the first location for a good view of Mt. Everest.
Namche Bazar provided us some of our basic needs . . . water (200 rupees/2.60 US per 2 liter), snickers bars (250 rupees), Pringles potato chips (300 rupees), (all available for purchase at the tea houses and local shops), along with email service (100 rupees/$1.30 US per minute). Yeah!!! We were all so ready to let our families know how we were, where we were. I was hoping to hear back from my kids and my mom via my yahoo account, but that didn’t happen. We did find out at that time, while working on emails, that China had been shaken by an enormous earthquake, killing thousands. It was a bit alarming, but the countryside of Nepal did not seem at risk. After dinner (Water Buffalo, fried rice, steamed carrots and spinach, and canned mango), we all headed straight to bed, by 8:00 P.M., and we all slept extremely well, due the trek of over 2400 feet, straight up hill, along with the culture shock of Nepal and elevation (11,150 ft). It rained all night.
Day 3 of trek, May 17, 2008 – 4:30 a.m.
Still at Namche Bazar, hike planned to acclimate. There were so many noises and smells this early! Horns of worship, cow bells, music, merchants opening their shops, roosters crowing, metal pounding rock (for the block stones to build homes and tea houses), and large quantity of incense smells just outside our thin, single-sheet plywood walls. Gerri and I were awake and ready to wash some clothing, AND our hair, after our daily act of reading our bibles and praying. It must have worked, as the rain stopped, and we had big blue skies.
After our ritual 7:30 a.m. breakfast of porridge and toast or Tibetan bread with honey, Pem and his Sherpa-in-training, Nhongpre guided us from Namche to Sargamartha National Forest, where the Nepali army was in full patrol – due to the recent Chinese Olympic protests, the ongoing Maoist movement protests, and the continuous Tibetan protests. There was barbed and razor shaped wire intertwined, surrounding the border area. The soldiers held loaded AK 47s and M-16’s. We were not allowed to take photos in that area. Uncomfortable, as were, the view of Mt. Everest and Lots, after they broke through the clouds, was monumental, and worth it!!! The stress of the politics was a bit unnerving to me, as I had been following the Maoist movement since the Royal Massacre in 2001. I told myself to not worry, God will protect us all. He wouldn’t lead us that far away from home to have anything happen to us. We then proceeded uphill to visit the Everest Hotel, where we stopped for “milk tea” and “hot lemon.”
The visit was short, but restful, at the Everest Hotel/tea house. We then headed down the canyon to visit a town called Khumjung, a famous, wealthy Nepali town, where Sir Edmund Hillary built a high school. Of course, Pem knew people there too, so he had us eat at his friend’s establishment, the Everest Bakery. We consumed the bakery food like a bunch of pigs. We had tomato soup with noodles and garlic, braided cheese bread, cinnamon rolls, cho-Danish (chocolate Danish), and of course milk tea and hot lemon.
We then proceeded to the Hillary High School after lunch. The buildings inside the schoolyard – all fenced in three foot stone walls, were each donated and/or funded by foreign country organizations (i.e. Japan, funded the science building, Tokyo, funded the electronic/computer building, and Belgium, funded the arts center, etc). We all then proceeded through to the end of the schoolyard, where Pem, Nhongpre and the seven of us were invited to play a volleyball game with the boy’s high school volleyball team. Of course the Nepalese boys beat us American amateurs, hands down. The trip back up the mountainside to Namche Bazar was so far the worst. We had over 4000 stone stairs to climb, up and out of Khumjung, then trekked the plateau back to Namche. We gained approximately 1000 feet of elevation total that day. Great for acclimatizing!
Day 4 of Trek, May 18, 2008 – 5:30 am
Up at 5:30 and ready by 7:30 a.m., with all of our duffle bags packed and ready for our Sherpas. Today we would trek to Thyangboche (12,401 ft), a 1251 foot elevation gain. Thyangboche was just near the tree line, and usually fogged in, during the Monsoon. We were nearing the monsoon season, within days so we were prepared for damp, cooler weather. The five mile stone trail uphill, was beautifully surrounded by pink, white and red rhododendrons (Nepal’s National Flower), the size of apple trees. It was a difficult day, but full of surprises. Along the trek to Thyangboche, we were lucky enough to meet the oldest and famous “ice doctor.” He was resting in the shade from his recent trek to Everest Base Camp. He was one of the Sherpas whom fix the ladders on the ice fall itself. There are five others, whom we did meet later, at Everest Base Camp. We also saw a Lama Monk being led down the trail. As we would soon find out, Thyangboche is the home to a beautiful Buddhist monastery, in which 52 monks were soon (the end of May, 2008) to join in celebration and prayer for peace throughout Nepal and the world. It was definitely a holy place of worship.
Day 5 of Trek, May 19, 2008 – 6:00 am
Elliott, the team member from Chicago, was sick overnight – due to the elevation (12,401 feet). He visited Dan and Brandi, our team EMT’s. They calmed him, as essentially he was in a panic from lack of oxygen, and from the wheezing in his lungs. Dan gave Elliott some Diamox, a medication to lessen altitude sickness. That was the first of our illnesses, except for two of our team members, earlier in the trip, had suffered from diarrhea. I have to admit, it was a rough night. Dogs barked all through the night, and I woke up 4 – 5 times gasping for air. Gerri said my breathing was different, and I had what is called high altitude sleep apnea. After breakfast we trekked higher and higher, for three hours, passing Pangboche, Tyaboche, and resting at Shomare (13,300 feet elevation). We passed caravans of Yaks, now, rather than Zubkas. Yaks are unable to survive well below the 12,000 foot level. We reached our destination, Dingboche (14,500 feet elevation) at approximately 2:00 P.M. Unfortunately, two of our seven team members were ill. Dan was losing too much muscle, as he was so fit for the trip, with little to no fat to burn, causing weakness, dizziness, and diarrhea. Elliott, was also dehydrated, weak, dizzy, and had diarrhea. Our team was nervous we would have to split up, leaving Dan and Elliott back a day to acclimatize.
Dingboche was quaint. It provided most of what we needed, especially our own toilet (no sink), IN our rooms. The wooden cots were still the same as all the other tea houses, but each bed had a beautiful, bright colored, thick blanket, along with the thin mattress, to lay out our -20 sleeping bags. Other than bed bugs to worry about, it was nice to have a bit more cushion, and toilet privacy. Pem and the other Sherpas left us to meet up with their friends and play a game or two of Schooner (similar to pool). What I never understood, and Pem could not explain, was how a 1600 lb. marble schooner table was Sherpa’d up to Dingboche.
Day of rest in Dingboche. The day was colder, yet clear enough to see the enormous, majestic mountains surrounding us. From the tea house deck, we could see Lhotse, Island Peak, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and others. The snow showed recent signs of avalanche and rock fall. The Khumbu mountain region began to make me very anxious about climbing Island Peak. Also, the Sherpas and villagers were all “horking” to get the fluids out from deep in their lungs, due to the elevation and time spent in the Khumbu (a.k.a. the Khumbu cough). Incidentally, I wondered if I should even be there with my serious, chronic asthma. Each day was becoming a concern for me and my health. Once again, I needed to finish with faith.
The remainder of the day, after breakfast, we washed our hair, played cards (Pem’s favorite — the game of war) and Farkel (a dice game we shared with the Sherpas), and learned some Sherpa language. Apparently there are only two languages in Nepal, Nepali and Sherpa (however, each village has its unique version of Sherpa). Chyangba Sherpa 1 – 10 is; ick, due, tin, char, ponz, chaa, shat, att, no,and das. Namaste (hello and goodbye), Toche (thank you), ng ching dou (I have to pee), Long dou (enough), La, la (ok, ok), and pipkee (let’s go). Unfortunately, the Sherpa language can only be learned from a visit to Nepal.
Day 7 of the Trek, May 21, 2008 – 5:30 am
The weather was changing. It was now cold, foggy, and overcast. Dan and Elliott were much better, but both looked as if their cheeks were sinking in, and their frames were shrinking. Today the plan was to trek from Dingboche, after packing up our duffle bags, and purifying water (or boiling it) for our nalgenes, to Loboche (16,200 feet), then to Kalapathar to see the best view of Mt. Everest (and acclimate). Within 1.5 hours, we arrived at Loboche (uphill, and high in elevation). It was a solemn day. We had been playing leap-frog with a team of French doctors and their Sherpas all day long. We reached a village just before Loboche and saw a man pass us on the trekking trail riding a horse. Apparently, he was a Sherpa doctor, but he was unable to save the Sherpa, one traveling with the French doctor team. The Sherpa died of altitude sickness – a blood clot to his brain. Also, we had trekked by the memorials of those whom had lost their lives on Mt. Everest, with Scott Fisher’s front and center. The day was very eerie. We trekked well, but we were sad. That day we not only gained another 1700 feet, but we gained respect and an unexplained strength from the highest peak in the world . . . Mt. Everest.
Some time during the day, Marius had taken ill. He was the team member from Germany. He felt weak and dehydrated, along with having diarrhea. He was instructed to eat soup and drink more water, and then he went straight to his room and slept all through the remainder of the day and night. We ditched the plan to trek to Kalapathar (18,200 feet), as the weather turned worse, and it was now snowing. Instead, we chose to visit Gorak Shep (16,920 feet), hike to the Khumar Ice Glacier, and back to Loboche — not quite enough elevation gain to acclimate, but Pem had friends in Gorak, and he felt we all were doing “pretty ok” – except for Marius. He kept a watch on Marius the remainder of the night. The air was much thicker and colder for all of us. We knew if we were going to finish our task to base camp, we would have to pace ourselves differently; we would now take the trek nice and slow.
Day 8 of Trek, May 22, 2008 – 5:00 am
Today, no breakfast. Just hot lemon water and biscuits, to give us some energy before leaving for Everest Base Camp. I also chose to eat a snickers bar for protein and energy. We all were VERY hungry by the time we made it the 2 hour trek to Gorak Shep (again). There we had breakfast and left for base camp by 9:30 a.m. The seven of us, our Sherpas, and a stray dog (which followed us all the way to base camp), began the journey we came to Nepal for – Everest Base Camp – to raise money to rebuild a school, and change children’s lives.
Marius was extremely dehydrated and ill, but he was determined to make it to base camp. Pem sent him ahead of us, along with another Sherpa. We made it to the “gate” of base camp within 2.5 hours (18,200 feet), up and over the glacier, rock fall, and crevasses, and we were met with hot tea before entering onto the sacred “tent city” and the Ice Fall. Everest Base camp was indescribably beautiful. The white peaked ice fall, as a background to the orange, yellow, and red tents and colorful pray flags blowing everywhere, was breathtaking, yet eerie. The smell of decomposing bodies in a couple of areas, walking the glacier area near the ice fall, made Brandi and I gag. I didn’t notice garbage anywhere, like I had previously heard was so prevalent, but the smell would not leave my memory. Once I saw the ice fall with my own eyes, I understood how many lives have, and can be lost, just in the ice fall alone – not to mention, those who attempt the summit of Everest. The climbers have to cross the ice fall 12 times, before staying at the next camp. We heard the echoing of rock and ice fall, the full 2 hours we visited Wongchu Sherpa, of Peak Productions, and his colleagues, while we ate lunch (tuna pizza on rice tortillas, and mango for dessert). Marius was still not well, so we cut our visit short, missing the Everest Bakery at Base Camp. We got back to Gorak Shep by 4:30 p.m. (making it a 9.5 hour trekking day).
Day 9 of Trek, May 23, 2008 – 5:30 am
VERY, VERY drained . . . all of us. Marius, however . . . a bit better than the prior day. We were up early, all anticipating the Island Peak climb next. Dan was losing significant weight, along with Marius. Gerri and Brandi were also noticeably thinner. Elliott and I, however, seemed to have leveled out, me more than he. Originally, there were only three of us (Dan, Elliott and me – Julie) going to attempt the climb/summit, but once we ate breakfast and discussed the day/trek with Pem and the other Sherpas in the toasty warm tea house, Lee, Marius, and Brandi (Dan’s wife) all decided they wanted to attempt the climb up Island Peak, as well. Gerri would continue to photograph, and stay back at Island Peak Base Camp. It all seemed easy enough to change plans, except for Pem’s part . . . he had to scramble to get more Sherpas, equipment, and to call Kathmandu for permits. By the time we trekked to Chukhung (17,530 feet) for the day, Pem was able to get in touch with his best friend, Dendi Sherpa, and his brother, via cell phones. After getting things settled with three more climbers, permits, and equipment (a two hour ordeal, as Lee changed his mind at least 10 times – really), Brandi, Marius and Lee tried on boots, crampons and harnesses to prepare for Island Peak. The next day was Island Peak Base Camp, so we all went to bed immediately following the drama.
Up early, washed, ate and left for Island Peak Base Camp (IBC). Things were hectic, and we all were moving slowly, due to the elevation (still at 17,530 feet). Diamox was now our friend. The girls only 1⁄2 a tablet, the guy’s one whole tablet. The Diamox has to be taken the prior evening – before elevation gain to work properly for altitude sickness, but unfortunately it works similar to a diuretic. We all were up urinating the whole night, so . . . not much sleep. Pem and 1⁄2 of the Sherpas left earlier than our expedition team, to run off to IBC to set up tents and prepare food for our arrival. The trek was long but not strenuous. In fact, Base Camp was only at 16,305 feet – only. We were met at the “entrance” of camp with hot tea – actually hot grape Tang. Interesting! After a quick briefing in the Mess Tent, Pem instructed us to take a nap until about 1:00 P.M., when we would practice fixed line climbing with a jumar, and equipment check.
Sleeping would have been no problem, but the two Tibetan Snow Grouse pecking outside of our tents, tempted us, as we were all protein deprived, Gerri, Dan, Brandi, and I came up with a plan to kill and roast them ourselves. Brandi and Gerri were both raised on farms, and Dan hunts for a favorite pastime. I was simply just hungry for fresh meat. Pem finally caught onto our plan and reminded us that the Snow grouse are sacred. We then fell into our tents and slept for 3 hours. Up for practice, a hardy meal (cheese spring rolls, sardines, egg fried rice, mushroom/garlic soup, and mangos), then back to bed until midnight, when we would start our climb up Island Peak. Gerri and I had both caught head and chest colds, so she was more than happy to be staying at IBC while I attempted a 4,000 foot elevation climb to 20,305 feet.
Day 11 of Trek (ISLAND PEAK), May 25, 2008 – 12:00 am
Too anxious to sleep, and up too often —due to the Diamox, I was wide awake at 11:00 P.M. I lay restless for 45 more minutes, and then decided to get dressed. At exactly 12:00 midnight, Pem called for wakeup. Thank God I had batteries, and an extra headlamp, as the Sherpas guiding us has low light on two out of four lamps. Once other equipment was checked, we had Sherpa porridge, toast, and hot tea, and we prayed as a team (both Christian and Buddha), we were off. Pem’s goal was to summit by 8:00 a.m.
The trek was immediately 60% + slope – up hill, all rock, skree, and boulders (for 4 hours). The Sherpas lead us up and over an extremely exposed ledge, then to a safe area (near high base camp—of which we skipped for some reason) to put on harnesses, crampons, and rope up for glacier travel. Pem decided on rope teams at that point. The four guys on one team with PK Sherpa and Gombu Sherpa, and Brandi and I on the other, with Pem and Dendi Sherpa as our guides.
Crossing the glacier was cold, very cold – I was in my arctic down and layered underneath. The pace across the glacier was too fast for my short little legs, but I didn’t complain (which I would regret later). The snow was fresh, and Pem did not kick-step the snow, which made it much more difficult for me – the second one in on the rope team (I kicked stepped for Brandi). I had exhausted myself by the time we reached the ice wall. Pem and Dendi saw how tired I was, so they chose to take my backpack of water. I took one last drink of water, which would be the last drink for over four hours — another gravely mistake. It was now 5.5 hours into our climb. We were still on schedule.
The ice wall was also extremely challenging. I took one look up the ice, and seeing it was over three football fields in length, I surprisingly said to Pem, “Are you kidding me?” No, he said, “its ok.” I looked at Brandi, and then looked at Dendi, and I proceeded up the ice, following Lee, Marius, and Elliott. Brandi cheered me on, “Come on, Momma, you can do it!” I was so exhausted I would go twenty feet, then rest. I finally reached the top of the ice wall, and saw I only had approximately two hundred foot snow ridge to tackle.
My brain was working faster than my hands and feet at that elevation. But, being on a fixed (1/4 inch twine) line, and with the help of Dendi Sherpa and his jumar, the last of the attempt seemed safe and doable. However, forgetting I was at such a high elevation, and dehydrating by the minute, I climbed in spurts. It was ugly. I walked, crawled, cried, and laughed. Finally, I made it to the summit (at 7:30 am – ½ hour ahead of schedule) with Brandi and Dan at my heels. Lee, Elliott and Marius were crying and cheering us on, waiting on the summit. We all cheered, cried, and laughed together. I looked at Pem and said, “If it weren’t for the children, I would have never made it up here!” He asked how much I earned. I told him $1000 with this climb. He said, “That is enough to build a new library!” We all hugged then took photos with our Sherpas. Dan prayed and gave a special recognition in remembrance of his brother. Then we made our descent.
The descent is when all hell broke loose. Brandi and I went first, as my hearing was getting worse, and I felt distant from my body. Pem kept reassuring me that it was a “normal” feeling over 20,000 feet in elevation. Still, Brandi and Dan, our EMT’s knew I needed to get down, as my brain was swelling. I slipped on the snow ridge, did a summersault, and Dendi and the fixed line caught me from falling down the ridge. I laughed, but then things became difficult. My brain was instructing, but my hands and feet were not cooperating. I forced myself to get down to the ice fall, remembering there was no way out but my own two feet – or a helicopter. At the ledge of the ice wall, and after Brandi and Dan repelled first, Lee and Marius yelled at me to let Elliott go before me, as he was really sick. I somehow pulled the words together to let them know how sick I was, and to say that I had already let Dan go ahead of me, due to his level of deterioration. When I was on repel, I remember Brandi yelling up to me from below to tell me to relay to Pem that Dan was really sick, and that he needed to get off the mountain right away. I managed to follow the task, and I wondered at the same time, if my arm and hand would hold my weight on the repel rope. I was scared, and exhausted. I rested two or three times on repel, with Lee, Marius and Elliott getting frustrated from above. Finally, I joined Dan and Brandi at the base of the ice wall. Dan was bad! I found my water, but still did not drink any. I told myself I would after the glacier. Everyone repelled, roped up on the same team, and the headed across the glacier. Gombu nearly fell into a crevasse, and Brandi saved the day. Dan, Marius, Elliott, Lee and I were all sick by the time we reached the rock. Brandi, once again, was our hero. I could hear Gombu Sherpa say, “Julie, please take off your crampons,” but I could not get my feet or body to move. Brandi had been nursing Dan, looked over at me and knew I was dehydrated or something. She brought me the last of her water and a 1⁄2 of snickers bar. It helped for about 5 minutes, but then my body would not cooperate again. Not to mention, I was crying sporadically. Brandi was worried and asked the Sherpas for help. Gombu saw I had deteriorated with altitude sickness, discussed it with Pem, and then he was instructed to hand-guide me down the rock fall. Not once did Gombu Sherpa let go of my hand. I was finally safe at 16,400 feet, thanking God, Gombu and my friends. I could talk again. I felt strange but improved. With altitude sickness, and in which 5 out of 6 of us encountered, Pem needed us to pack up camp and descend to Dingboche.
We were met at Island Base Camp by the Sherpas and Gerri . . . what a thrill. We hugged and cried. THE CHILDREN OF CHYANGBA WILL NOW HAVE A NEW LIBRARY! Lives will be changed forever. The Sherpas were grateful. It was an exhilarating experience. We had no time to really embrace and celebrate the moment, however, so we packed up camp and trekked back to Dingboche (another 6 – 8 hours). It was grueling, after climbing to the summit of Island Peak. In fact, Elliott was still so weak; he was carried by Pem and other Sherpas, for nearly a mile of the trek down. Dingboche seemed impossible to reach. I really thought that, for the first time ever, I could collapse from exhaustion, and fall asleep right there on the trekking trail. Finally, at 6:00 P.M. we reached Dingboche. I ate no dinner, but went straight to bed. I lied in my bed shivering with the chills, and weak from dehydration, causing a fever. My body was shutting down. I needed rest. Lots and lots of rest.
Day 12 of Trek, May 26, 2008 – 6:00 am
Pem wanted to get us up and on the trekking trail, back to Namche Bazar. He knew we were all at risk for blood clotting for the next three days, with our altitude sicknesses, and with our weak, protein deprived bodies. The sooner he could get us to a lower elevation the better. Plus, the events to come (May 28th) in Thyangboche (the 50+ monks visit to the monastery), and the ½ marathon from Everest Base Camp to Thyangboche, would leave the trekking trail crowded with triple the Sherpas, along with more caravans of zubkas and/or donkeys. We trekked from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Brandi, our expedition hero, sprained both of her poor little ankles, on the descent to Namche. My cold had not improved, nor did Gerri’s. We now sounded like the local Khumbu coughers. We were miserable and exhausted. Dan was weak from losing even more weight and muscle. Our trek back to Namche included 15 major uphill battles, and we were sure to count each one. Once in Namche, we settled into the tea house, we took hot showers; we played a game of Farkel, and went to bed (9:00 p.m.).
Day 13 of Trek, May 27, 2007 – 6:00 m
Up early, once again, to trek from Namche Bazar, back to Lukla. The 15 Sherpas were all hyped up, as this was that tail end of their trekking season. We were their last expedition for the summer, and they finally could go home to their families, and relax from their heavy loads. All of us (now 20+ lbs. lighter), were feeling much better, except for Gerri. Gerri’s cold was getting the best of her. I had taken all my antibiotics and antivirus pills, to fight whatever cold I had off. It seemed to work. Lee, Marius and Elliott had jointly decided not to continue onto Chyangba, the village where we were to help re-build the school and build/fund to build a new library. In fact, it was Elliott’s birthday, so he started celebrating immediately upon arrival at Lukla. After Pem rearranged flight schedules (for the third time), he joined the celebration. He even had a cake made for Elliott’s 22nd birthday. Our last visit to celebrate with Elliott was a quaint little bar, where the locals played schooner, and where celebrities had visited. Sting/The Police had autographed a T-Shirt, which hung proudly on the pub wall, from their recent visit (April 2008) to Nepal. Crazy!!!
The following day, we all parted via Yeti Airlines – three for Kathmandu, four expedition team members and of the Sherpas to Phaplu, to continue on to Chyangba, and the others ( of the Sherpas) by foot (a three day trek) to Chyangba. Our flight to Phaplu was delayed, but Lee, Marius, and Elliott made it safely out of Lukla to Kathmandu, where they would stay with Pem’s wife at her family’s hotel, The Himalayan Guest House. Once we were in flight to Phaplu, the flight lasted a mere 6 minutes. The landing strip was gravel and dirt, making for a very hard, rough landing. There were mounds of Nepali people waiting to board the 25 seat flight out. Pem said the sick, three on stretchers, would be allowed to go first, then “first come, first serve” so to speak. The flight was free to locals, however, there were only three airlines that flew into Phaplu, and each only once a week. It saddened me to see people turned away, once the flight was full.
May 28, 2008
Well, there we were . . . in Phaplu, with no Sherpas to carry our bags. Pem said he could get them, but I looked around and it would have been Pem, Dendi, Chokba, Nhongpre, Pasang, Phude, and Nema to carry all the supplies, and our bags. It would be too much for them, so Dan, Brandi, Gerri and I lugged our own. That is when I realized the 80 pounds of luggage, was just too much. We hiked up the small hillside, which sat near the airport. There was a tea house close. Once we arrived, Pem was taken aside by a couple of Education leaders of the Chyangba region. Apparently the tea house where Pem scheduled for us to stay would be unsafe, as the Maoists had just asked the King of Nepal to step down from his reign. He agreed, and he only had 15 days to do so. That caused schools to close immediately, shops to close, parades to form, protesters and politicians to line the street, along with armed city and state police. The four of us, very white Americans – especially me, the only blonde hair, blue-eyed American, seemed vulnerable, and somewhat in danger. Our moods immediately changed. We were scared, depressed, and helpless. The computers didn’t work, phones didn’t work. The Nepalese flew their communist, Maoist flags, and marched in the streets. What could we do but leave for Chyangba?! Pem said that it would be the safest place for us anyway. So, we went to bed early that night, amongst the enormous spiders and beetles, to avoid any confrontation(s). We left for Chyangba the following morning.
May 29, 2008
We managed to get emails to our families before we left, into the jungle, up and around the Himalayas. New news, after a very restless, anxious night’s sleep, was “explosions and bombings of protest in Kathmandu”, “200 of 500 Tibetan women arrested in Kathmandu”, due to protesting, “10,000 troops brought in to Kathmandu to keep peace in the capital, along with 20,000 more volunteers” – to hold off any rioting. We walked and walked through village after village, to get to Chyangba. The feeling was eerie. The villagers were listening to their radios, and just quietly watched us, staring at the four Education Elevated team members – white as we could be, walking through with our trekking poles and packs. The terrain was rugged, steep, hot and muggy. Along with the heat and Monsoon season, we all were getting eaten from the blood sucking jungle bugs, which we had not prepared for. We hiked down the mountain to the river, then back up again – many times, finally reaching Chyangba (8500 feet in elevation) 7 hours later. We were greeted warmly and fed immediately. This was Pem’s village, his family. We had reached our destination, and it was now time to prove to the Chyangba villagers, we were there to fulfill a promise . . . to change the lives of their children, one day at a time.
The remainder of our trek/expedition was helping and visiting Chyangba. We spent time with the children, hiked to their monastery, met the school teachers, painted the school, planned the changes and the construction of the new library, ate lots of potatoes, drank lots of “chang” – a home brew of potatoes, wheat, and corn, and danced and laughed lots with Pem’s family and Sherpas. Chyangba is truly a primitive, yet worthy place to contribute. We left Chyangba, June 3, 2008 with hopes to return some day . . . to see the smiles we were able to give to Pem’s village.
What do Pem Dorjee Sherpa, the first ever to be wed on Mt. Everest [2005, to Moni Mulepati-Sherpa, owner of the Himalayas Guest House in Kathmandu], and guide/director [Sherpa Adventure International], and lead Sherpa of Education Elevated Expedition I, Goran Kropp, Swedish climber who bicycled from Stockholm to Kathmandu and back, and ascended Mount Everest along the way, but tragically died on Sept. 30, 2002 in a mountaineering accident in Washington State at age 35, and Wong Chu Sherpa, Managing Director of Peak Promotions and Summit Team Sherpa of the Everest Imax Film have in common?
CHYANGBA VILLAGE.
Where is Chyangba Village? It is unmapped, but 8 – 10 miles northeast of Kathmandu – the capital of Nepal.
Chyangba is a small village (approximately 8500 feet above sea level, in the Himalayan mountains) near Mt. Evererst, and home to Pem Dorjee Sherpa and Wong Chu Sherpa. Pem and Wong Chu are close friends, and they both share a passion for rebuilding the school in Chyangba. This was the same dream of Goran Kropp one year prior to his tragic death, and the same dream of team, Education Elevated Expedition I (Gerri, Julie, Dan, Brandi, Lee, Marius, and Elliot). Not to mention the fourteen expedition sherpas whom joined the Education Elevated Team I (Nongpre, Pude, Nude, Karma, Nima, Pemba, Dendi and his brother PK, Lakba, Pemba, Pasang, Chokba, Gombu, and Pemba), all from Chyangba and surrounding villages.
There are over 300 children in and near Chyangba, needing an education, from the first grade age through the middle school age, with less than 75 children getting an education, due to a collapsing school, and availability of teachers. There are only five classrooms in the small elementary school, with room for up to 20 children per classroom, along with old, broken down, hand-carved/crafted wooden bench-style desks and seating. The two-story secondary school, named after Goran Kropp, with a poster of his Everest summit success still hanging, eerily in the administration office, is cracked, leaning, and nearly ready to collapse – due to lack of funds to maintain the building. After the tragic death of Goran in 2002, funds discontinued to Chyangba and their school. And the third building, an uncompleted, two-story, stone building , also in the school yard, has never been fully occupied, as the organization that promised to build a medical building and library combination, used the money from its contributors, for the initial construction, then left with the remaining funds for personal gain. Needless to say, this village people of Chyangba have been promised too many times, since Wong Chu Sherpa built the original school, a bigger and more upscale school and life, with complete disappointment every time. And, not until the Education Elevated Team I (Gerri, Dan, Brandi, and Julie) showed up to work with the people from the village, using bare hands, hoes, and yak skins, along with producing a visible small roll of cash, did the villagers, and surrounding villagers believe there was hope for a new library and school.
A combined effort of hard work, passion, time, love, (and cash) was all Chyangba needed to have a better school, a better way of life, a better future for the children, and a better future for Nepal. Even with the continuation of many young Maoists terrorizing small villages throughout Nepal, the Maoist party overtaking the Nepalese government, and forcing even the king to step down (June, 2008) — ending its monarchy, the takeover of Tibet from China, causing ongoing protests, bombings, and arrests, and with the poverty at an all-time high in Nepal, trekkers, tourists, mountaineers, and non-profit organizations have remembered Nepal. Chyangba Village will, with the recent efforts of those who helped raise money by climbing to Everest Base Camp and summit of Island Peak [20,305 ft] (www.educationelevated.org), have a new library for the children, new books, a remodeled administration office, a media room with a television and DVD’s, a newly leveled schoolyard for competitive volleyball, a fence, new desks and chairs, and open new doors for teacher availability. The love of two amazing sherpas, a deceased, but remembered climber and mountaineer, and those who donated and climbed for Education
Facts about Nepal and life as a Nepali: Pem Dorjee Sherpa gave us some heart to heart facts: (1) “It is good to have a child, as there is no insurance in Nepal, and it is how the Nepalese will be taken care of as they age and grow ill.” (2) There is little to no crime in Namche, the biggest village on the trekking trail.” (3) In Kathmandu, crime happens, but it takes too long for the police to arrive, not to mention no one is immediately arrested. And if a civilian has someone arrested, he and his family are responsible to feed that individual whom was arrested.” (4) “The casinos in Kathmandu are for the people of India. They go in with 5,000 rupees – for example, and usually come out tripling their money. They then cash their large check in India. The Nepalese are not allowed in the casinos.” (5) “There is upper class; middle class and lower class – however, the upper and lower class (or castes) have it better and easier than the middle class.” (6) “Nepali people have a tendency to discriminate against blacks and Israeli’s.” (7) Most Nepali meals are porridge and DalBaht; (8) a favorite alcohol is Roxie – similar to our Everclear.
Fact: Trek to Everest Base Camp and the return trip is just over 100 miles from Lukla.
Fact: Elevation at Lukla is 8200 feet, and at Everest Base Camp it is 18,200 feet — that’s 10,000 feet!
What to not leave home without: Plenty of Wet Ones, Q-tips (enough for the Sherpas), laundry soap, snicker’s bars, ultra violet water purifier, batteries for head lamps, hand sanitizer, minimum of two decks of cards, Farkel dice game, first aid kits (one for you, and one for your favorite Sherpa), dental floss (for the water buffalo that may get caught in your teeth, and enough to share with a Sherpa) , a good lightweight book, a dictionary to give to the lead Sherpa, kites, marbles, and jump ropes for the children, metal clasps to hold pvc piping together (for the village water systems), netting for the water tanks/holding tanks from the mountain springs, bug spray with deet, tennis shoes, flip flops, dark chocolate, gum and plenty of cash to buy water and tip the Sherpas.
THANK YOU, ONE AND ALL, ESPECIALLY THE PRAYER TEAMS AND OUR WONDERFUL SHERPAS – who saved my life. THANK YOU FOR YOUR PRAYERS, SUPPORT, AND BELIEF — WE CAN CHANGE ONE LIFE AT A TIME . . . FOR THE SAKE OF OUR FUTURE. AND, THANK YOU FOR REMEMBERING NEPAL!!! Please visit www.educationelevated.org.
For more information about trekking in Nepal contact:
SHERPA ADVENTURE INTERNATIONAL
Pem Dorjee Sherpa, Guide/Director www.sherpaadventuretravel.com Cell 977-9741 128403 (Nepal)
Cell (303) 990-2344 (USA) email: everestpemba@yahoo.com; info@sherpaadventuretravel.com
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