There are lots of philosophies on how to set the wall; the best rules I’ve found over the years are these:
Jibs (little screw on footers) are important! Be careful not to break them over-screwing. Buy several sets and cover your wall in them. These are an important part of your training experience. These will teach and demand the best from your footwork. When key jibs are worn out you can rotate them to make them harder, or provide more texture.
The biggest sized holds should be placed higher up on the wall so that you avoid bonking body parts on them and to avoid excessive foothold use/ rubber scuffing. Don’t ruin that wonderful set of jugs by using them low down on the wall, that goes for sensitive hold like slopers. For longevity these should usually be set up high feet can never touch them.
Carefully select the footers on your wall. Try to find the smallest hold that you can still use.
To get the most from your bouldering sessions keep the feet small through the bottom 3-4 feet of your wall. It makes you focus and forces you to high step.
To get the most from your bouldering sessions keep the feet small through the bottom 3-4 feet of your wall. It makes you focus and forces you to high step.
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