Hidden Branches of Joshua Tree

Wonderland of Rocks — North

One of my favorites, this area has some stellar climbs without the hordes (not to mention, some longer routes in the park can be found back here). You can spend weeks here and feel like you haven’t touched the majority of routes. It’s so big in fact, that Vogel has divided this section into two: Wonderland North and Wonderland South. It is particularly nice to climb in this area, because you get a sense that you’re in the wilderness. Many of the routes are much farther from a road than the other climbing areas. You’re likely to be the only party on your crag and in the vicinity. In fact, chances are you’ll get a little lost, but maybe that’s a good thing. You’ll have plenty to do! There’s also less trash, and more vegetation, like the often stomped-on shrubbery, Mormon Tea, and California Fan Palm. If you’re lucky you might see a bighorn sheep or one of the six species of rattlesnakes (better viewed from a distance).

Getting to Wonderland North: Head east from Trashcan Rock and take a right three-quarters of a mile up. Park in the Key’s Corner parking lot. From there, you will find a trail that heads northeast to the climbing area.

Timbuktu Towers A mile or so up the trail you will reach what is known as the “Old Trail,” which runs north/south; go north, past the Atom Smasher Boulders, to Timbuktu Towers.

Gravity Waves (5.11a)*****

Gravity Works (5.11c)*** Both of the Gravity climbs were put up by Tony Yaniro,  who in 1979, led Grand Illusion (5.13b/c), then the world’s first 5.13 and hardest crack climb. Yaniro put up Gravity Works in 1983, with his partner, Toivo Kodas.

The Ivory Tower Northeast of Timbuktu Towers, the north face of this pillar features several difficult Randy Leavitt face climbs with adequate protection. If you’re looking to climb supreme 5.13s in J. Tree, you’ve come to the right place. 

Chain of Addiction (5.13c)***** In the middle of the face, follow a shallow seam, clipping nine bolts to the top.

Ocean of Doubt (5.13b/c)***** A Randy Leavitt vision. Negotiate the technical moves past five or six bolts.

The Super Dome From Ivory Tower, head southeast to the nearest huge dome; you can’t miss it. A handful of excellent paths (from 5.10 to 5.12c) lead you to the summit.