You have to carry stoppers to clip some of the bolts. What’s up with that?
Fact, but fortunately this is not widespread. Rowland Edwards, one of the major route developers in the area, developed the ENP, a sort of hangerless bolt, in an effort to create low-impact climbs. A drilled hole is filled with a steel tube and a spring mechanism; slot a No. 3 Wild Country Rock into the tube and twist it into place, and then clip the wire. The guidebook marks routes that may require use of ENPs. These are gradually being replaced, but bring some wires anyway. 

You need a car to climb in Costa Blanca.
Fact. Unless you camp at Sella, you’ll want a car. We found the best deals through the British rental companies, such as www.carjet.com or www.easycar.com. 

The towns on the Costa Blanca are hideous tourist traps.
Myth. The forest of bizarre apartment towers and hotels in beachfront Benidorm, like a set from a Star Trek movie, has tainted the image of the entire Costa Blanca for those who might like a taste of Spanish culture and not some low-rent East Vegas. Fortunately, it’s easy to escape this madness by heading to the hills. We rented a casita at Finca la Asmoladora (www.finca-la-asmoladora.com) near Parcent, a beautiful small village about 20 minutes into the hills from the coast, very close to some excellent crags (Alicalí and Peña Roja, among others). The British owners of this place, Pam and Derek Carthwaite, also helped us enormously when our gear was stolen (see below). A casita is a great way to go: You can cook your own meals when you don’t want to go out, and, especially if you share one with friends, they’re very affordable. 

The hill towns of Sella and Finestrat also make good bases, and the latter is quite close to the coastal highway, which minimizes driving time to various crags. We also thought Calpe was interesting (the busy port and nightly fish auction are very cool) and conveniently located; avoid the soulless beachfront area, and try to find a place near the main town. 

If it’s nightlife you’re after, the coastal towns are the place to go.