Small Dogs, Big Faces

We decided to come back the next day after making a pact. “This is for fun,” we decided. “We’re just going cragging.”

The morning of the fourth attempt I didn’t want to get out of bed. This was our fourth 4AM start; we had covered twenty-one hundred feet of hard climbing this week on the steepest big wall in North America. I got up by telling myself that I would just talk Jonas out of it and would then go back to sleep until noon. I walked out to Jonas’ bivi site in the back yard and kicked him awake. We bickered back and fourth for a half an hour before Jonas convinced me to go. We drove in the darkness with our coffee cups filled to the brim. We climbed relaxed that day, more relaxed than I had ever felt. By the time we reached Ahwahnee Ledge we were feeling warmed up. The lactic acid was draining from our muscles and our spirits were high. If one of us fell that could mean the end of a complete team free ascent. We approached the roof and I had to step it up. Having never actually made a redpoint lead of this pitch I was apprehensive to go boldly. At the radical “surfboard” move I traversed back and fourth, looking for a new way. The pump was building and I knew if I didn’t get my ass in gear I could ruin my chance of ever completing the goal. I moved determined and free. I reached the anchors and knew my biggest challenge was completed. Jonas climbed quickly up the last pitch, running it out. He climbed focused and boldly. After busting through the crux and clipping the next piece he let out a scream that could be heard back at the Bridelveil parking lot. I followed slowly, my taste buds savoring every last drop.

The experience settled in our gut as we hopped over the talus field that led back to the car. Skin stretching smiles appeared on our faces. We drove towards El Cap meadow. Once there we darted out of the car and stared in awe. It looked bigger than ever. We pointed out the free lines and talked about our next objective. So many of our mental doors were open now, we couldn’t wait for the next adventure.