4/30/08 —Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 56 knots from the west and some clouds

4/29/08 —Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 56 knots from the west and cloudy to partly cloudy. Also a tropical depression is located in the Bay of Bengal which is south of Mt. Everest. However this should not have a direct impact on Everest outside of bringing a chance of precipitation for later in the week

4/28/08 —Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -30 C, winds 62 knots from the northwest and some high clouds moving in and out of region. Also a tropical depression is located in the Bay of Bengal. However this should not have a direct impact on Everest outside of bringing a chance of precipitation for later in the week

4/27/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -30 C, winds 62 knots from the west and some high clouds moving in and out of region

4/26/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 72 knots from the west and some high clouds moving in and out of region

4/25/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 48 knots from the west and mostly clear

4/24/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 50 knots from the west and partly cloudy

4/23/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 54 knots from the northwest and partly cloudy

4/22/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -28 C, winds 52 knots from the west and clear

4/21/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -27 C, winds 63 knots from the west and some high clouds

4/20/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -27 C, winds 61 knots from the west and mostly clear skies

4/19/08 — stimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -32 C, winds 74 knots from the west and mostly clear skies

4/18/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -29 C, winds 62 knots from the west and with some high clouds moving in and out of the region

4/17/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -32 C, winds 60 knots from the northwest and with some high clouds moving in and out of the region

4/16/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -32 C, winds 65 knots from the northwest and cloudy

4/15/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -32 C, winds 52 knots from the northwest with some clouds

4/14/08 — Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -32 C, winds 68 knots from the northwest with some clouds

Why Our Forecasts Are Unique and Accurate:

• We review a medium of 6 forecast models and at many more at times. This takes more time but the accurate results are well worth it. We know of no other forecasts that are produced with this detail and time commitment.
• Being a mountaineer, I know the value of precise detailed forecasts and I know the type of content climbers want.
• Each forecast uses a weighted average of the forecast models based on the accuracy of each forecast model.
• After each forecast is made, it is analyzed with actual weather conditions to determine the accuracy of each forecast and what needs to be done to improve each forecast.

Climbing.com's weather forecast and dispatches are sponsored by:
Alpine Ascents; International Mountain Guides; Project Himalaya

Dispatch from Project Himalaya
8 May - Chinese summit
This was day that all of BC was waiting for. The Chinese Olympic torch team summited and so now we are free of interference to climb Everest. The army cleared their camps and left on the 9th - smartly, as they promised.
While everything seems OK at BC, compared with other years all the expeditions are a bit behind. The ropes should be fixed up to South Col, but this won't happen until the 11th or even 12th of May, and yet the first real weather window begins a day after. Even with the ropes fixed to South Col it will be a few more days before any possible summit attempts. South Col must be stocked, which will take at least two-three days of load carries, and there is the fixing of the ropes to the summit to be arranged. There will only be a meeting about this in BC once the ropes have reached South Col.

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Team Back at Camp I
05/07/2008
Hello friends, family and loved ones this is Team Everest reporting in from high on the flanks of Everest in the Western Cwm. We moved up to camp one today, we started very early, we woke up at 3:00 and got out by 4:30 am. We were able to cut down our time and our exposure to the hot sun light by going early and that enabled us to move more quickly. We actually were able to trim our time down from nine hours on our first trip to about seven hours this time and that is a good thing, it is showing that everyone is acclimatizing. Everyone is doing well and all are in good spirits. Camp is definitely getting old; the tents are melting in after the couple of weeks that they have been sitting here. This will be our last time to use Camp I the next time we will go all the way to Camp II from base camp. We are thinking of you and we are happy that you are tuning in to read these cybercasts. Please join us tomorrow as we head up the hill doing the mountaineer thing, moving to Camp II. Ciao for now from what would be the top of Denali if we were in North America but it is just Camp I here on Everest
– Vern Tejas.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Cyclone Misses Everest but Offers Perspective
May 7, 2008
Eric here, with an update on our IMG expedition team. First off, I have to say something about the tropical cyclone Nargis: we were concerned last week that some of this storm in the Bay of Bengal might hit Everest (see the April 29th dispatch.) As I am sure you have heard by now, this storm moved east and made a direct hit on Yangon, Myanmar, and there are now tens of thousands of people killed or missing there. Our hopes and prayers go out to all those people in Myanmar, whose options are so limited by their government. Personally speaking, it really puts a lot of things in perspective for me.
On Everest, IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports that the IMG climbers have chosen several different strategies this past week. Many of the non-guided team members have been resting at Base Camp, after their earlier sorties to Camp 2, and are now getting ready to go back to Camp 2 tomorrow for another acclimatization rotation. Others, including the guided teams with Hahn and Grom, moved back up to Camp 2 several days ago, while Campbell's guided team went down to Pheriche for R and R. These climbers are all expected back to BC in the next couple days.
Our Camp 3 sherpas are still waiting for the green light to move up — we have a big strong Sherpa team and we can move fast to establish Camp 3 and Camp 4 once we get the chance, but we remain on "hold" until the Chinese climbers make the summit.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Resting at Base Camp
05/06/2008
Hi everyone, hope that all is well. The team has had a few days to rest and recover at base camp. We are ready and eager to go back to high altitude for our last acclimatization trip before our summit attempt. All the team members are doing well and in good spirits. The weather has also improved today so we are optimistic about the conditions that we will find on the mountain. Tomorrow we will have an early breakfast and will start moving to the icefall by 4:30 am. More news tomorrow from Camp I.
All the best - Jose Luis and Team.
PS: Dianette would like to say Happy 18th Birthday to her daughter Brianna; she can not wait to see you here in base camp. Much love to you Brianna.

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Cinco de Mayo
05/05/2008
Hey there friends, family and loved ones, Team Everest reporting in from base camp. Another fabulous day resting and recuperating, building lots of red blood cells, the team is in great spirits. We are getting over our coughs and hoping to return to high on the mountain very soon. We celebrated Cinco de Mayo today, with a candy filled piñata, our very own Jose Luis was the one who broke the piñata and the candy fell to the ground and we all celebrated. Another thing to mention is that we celebrated John’s birthday a couple of days ago so we are in a real celebratory mood here on the glacier. We are hoping that the weather soon improves so that we can head up higher on the mountain. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather. Stay tuned and ciao for now.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Break After the Camp 2 Rotations
April 30, 2008
IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports that most of the IMG climbers have now returned today (Nepal time) to Base Camp after the acclimatization rotation to Camp 2. Justin Merle and his guided team remain at C2 and will be down tomorrow. After that, we are anticipating that Everest will be "shut down" for the next few days while the Chinese make their climb. Our Camp 2 sherpa staff has been permitted to stay at C2 to maintain this camp, but everyone else is supposed to be off the mountain.
Tucker reports that some of the IMG Sherpa team has now been released to make their well deserved run down the valley to their home villages — they will be back in a few days (this is an annual event which they look forward to). Meanwhile, a number of the sherpas have been held back at Base Camp to be ready to start working on the route to Camp 3 as soon as we get the green light.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Camp II
4/29/2008
The Team is at Camp II at about 21,000 feet in the upper Western Cwm. The weather has been good but a little bit windy. They spent the day acclimatizing at Camp II and kept themselves busy by meeting their neighbors, reading, watching movies and chatting. Thanks for following along.

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Team at Camp II
04/28/2008
The team headed back up to Camp II from Camp I today and it took them a little over five hours to make the move. It was a beautifully day on the mountain although a bit windy at times. Everyone is doing well and send their best.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
All Well at Camp 2 and Promising Weather
April 29, 2008
IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report that everything is going well on the mountain. Most of the IMG climbers are still up at Camp 2 doing their acclimatization rotation up there. Our custom weather forecaster Michael Fagin in Seattle (www.everestweather.com) tells us that the tropical cyclone Nargis in the Bay of Bengal is now trending away from Everest (we had been watching that with some concern). This is good news — hopefully, with improving weather, the Chinese will make the summit soon, and everything will revert to normal!
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Back at Camp I
4/27/2008
Yesterday was a full day of relaxation for the team, there was a little bit of hiking but mostly reading books and relaxing. Today the team returned to Camp I and they were able to cut two hours in moving up to 20,000 feet, about the same height as Mt. McKinley and the team members are feeling good. This evening they enjoyed a good dinner of vegetables and tortellini with Guinea Pig Sauce prepared Jose Luis. They are going to bed early tonight and will be getting up tomorrow morning to head further up the mountain. Thanks for following along.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Camp 2 Ready for Climbers
April 25, 2008
IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report that over the last two days virtually all of the IMG Sherpas have made carries to the 21,000 foot Camp 2, a total of 43 loads of food, fuel, tents, oxygen, fixed rope, and other expedition gear. Tomorrow we will have 28 Sherpas carrying up to C2.

Currently at C2 we have three big kitchen/dining tents for the sherpas and members, as well as many sleeping tents. The first IMG members will be moving to C2 tomorrow, and over the next few days we expect most of the team to be moving up to C2 for acclimatization. So far so good!
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Team Explores Western Cwm
4/22/2008
A note from the office: The Everest Team is doing well at Camp I. After a good breakfast the team spent the day exploring in the Western Cwm. It was warm and sunny day and after few hours on the trail the team got some excellent views of upper Chomolungma (Everest). On the way back to Camp I they took a shortcut to avoid traffic and it took about 1/6 of the time that it took to go up, to go down. A rather handy shortcut, they will try to use it again tomorrow when they head up to Camp II. Thanks for following along.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Camp 1 Rotation Successful; Camp 2 Getting Set Up
April 22, 2008
IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report most of the IMG members who went up to Camp 1 for acclimatization overnights have now returned to Base Camp for a couple well deserved days of R and R. Their timing is excellent, since when they are ready to go back up, Camp 2 should be ready to use for the next acclimatization rotation. Today, 25 IMG Sherpas carried to Camp 2 and another big group will go up tomorrow, so the camp will be ready to use soon. We have several big, double-wall "Weatherport" type tents that take quite a lot of work to get set up, but once the Sherpas have them ready to go, they make great kitchen/dining facilities at the cold and windy Camp 2 (about 21,000'). The IMG Gokyo trekkers were visitors to Base Camp the last couple days, and they have now departed, heading for Lobuche. We'll keep you posted!
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Team Prepares for Camp I
4/20/2008
From the Alpine Ascents office: The Team is doing well, today they did an acclimatization hike and stopped in at the bakery. They spent the rest of the day preparing to g up through the icefall to Camp I. Thanks for following.

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
The Climbing Begins
April 20, 2008
IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report that the IMG team has had several successful days of movement on the mountain. After all the uncertainty of the last weeks, it is great to finally strap on the crampons and climb! IMG sherpas have established Camp 1 (about 19,000 feet above the top of the Icefall) and 14 team members have now moved up to Camp 1 to acclimatize for a few days. IMG sherpas have also been to Camp 2 (21,000 feet) to claim a site there, and we expect work to begin in earnest on this camp in the next couple days.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

The Khumbu Icefall is Open for Business
April 16, 2008
IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report that the Icefall route is now open. Tomorrow morning 28 IMG sherpas will carry to Camp 1 and Camp 2. The IMG climbers will start up the following morning — the idea being to give the sherpas a chance to get the camps established first. With our big, strong sherpa team, we expect to have Camp 1 and 2 established in only a few days.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Team Doing Well
04/17/2008
A note from the office: The team is doing well and resting at base camp. The Sherpa have completed fixing the icefall and our Sherpa team is scheduled to start up to Camp I tomorrow – and prepare Camp I tents

Dispatch from International Mountain Guides
Getting Ready for Camps 1 and 2
April 14, 2008
IMG leaders Tucker and Jangbu report that the Icefall doctors were back to work in the Icefall yesterday, but took a rest day today, and hope to finish the route to Camp 1 tomorrow. We now have the green light from the Nepal Army to start building Camps 1 and 2. The last few days have been good practice for the team members to hone their skills with the oxygen systems, icefall techniques, ladder crossings, fixed ropes, use of the stoves, etc. All good stuff to master prior to going up high. So far everything is going fine with the team.
—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from Alpine Ascents International
Base Camp 4/12/08
“Hi there Friends,
Up early and on the trail for five hours, we made it to our base camp at the foot of at Everest. At last we are here and ready to begin our great undertaking. Our fine Sherpa team has built us super campsite. We each have a tent of our own along with a cook tent, dinning hall and communications tent. We look forward to settling into our new digs. We all pitched in setting up our solar power system and lights for the main hall. Team members are well and seem to be handling the altitude with little stress. Join us as we learn what the climb will require of us. “
Namaste,
Vern and Team

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