A first recon
Two years later we were ready for a first try. My longtime climbing partner Robert, joined Henrik and I. (Robert spends close to 5 months of the year in Thailand!) Together we rented a boat and took it out to the island. On arrival to the island the Thai boatman thought the swell was to large for a safe landing so we had to swim in to the base of the tower. The first 7-8 vertical meters up the base was a scramble on loose rock and sand.

We cleared the choss and made a path up to a small cave with a firmer base. We could see that a line stretched up and to the right. The climbing on the lip of the cave looked to be possible. It seemed to be easier ground thereafter and the ”neck” of the chicken looked quite possible to climb. The roof however looked very intimidating, and whether it was possible to climb was impossible to judge from our position. After about an hour of recon we returned to the base of the cliff. Our boatman was nowhere to be seen. By swimming halfway around the island I managed to find him and wake him up from his beauty nap. 

40 meters of 6b+ for starters
Back in Aonang we planned and packed for a first route setting attempt. Our climbing ladies kindly, but firmly, declined any participation in this event, so they were abandoned with the children on the long and beautiful beach of Chicken Island (the opposite side from us). Henrik climbed the first vertical and exposed pitch placing some very suspect cams and the occasional sling. He cranked out about 40 meters of rope to a decent belay position on a shelf where he made first belay anchors placing slings. The second pitch was considerably easier, a badly protected scramble over less than vertical terrain which ended up on a second, big, shelf under the ”neck” of the chicken. A secure belay station was easily arranged and we could turn our attention to the ”neck”. It turned out to be very nice, big holds and a good crack kept the climbing moderate, (grade 6a+) on vertical terrain with many good opportunities for sling placements.

We were now finally just under the imposing roof. At almost 15 meters and strewn with stalactites it looked impressive and maybe possible. However, the better part of the day was already behind us so we lowered off and started to clean and drill boltholes on the first pitches. The first three pitches were equipped with a number of slings and fifteen glue in bolts. We had strayed to ”the dark side” using a two component Essve glue recommended to us by a hard ware supplier in Sweden thus not using the highly recommended Hilti 500 glue. Quite exhausted we now returned to our, by this time, irritated families on the beach.