Climbing
Above & Beyond
Legends of the Costa Blanca
Text and Photos by Dougald MacDonald

The view of Calpe from the summit of Peñon d’Ifach: A great top-out for a long climb, or a good day hike from town.

The Costa Blanca, a 50-mile swath of beaches and limestone cliffs on Spain’s eastern coast, between Murcia and Valencia, is one of the great winter climbing destinations of the world. Well-known to Brits and northern Europeans, who flock to these sun-drenched cliffs to escape dreary winters, the area is rarely visited by North Americans. This is a mistake. The Costa Blanca is not terribly expensive and offers an enormous diversity of climbing, from well-bolted slabs to tufa-pulling test pieces, and from sea cliffs to 10-pitch trad climbs, all on solid limestone. It’s a particularly good place for a climbing vacation, with lots of moderate routes, plentiful rest-day activities, and even “holiday grades” at most of the crags. 

Almost nothing has been written about the Costa Blanca in the United States. This primer, based on a trip last Christmas, will sort out the facts from the myths. 


Enlarge
A climber nearing the anchors on Elendgliches (6a+/5.10b), a classic at Alicalí. The buildings in the background, sadly, are not Moorish villas but small holiday homes.

The Costa Blanca has perfect winter climbing weather.
Fact, but not a universal fact.
When the winter weather is good, it’s great for climbing, with warm but not too hot, sunny days and often a nice breeze. It’s also possible to choose sunny and shady crags to optimize conditions. 

The best bets are late fall (November) and late winter (February-March); the latter can be crowded, but the orchards will be blooming beautifully. At Christmas, the days are short and if you’re unlucky you may be hit with the dreaded gota fria, which, as much as I wish it meant “cold goat,” actually means “cold drop”—a period of several days of chilly, rainy, windy weather. Snow may fall at the higher crags. 

If this happens, you’ll do some sightseeing. Best bets: Take the train to Valencia and tour the beautiful and architecturally fascinating downtown, or drive to the ancient hilltop town of Guadalest and hike to its crag-top castle and cemetery. 



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