Climbing

First ascents in the Changping Goa Valley

Text and Images By Ben Clark

In October 2006, Alpinists Ben Clark and Josh Butson ventured to the Quonglai Mountains in Western China's Sichuan Province. Clark, an Osprey and La Sportiva athlete inspired and encouraged by mentor Charlie Fowler, was on a quest for adventure and first ascents on virgin granite. The pair found what they were looking for and the adventure can now be viewed at: therestofeverest.com

Butson and Clark were the first pair to climb in the Changping Goa valley in "pure" Alpine style, eschewing the traditions of the past by hiking from the mouth of the valley unaided by horses. On the way to exploring the remote mountains the pair were robbed, pushed a Yugo over a 4000-meter pass in a blizzard, denied the permits they needed to climb the peak they wished to attempt, and on their first foray were actually chased out of the valley by a wild bull yak. When they returned unfased, the mountains were ripening into winter conditions, and the pair climbed on three peaks, making the first ascent of a peak they named "The Falcon" and establising the most technical mixed route the valley has seen, "Up the Gullet" a beautiful mixed climb that weighed in at AI5+, 5.7, M8. 

Viewers can follow along for the next two weeks on therestofeverest.com, a website dedicated to demystifying Clark's successful 2003 ascent of the mountain and its culture. At present, over 200,000 viewers have been following Clark's Everest ascent. The following are Clark’s photos f the Changping Goa valley.


Enlarge
A typical anchor.


Enlarge

Enlarge
 
 
 (req)
If I like Climbing, I'll pay just $14.95 and receive a full one-year subscription (10 issues in all) a 70% savings off the newsstand price! If for any reason I decide not to continue, I'll write "cancel" on the invoice and owe nothing.
PAY NOW AND GET
2 FREE BONUS ISSUES!
That's 12 issues in all, instead of 10, for the same low price of $14.95!
subscribe today
Get 2 free trial issues
plus a free gift!
subscribe today
Give a gift >>
Customer service >>
Enter Your Email for Our Free Newsletter
 
 
Get updates on your phone:
Add Climbing Magazine News Mippin widget



Special Offers
MyUCTV.com
Bouldering.com


DISTRIBUTE
Climbing Magazine







Visit other sports sites by Skram Media:

Climbing | Urban Climber | MyUCTV | Skram Media