Scheillerwasserfall, austria, the cave is 30-40 meters tall, at least 5 meters overhanging and stays totally dry in the rain. the place is littered with Huber testpeices!
Well, the trip went off smoothly other than my back injury. I sat next to some easy to talk to travelers and had plenty of meaningless conversations. Stepping off the plane, my back was tweaked and I was extremely tired from not getting enough sleep. The walk to the baggage claim was uneasy but straight forward in the advanced and clean Munich airport. I collected my things and found my bicycle intact after being handled too many times. The customs check was informal even with my giant pieces of luggage. I quickly found Andy sitting at the car rental station. We shelled out some cash and were on our way only to be stymied by a slightly confusing way to find the rental. We nearly gave up when we discovered that the car was in a special place, a numbered spot.
Rain The second we began driving out of the airport lot the rain started to fall. It only took us fifteen minutes or so to start getting confused in the heart of Munich. It is a beautiful green city with a skyline capped at just a few stories. Like most European cities the roads were narrow and the cars moved like lightening. One difference that I did enjoy was the warning signal on the stop lights. Before a light will change to stop or go, it will flash yellow. What is great about this system is that everyone canes it off the line and you rarely have someone starting late after a signal. From then on, it was off to the races.
Rain
After few difficulties we found Andy’s friends house and began our walking adventure. It was raining, so raingear was essential, either an umbrella (which all the locals had) or a rain jacket. Our shoes and feet were wet and cold as we trudged through the damp city. We ate lunch at a Baker and enjoyed some fresh German breads and pastries (I am going to like it here). What we noticed as we walked was many small specialty shops that were unique and vibrant. It seemed like cash was always exchanged rather than credit. We had a lot to learn. Something else that we quickly learned was that everyone who walks through the city always (I mean always) obeys the traffic rules. I learned this upon being scolded for making a right turn on a red light. The local who reminded me was very adamant about me never ever doing that again. I was humbled and that moment still haunts me.
Don't know who is more scared, A-Burr or the scorpian. Arco, Italy
Don't know who is more scared, A-Burr or the scorpian. Arco, Italy
Local artwork from a retired climber, we called him "the cahinsaw guy" he had some huge log lifting arms and long grey hair and made you feel like he was a bad m-therf-cker
Rain
We wandered for a while and needed to find a power connector to charge our computers. This took way longer that it was supposed to at least 2 hours longer. Once that situation was remedied, we settled in at a coffee shop with wireless capabilities. We truly hunkered down as were there for a few hours. The rain continued to fall. On a lighter note, the people watching was awesome because we were in the heart of some famous market and the city was teeming with people sightseeing, shopping and mostly getting wet. We concluded the afternoon by messing with a friend in Colorado via the internet.
Rain Andy’s high school friend was very nice as was her roommate. After the introductions and moving in our sleeping bags, we went out to a smoky pizza shop and killed some time talking over beers and cigarettes. One more stop took us to an even smokier bar and then it was lights out. Andy and I were very tired and needed some sleep.
Clear The next morning was clear enough to enjoy the market and the 500 year old churches and buildings that littered the popular square. The bells chimed loudly through the city when the show was about to begin. The medieval sculpture covered building had on the main tower a huge clock and under the clock was a collection of figurines. After the ringing stopped the characters began to dance and spin around moving on a flat circular wheel. The massive crowds which were assembled in the square were pleased. Enough culture, were out.
Rain
The whole drive to Salzburg was wet. Sheisse(shit). We found Hari and Kirsten’s home and went for a climb. It was now pouring rain so much that it was difficult to drive. Once we arrived the 15 minute approach was slick, steep and soggy. To our surprise, the wall was mostly dry and there were many locals huddled against the remaining dry features. Andy was able to get some shots of Hari and it was time to go home. We spent the evening learning more German language eating some fine cuisine and dreaming of drier weather.
Its easy to get lost in between the many winding streets of every unique alpine village
Rain To our surprise the following morning was dry (not) yet we drove to the famous Schlierwasserfall. It is a steep overhanging 80 meter tall cave up in the mountains about an hour away. We hiked through a drizzle until we reached the wall and were amazed that it was packed. I guess when it is the only dry climbing in the country everyone is going to be there. The limestone was amazing to the left and to the right of the waterfall and less aesthetic directly below. No one seemed to mind the crowds and everyone got along nicely. We met some friends, took some photos and hiked down at dusk…. In the rain.
Rain
We woke up to a lot of fierce rain, decided to just go on a hike and call it good. We were leaving for Arco (an Italian climbing area) the next morning. Rain is no good when you have a photographer traveling with an injured climber. We had high spirits because we were first off to Innsbruck to pick up another climber and then to Italy to hopefully bask in the sun and talk in the view. Tomorrow would be a good day, with or without the rain.
Side note: need to buy bags at grocery, need to pay 50 cents to use cart (returned when you bring cart back), cash is used for almost everything, nothing open except restaurants and fuel on Sunday, need to buy sticker to drive in Austria/Switzerland, single anchor ok in Europe(called a pigtail), you will find crazy things at the butchers, as a pedestrian you must obey the rules period, oh yeah bring and umbrella, foamy milk mixed with shot of espresso called coffee, Austrians don’t know/use road numbers even though they are on the map, climbers still belay with figure eights.
Italy
The week in Italy proved to be a good choice, camping in tall grove of trees, eating pizza checking out the Italian women, eating ice cream, filling up water at local artesian wells, café’s, late starts, extremely windy roads, cemetery camping, lighting storms, more pasta, the dolomites, bouldering, photo stops, oh yeah rock climbing on sick steep limestone, tufa’s pockets, jugs and Italian chipped master pieces, scorpions, night free ascents and fun in the sun.
Wow, too many stories to relate but I think that you can get the picture, we set out to have some fun, make some photos and see a little bit of the countryside and we did just that. One of the highlights was in a small town called Erto where there was a huge landslide about 50 years ago. we ate in the local pizza shop and made friends with the owner and had great conversations about the world, her hot daughters (who cody and the rest of us had our eyes on) she gave us free dessert, lots of coffee and great memories. “watch it andy” seems to always ring in my ears as he dropped and F-bomb right in her face. In the end he shot family photos of her and her daughters. They were a bit hesitant to take of their clothes after hours but with andy’s encouragement they submitted to his coaxing (just kidding/we can all dream cant we?)
Typical Arco crag. Great limestone, well protected and wonderful
Typical Arco crag. Great limestone, well protected and wonderful
Where else can you go and still find valley after valley of untouched perfect limestone
In the end we were welcomed back in Salzburg by hari berger where our adventure began. The weather was still shit but andy was determined to come back after tasting the Alps.
The next weeks allowed me to catch up on some sleep, work at the local climbing gym (which by the way is called the Fun Hall), I get scared just thinking about the name and always think that I am entering a carnival yet the people are generous and happy to meet newcomers and are always willing to help you find your way.
I was finally able to get into the school and upon hanging out there and getting settled into my room I am slowly becoming comfortable with the new environment. As my summer break grows old and fades away into the new school year I am looking forward to all the new adventures that lie ahead. I already plan on moving into my own apartment because I fear burnout from the kids all too soon, I cant wait for the leaves to begin to change and fall, till the air gets crisp and cool, to hear the leaves under my feet, to see the first snowfall on our local mountains, to get a handle on my 5 preps at school, Italian road trips when its too cold here, learning to ice climb from the worlds best, training, getting fit and next summer…. Where do I begin, did I say that I will need a partner two…
I will do my best to keep you all informed as to what is happening in my life as I am sure that even though it is the same ole shit that because I am here and you are there it will seem just a little bit more exciting. I assure you that it’s the same ole stuff just a different day. I need to get used to this damn keyboard because the keys are all in the wrong places and switching between my computer and the school one is proving to be a large waste of my time.
Right now I have tried my best to get back into shape and have surprised myself as to how quickly I am returning to my old fitness, that back injury seemed to slow me down a bit but I am walking and talking 10 feet tall again.
Salzburg is a tourist town as I am learning and this festispiel sommer (or summer of festivals) makes the downtown an exciting place to be. There are the stupid tourists (me) and the locals who honk because noone really knows where they are going because the city is quite confusing your first time through and wherever you really want to go seems as improbable to get to as winning the lottery. This morning I was awoke by the sounds of canons firing at 8am. I was lucky to still be home at noon where their sounds filled the air of the valley.
Downtown Arco in the piazza, free water ain't a bad thing
Downtown Arco in the piazza, free water ain't a bad thing
Once the rain left, each day the clouds would burn off leaving behind a perfect sunshiney day
Some of the things that I already treasure are the bike paths. I can access the whole city in under 20 minutes of riding my bike (thanks mikey) and its really a fun place to ride. I can cruise the salzach river and hang out on the bridges and just observe all the little bits of action that are occurring like a whirlwind around me. Just the other day I witnessed a biker goof up, hit a wall under a bridge and crack her head open, many people helped and as she bled all over the bike path I was happy that I was wearing my helmet because it could have been me. Another time I was in town and a wicked dark storm cloud rolled in and as I pedaled through the narrow cobbled alleyways surrounding the castle plants and tables were just blowing by due to the winds intensity. People always give me weird looks, I think because they know that I am an American or at least someone from outside of town.
Another thing about Europe in general is that although they may show angst against America and all that we stand for (whatever that is) it seems that the EU just tries to emulate what we have got in our own backyard. Every year more countries are accepted into the EU and the borders keep falling. The once communist countries are changing however slowly and becoming westernized. The once cheap prices and unique cultures still exist but slowly become assimilated by the wests dominance. I think that it would have been cool to be exploring Europe and the eastern block countries just 5 or 6 years ago when things were very different. Now there are no more border checkpoints where if they wanted to explore you or your vehicle they could and did. No more is having to carry three or four different currencies for every different country. Switzerland is a holdout as is England and I believe that neither of those two countries have any plan of joining the EU. I think that most people are cool with the changes but there are still people who fear change and have angst against it in general. I apparently don’t really have a problem with it since I seem to always be changing my focus, friends and home.
Who knows how long this will last? When will I become dissatisfied and decide to move on? All I have to say is that I have a lot to do here before that day comes.
Thanks for listening to my ramblings and guess what… its time to go ROCK CLIMBING!!!
Covalo, Italy one of the many unknown crags in the country with the wicked fresh steep tufa pinching blue streaky streaked limestone. Cody Roth taking it to the hole.
Covalo, Italy one of the many unknown crags in the country with the wicked fresh steep tufa pinching blue streaky streaked limestone. Cody Roth taking it to the hole.
Enlarge
