I first met Nicolas (Nico) Favresse – the legendary 26-year-old Belgian sport climber cum big wall free climber, who has redpointed 5.14d, and onsighted 5.13d sport — at sunset, in the fall of 2004 atop El Capitan. Nico and partner Séan Villanueva were topping out a team all-free ascent of Freerider (VI 12d 32 pitches), for their first time up El Cap (and only second week trad climbing – straight). They were two days overdue, out of water, and desperately low on food, so my partner and I shared our provisions. During the last rays of light, Séan, also from Belgium and Nico exchanged the camera (they say “cam-er-aa”) and did Yoga poses – Steph Davis-style – on the lip of Freerider, with the lights of the Fresno valley peppering the background.

After dinner, Nico pulled out his Djarango from one of their half-full haulbags, played a tune on the little guitar and sang. I asked Nico what language they spoke in Belgium. “Belgiumesh,” he replied, living up to his reputation as a jokester.

The next fall he was back, and I finally agreed to help him on his route L’appat (VI 5.13) on the Upper Yosemite Falls Wall (Hot Flashes, issue #245); this sustained testpiece remains unrepeated. Now, in February, 2006, Favresse and team have climbed the Patagonia route Riders on the Storm. In his witty, stylish way, he filled me in on the details of this and other Patagonian climbs with his partners Olivier Favresse (brother), Séan Villanueva, and Micke Lecomte: