Hidden Branches of Joshua Tree

While this may be the standard scene near the campground climbing areas, there is always a guaranteed getaway from the crowds, and it may not be that far. J-Tree offers a pleasant surprise for those willing to do some hiking and exploration. Here are some good, less-traveled starting places, that, like the popular areas, are in Randy Vogel’s Rock Climbing Joshua Tree. These routes remind you that you are in the desert, with all its beauty and magic and possibilities. And since you won’t have to wait for other parties (or drown out the noise of yelling children or arguing couples), you can focus on your climbing and just have fun.

Quail Springs

The first stop on our journey will be Quail Springs, the first climbing area in the guidebook as you enter from the town of Joshua Tree. Six miles up the road, on your left, you’ll find the Quail Springs Picnic Area. Park here. A wealth of climbs lurks in these parts. I cannot list all of them, but come prepared to spend some time here; the more you find, the more you’ll want to stay.  

Hound Rocks From Trashcan Rock (the formation nearest the parking lot), follow a trail to the southwest, for a half-mile.

Baskerville Rock  The first rock encountered at Hound Rocks. The following routes are east facing, making for good morning climbs in the winter. 

Stemulation (5.9 R)*: As it sounds, a wide crack, involving stemming.

A Great TR, But Don’t Bolt Me (5.11b)**: A toprope. Face climbing, done J-Tree-style — clean.

Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a)***: A John Long and Janet Wilts classic; the crack line to do! Good pro up to 2 inches.

Hound Rock For quality, moderate crack climbs, visit this long formation behind Baskerville Rock. The routes are on the east face, accessed through the “Valley of Trash,” named for the waste left during earlier mining times. (Note: These artifacts should not be removed.)

Crescent Wrench (5.10d)** This route must have gotten better with age, because it gained a star and a letter grade since Vogel’s 1986 guide. A left-arching crack with a crux at the top.

Tossed Green (5.10a)*** A three-star, Stone Masters’ original, this is a direct line up the middle of Hound Rock, topping out just above a small roof traverse. Pro up to 2.5 inches.

Animalargos (5.11c R)*** Toprope it or try the heady lead (up to 3 inches); this timeless John Long, Lynn Hill, and Randy Vogel FA is worth the trip itself!

White Cliffs of Dover Up on the hillside, about a third of a mile southeast of Hound Rock, find this rock band, with its concentration of crack climbs, mostly on the left side.

Popular Mechanics (5.9)*** An enticing dihedral climb, up to 2 inches.

Ace of Spades (5.9)*** Left of Popular Mechanics, this awesome hand crack should not be missed (rack to 2.5 inches).

Red Snapper (5.11a)*** On the opposite end of the cliff from the other climbs, the crux comes at the bottom and leads up to easier climbing in the right-facing dihedral. Up to 2.5 inches; good pro.