Climbing
Above & Beyond
Mt. Everest Weather Reports for Spring 2008
Daily weather reports and dispatches for the Mount Everest region by Michael Fagin
Weather Services — www.everestweather.com

CURRENT TIME IN NEPAL

Forecasts for the Mt. Everest Region

5/15/08 —Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -23 C winds 26 knots from the west. Clouds moving in and out of the region

5/14/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C winds 30 knots from the west. Clouds moving in and out of the region

5/13/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C , winds 34 knots from the southwest some cloud

5/12/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C , winds 32 knots from the southwest some clouds

5/11/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C , winds 40 knots from the southwest some clouds

5/09/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 34 knots from the southwest and cloudy to partly cloudy

5/08/08 — Flame reaches top of Everest - Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 38 knots from the southwest and clouds moving in and out of the region. The Chinese reach the summit Thursday morning, May 8. Check out the video

5/07/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -27 C, winds 44 knots from the southwest and cloudy to partly cloudy

5/06/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 30 knots from the southwest and cloudy to partly cloudy

5/05/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 28 knots from the west and some high clouds

5/02/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 30 knots from the west and mostly clear for now. See image for the path of tropical cyclone Nargis which is forecast to make landfall at Yangen, in the country of Myanmar on late today Friday May 2 and into Saturday May 3. There will be wind gusts up to 140 knots. Also see the associated satellites photo.

5/01/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 64 knots from the west and some clouds


Enlarge
5/02/08

4/30/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 56 knots from the west and some clouds

4/29/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 56 knots from the west and cloudy to partly cloudy. Also a tropical depression is located in the Bay of Bengal which is south of Mt. Everest. However this should not have a direct impact on Everest outside of bringing a chance of precipitation for later in the week

4/28/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -30 C, winds 62 knots from the northwest and some high clouds moving in and out of region. Also a tropical depression is located in the Bay of Bengal. However this should not have a direct impact on Everest outside of bringing a chance of precipitation for later in the week

Older weather forecasts on next page

Why Our Forecasts Are Unique and Accurate:

  • We review a medium of 6 forecast models and at many more at times. This takes more time but the accurate results are well worth it. We know of no other forecasts that are produced with this detail and time commitment.
  • Being a mountaineer, I know the value of precise detailed forecasts and I know the type of content climbers want.
  • Each forecast uses a weighted average of the forecast models based on the accuracy of each forecast model.
  • After each forecast is made, it is analyzed with actual weather conditions to determine the accuracy of each forecast and what needs to be done to improve each forecast.
Climbing.com's weather forecast and dispatches are sponsored by:
Alpine Ascents; International Mountain Guides; Project Himalaya

Photos courtesy of MountainGuides.com

Dispatches from Mt. Everest

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Stocking Upper Camps for Summit Bids
May 14, 2008
IMG Leaders Tucker and Jangbu report that the big build-up at the South Col continues, with 19 Sherpas successfully making the Big Carry today. There is getting to be a good supply of oxygen and gear up there now, with more on the way! Over the next few days we hope to complete the stocking of Camp 3 and Camp 4 in preparation of the summit bids. For tomorrow, we have 14 Sherpas heading back to the Col and 9 going to Camp 3. Hahn and Nicky are now at C2, heading for C3 tomorrow. All the IMG climbers are now back to BC, with the exception of Casey and crew, who will be back tomorrow from their trip down valley. We'll keep you posted!
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Climbers Acclimatizing and Watching the Weather
May 13, 2008
IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports that after some snowstorm last night, which made things questionable this past morning, the Sherpas at C2 decided to pull the trigger on the Col carry. They left at 5am from C2 and nine of them climbed to the Col today — we now have 29 cylinders of O2 up there. Chip/Jamling, Vance/Pemba Dorje are back to C2 from their overnight at C3. Justin, Dean, Jaroslaw, Val, and Hamill went to C3 today and are back to C2.
Tomorrow we have 22 sherpas climbing from C2 to the Col. All the team members currently at C2 will be coming back to BC tomorrow. Dave and Nicky are now at C1, going to C2 tomorrow. Casey and crew are still R and R down in Pheriche. Eben and the trekkers are at Gorak Shep.
The forecast from our custom forecaster Michael Fagin (www.everestweather.com) suggests that we will continue to see some moisture coming up from Bay of Bengal, so there will be intermittent snowfall, but the jet stream is out of the region with no signs of it being over Everest for the next 7 to 10 days.

Dispatch from Project Himalaya
12 May - This weather
Today was meant to be a big day, the sherpas at C2 were going to carry to South Col. The emphasis is on big, a climb from 6400m to 7900m and back, but at 2am it was gusty, foggy and blowing lots of snow, not suitable conditions for crossing the Lhotse Face.
Neither were conditions any good at BC, where Dawa and Tawa woke up at 2am for a load carry to C2. They bailed.
The rest of us were under no such conditions and Jamie's rousing at 9am was not appreciated. Except that the Spanish omelet really was rather nice (and authentic - thanks, Sarki!). We discussed the latest conditions and have made plans, we will stay low for at least a few days. Raphael headed to Dingboche for a couple of nights to clear a cough and possible sinus infection; he didn't descend the last time most of us did.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Sherpas Carrying to Col; Climbers Going Higher
May 11, 2008
IMG Leaders Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker report: today was a Big Day — the route the the South Col (Camp 4) is now in and IMG sherpas Phunuru, Mingma Tenzing and Nima Karma have already put some loads up there!! If the weather is good we have 8 sherpas carrying to the Col tomorrow: Gyalzen Dorje, Dawa Nuru, Arita, Kancha Nuru, Ang Nima, Phinjo, Panuru and Mingma Tshering. Tomorrow we have 17 more IMG Sherpas moving up to C2 from BC for a few days of Big Carries to the Col. These guys will each make several round trips to the Col from C2, with the fastest ones able to carry two O2 cylinders from C2 to the Col and return to C2 in 7 hours. Incredible! Some of sherpas may do more — they make a lot of bonus money doing these C4 carries, so this is where the strongest ones really rack up the cash. We will not actually establish Camp 4 until it is time to occupy the camp, since the wind will trash the tents.
Camp 3 is now established at 24,000 feet on the Lhotse Face, and Chip/Jamling and Vance/Pemba Dorje are sleeping there tonight. Scott, Adam and Joe climbed to C3 today and came down to C2. Weather permiting, Justin and crew and maybe Val and Monty are planning to go for C3 in the morning, with Chip and Vance back down to C2. Hamill, Tim, Bob, Ryan and crew are at C2. Suk Bahadur is carrying some gear to C3 for those who are moving to 3 tomorrow.
Other members are at BC. Casey and crew are heading to Pheriche in the morning for a few days rest before summit push. The second EBC trek group is now at Dingboche. IMG guide Eben Reckord is with them and they were able to talk to Base Camp today on the radio. Everything is going well for them and they are planning to go to Lobuje tomorrow and Gorakshep the next day.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director


More dispatches and weather reports on the second page.

Live Weather Map

Weather Map courtesy of http://wxmaps.org
The map above is the 200 millibar chart (which is at about 39,000 feet- 11,818 meters) and this is generally where the jet stream can be found. The wind speeds are colored coded. The lightest color have winds of 40 knots (20 meters per second) and the darkest colors have winds of 200 knots (100 meters per second)

Winds in jet stream usually exceed 80 knots (40 meters per second) Mount Everest is located in the northeast corner of Nepal.



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