Travel-Climbing in the Boot

ALTO ADIGE
The 3,000-foot-tall Dolomite Giants of Selva di Val Gardena, in Alto Adige, are a must-see -- rent a car, because there is climbing everywhere you turn. Dolomia, a type of limestone, is a highly featured rock, blessed with unique, water-sculpted grips; be prepared to experience some nuanced climbing on these great walls.  The classics in this area include: the multi-pitch adventure climbs of Le Tre Torri del Vajolet Turm, also known as the “three sisters,” in the Catinaccio mountain; Torre Delago (5.5), Torre Stabler (5.5), and Torre Winkler (5.6), a historical climb that was the first of its grade in Italy when it was climbed, around 1880; and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (5.10a), one of the most picturesque climbs in the valley. Another is the famous Via Comici on the Sasso Lungo (5.10), also called “La via della Goccia,” which directly translated means: the route a drop of water would take on a straight line down the wall.  I have also always been intrigued by the Messner direct (5.10d) on the iconic Marmolada. 

Suggested Routes: Val Gardena not only offers historical, multi-pitch climbs, but if you are more of a single pitch, sport-type of guy, then visit Piz Civazes (an outdoor climbing park), a perfect winter cross-training facility. 

Also, the newly developed 200- to 400-meter routes in Vallunga, near the town of Selva di Val Gardena, provide a great afternoon workout.  For a blocista there is Citta` dei Sassi, near Passo Sella, an irresistible and enchanting valley littered with boulders as if by a god playing jacks.  This area has recently been developed by Swedish climbers Stefan Pettersson and Tomas Gustavsson, who in five days opened 113 new problems between V0 and V11, 29 of which are V6 or harder.