Dancing with the locals during the Chinese New Year.
Photo by JT Baller
Many places in the world claim to be the ice climbers paradise, and even though I'm from Norway, which has some of the longest and most difficult waterfalls in the world, with routes up to 800 meters long, I must say that coming to China and finding several hundred ice walls of varying levels within 2 hours walk from your guesthouse is enough to take your breath away.
(The Dragon’s Breath has for example 6+ or 7+, should you get to try it)
The area I visited is situated in Central China in the high lands of Si Chuan is a two and a half hour flight from Beijing. The mountains pop up around you as you land at 500 meters above sea level in the city of Chengdu. The bus tickets are hard to buy, particularly because it is close to the Chinese New Year, where everyone wants to go home and celebrate with their families for the coming of the Pig Year starting mid Feb 2007.
Roasting a whole lamb outside
Photo by JT Baller
I got tickets for the last bus leaving at 10 AM the next morning. The bus ride took a little more than 8 hours and I soon started to feel the altitude as we were soon to cross a pass at more than 4400 meters above sea level. We even saw thee panda bears as we were passing Aba inhabitation, which specializes in saving these endangered animals. The roads bend like a snake as we get into the heart of this relatively unknown ice climbers paradise. The secret to all the ice walls are all the tall mountains surrounding this valley called Shuang Qiao Gou, close to the famous Si Gu Niang Shan, meaning four ladies that rise all the way up to 6250 meters.
The feast of Chinese New Year - plenty of food and drinks!
Photo by JT Baller
Walking up to one of the tops of the Four Ladies Mountain 5000+ meters above sea level together with a local guide. (I am here standing right under the 1st of the 4 tops to the right on the picture) We had started 0300 and 18 hours later and after having hiking more than 40 km we were back where we started and I was anticipating many more days of ice climbing.
Photo by JT Baller
I was not able to eat anything during my bus ride, as I felt the altitude hitting my stomach. I would rather throw up than put anything into my stomach. I drink patiently as I am waiting for my body to adjust to the guesthouse altitude at 3200 meters. I called it a day and went to sleep early hoping to wake up, fresh and well. However, the next morning, I rose, and still did not feel too well. Breakfast wasn't an option, but I gathered my gear hoping to feel better upon seeing the ice walls.
Photo by JT Baller
We drove 20 minutes, crossing a yak bridge walking for another 25 minutes up to one of the many hundred of ice walls in this valley. At 3400 meters I see the first climber start to lead the rope, but gives up after 10 meters up on the wall, exhausted from the short climb because of the altitude, and lack of oxygen ... although he was thoroughly excited at being here. Now is my chance, I forget my body is still not at full strength as I want take over where he left. I felt that he had hardly got started on these 40+ meters of 4+ and 5+ waterfalls, and I feel very lucky to have the opportunity to lead the double top rope.
One of the many waterfalls in the area, shining in the sun! The one in the middle I climbed later in that week. (3800 m above sea level).
Photo by JT Baller
The vast mountains surrounding us in the background, the ice wall rising into the sky in front of me, the challenge, it all made became all excited as I started to kick my M10 crampons into the ice. My heart was running wild as I started moving upwards in this high altitude, even the easy parts felt more difficult now. I start to forget about my high pulse as I start to concentrate on the ice above me. I am climbing monkey style, which is where I have both axes fixed in position before I climb on. The ice feels solid, even though it is sprinkled stalactites making it look like diamond facets. My new DMM axes felt solid in my hands, I hardly felt time pass as I am progressed up the ice. But it didn't take long before my glasses got filled with fog as the sweat was pressing out from everywhere. Half way up I found a good place to take a rest above an ice mushroom, it is a glorious moment, and I have many days left ahead of me climbing. I am deciding to make the safety at 45 meters. When I make myself ready to go back down I feel like a victories champion, winning my fight and the judges lifting my arm. I am standing alone at the top and raise my axes in the air getting ready for the decent back down to the join the other 6 climbers anticipating my return.
Myself in action on one of the many fantastic waterfalls.
Photo JT Baller Collection
Myself in action on one of the many fantastic waterfalls.
Photo JT Baller Collection
I am happy, but when I see my style on the video I see how tensed I have been climbing (Forgetting to rest on the legs) and how much unnecessary ice I have tear down (beating the ice feeling unsafe of the leading axe) I still feel I have a lot to improve. I have many days ahead and next day I will meet with better climbers than myself. Sky is 36; he has come here to climb every spring festival the last five seasons. We have met one time earlier climbing a 100 meter ice wall near Beijing around Christmas time.
Sky reaching for the Sky on a 45m 5+ route.
Photo by JT Baller
His style is fresh, wide legged making a triangle as he always seem to take time to rest before kicking high preparing for the next move upward. He has a film team of 3 with him from Beijing (even though he comes from Southern China) they are making an Instruction video for beginners. We will spend the next few days together.
I feel ready for action and am now acclimatized to the high altitude. We are driving a little down the valley but climb up the hillside to a beautiful wide waterfall which splits into at least 5 separate routes. I cannot wait for all the climbers to arrive. One living in the same guesthouse offers to give me safety and I am buckling up. Today feels different, I feel ready for a bigger challenge. I see a slim line at the left side with mix areas of rock and thin ice, mushrooms and other very edible stuff for a hungry climber. Today’s breakfast which is of ephemeral beauty, consists of curtains, stalactites, columns with a side order of cauliflowers.
I can only describe it as a unique exhilarating and exciting blood rushing experience. I love the days where I am able to leave the cell phone and laptop at the office and enjoy the rugged wild. The air is fresh, the sky is blue, and the sun is reflecting off the solid ice.
Sky reaching for the Sky in a 45m, 5+ route.
Photo by JT Baller
I have made the first route as the film team is moving half way up the ice to make a good angel for Sky's climb. One guy is setting the safety as the other is trying to carry the gear up the line. I get impatient waiting, and as the others are climbing my first line, I decide to set another somewhere in the middle, so as not to interfere with film team as they still trying to get all the equipment into place.
This is fun. I am enjoying the climbing more and more. The ice is crispy, long and steep! Not a single worry in the world, just here and now — climbing ice. It feels like the most important thing in the world. I start to think more about my climbing style. Relax, I tell myself, feel the axe, move up one level, then let the next axe goes in. Save the energy for higher up, it is still only 12 o'clock. Six hours later I rappel down after taking down the highest top rope ... What a day!
Someone has taken one of my ice screws and a locking carabiner — it bugs me. I ask around, but I don't ask the right person. Some days later the equipment shows again as it had been put into someone else’s bag.
Myself enjoying some hot tea to stay warm between pitches.
Photo JT Baller Collection
Myself enjoying some hot tea to stay warm between pitches.
Photo JT Baller Collection
After having stayed in China for the last 7 years, I am almost fluent in Chinese, but I still cannot remember all the names of all the ice walls the driver is telling me about as we pass by. He speaks local dialect, and makes it even harder to understand, as it is quite different from the standard mandarin Chinese. I stay with the locals; we pay $2 US for lodging and $2 US for food per day. The driver takes $1 US per person for driving and picking up. Expensive? Not! The whole stay all included with the flight from Beijing - Chengdu in rush season costs only $400 US for 6 days.
On the way back to civilization my boss is calling me from abroad telling me to have his report finished by the end of the week. I ensure him that it is in the very best hands, although my fingers are still a little stiff after holding on to the axe's for many days! I am writing this on the plane back to Beijing, as my thoughts keep drifting back to climbers’ paradise…
JT Baller, a Norwegian Citizen, has lived in Beijing China since 1998. A sportsman since childhood he now specializes in Chinese Economy and language. Working as CEO for an International Investment Company he can afford to take time off work to go climbing (rather than playing golf). Every year his goal is to climb at least one mountain above 5000 meters. The ultimate goal is to climb K2 in 2010.
This year JT would like to invite a maximum of eight other people to come for a technical climb of Bogeda 5445m in the first 2 weeks of August, 2007. Until now less than 40 people have been to the top of this peak. Price estimated at $2000 U.S.D. starting and finishing in Beijing. For more information please contact JT Baller: travelchinanow@gmail.com
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