Finally — red point time
When Henrik arrived: jet lagged sleep depredated and with only four days to spare it was time for the final push. We agreed that everyone should have a go at the roof and we also planned for me to film Henrik climbing the roof while I was hanging from the top anchor. Everything organized; we planned for a really early start the following morning. The boatman was ordered not to be one minute late. We were on site by eight and the gods favored us because we had a partially cloudy sky. Henrik speedily climbed all the way to the second belay station. I followed, then simul-belayed Henrik as he climbed the third pitch while Robert climbed the first and second. For almost four hours we took turns belaying Henrik as he cleaned and glued the missing bolts in the roof. It's so steep!

The first red point attempt by Henrik was very nearly a success but he took a wrong turn and fell off just after the crux. We were now all hanging under the roof to the amusement of the tourists traveling out to this “chicken island” spectacle. Henrik was trying to compose himself for a second go. Considering the situation, I didn’t give him good odds, but he managed to compose himself, and fluidly forced the crux. After he rested for a few minutes at a good shake-out on a bollard resembling a stalactite, he then went on and sent the route — a success! The moves and position on this roof climb are spectacular and truly world class in my opinion. Exposed on this huge roof, among the crème colored tufas, with the emerald green Andaman Sea below you, and the Pi Pi islands in the background — it is a fantastic setting. After the successful red point we could summarize that the available time was well spent and it was time to go home.