Mike Brumbaugh on a speed ascent the Red Rocks classic Cloud Tower.
Photo by Rob Pizem
Mike Brumbaugh on a speed ascent the Red Rocks classic Cloud Tower.
Photo by Rob Pizem
LEAD, FOLLOW, OR GET OUT OF THE WAY
The world of climbing is constantly evolving with difficulty standards being raised and speed ascents getting faster each year. We rock climb for many reasons: the solitude, aesthetics, the movement, the numbers, exercise or just to hang with the crew. The thoughts of change in this article were inspired by years of observations, personal experiences, and listening to others. What I am writing about is courtesy, other sports insist upon it, climbing needs to embrace it.
Let me give you some examples: in motorsports racing the slower cars move off the raceline when getting lappped, on the golf course faster parties play thru the slower ones ... We see it in our lives everyday and we learn from those who are more efficient than us. The time has come for this same learning process to take place in the climbing world. How can we use the lessons learned from the world around us to relate to today’s unchanged climbing ethics? Let me further explain.
You are a seasoned veteran climber, many years and much experience you have acquired but speed is not one of those attributes. You get up at the prescribed hour of the early morning and begin the long monotonous approach to the Diamond, to complete that last “big wall” route you have been dreaming about for so long. You begin the route and ascend a pitch or two, when a pair of climbers, who obviously slept in, catches you.
Rob Pizem slows down for a photo in Zion.
Photo by Mike Brumbaugh
What to do? You by right arrived there first in order to enjoy the solitude of the climb and the joy of having no one ahead of you, but your cherished hour is crushed by some thoughtless hacks pushing and making you feel uncomfortable. Well, what I am proposing is not a wild idea, but to let them pass as soon as possible. Some may say that this is not a new idea, but to some climbers letting another party pass is an idea that is farthest from their mind; they would rather compromise their safety and the safety of others by holding back the faster more efficient climbers.
I have heard time and time again from inexperienced and experienced climbers the story that began with “if only that group would have let us pass, we wouldn’t have been stranded on the route” or “if they’d let us pass, we could have gotten in at least two other routes” and “if they’d let us pass we wouldn’t have been caught in the storm that nearly killed us”. To remedy these types of situations, I propose to allow the pass to happen. Do not take offense, be pissed or even let it bruise your fragile ego. Whether faster groups pass while you are leading a pitch or at an anchor, the fact is that faster climbers have the right of way. No matter how fast you are, there is always someone faster.
Mike Brumbaugh on Astro Monkey, Smith Rocks, Oregon.
Photo by Rob Pizem
Mike Brumbaugh on Astro Monkey, Smith Rocks, Oregon.
Photo by Rob Pizem
I think that everyone that climbs, because they love to climb. Some folks enjoy getting in more pitches than others. Where 500 feet is a big day for group X (we’ll call them, greenbees) and where 5000 feet is a big day for group Y (we’ll call them, efficient climbers). Why would you want to take away that experience away from someone who loves the sport just as much as you?
Our climbing community is small and eventually around some warm sparkling campfire, we all meet friends of friends. Just as “greenbees” work hard to ascend routes at their limit, “efficient” climbers have worked just as hard to be able to simul-climb the same route in an hour that the “greenbees” will take all day on. They worked hard in order to sleep in till late in the day so they can climb routes like Moonlight Buttress in an afternoon. “Efficient” climbers through whatever method can rock climb a route in a few hours, where the “greenbees” will take much longer.
Years ago while at Yosemite National Park, I saw “efficient” climbers wanting to warm up on the Freeblast (the first 10 pitches of the Salathe) before beginning the day, but due to “greenbee” traffic and their “not let them pass” ethic, their day were partially ruined. What was truly funny and hard to believe was that they then decided to do a route on Middle Cathedral rock and come back to begin the Freeblast at a later time. As it turned out, the “greenbees” who did not allow the “efficient” climbers to pass failed on the Freeblast and destroyed the other climber’s big day without finding any success of their own. The “efficient” climbers quickly dispatched nearly 1000 feet of a route they never saw before and came back to find that the queue at the base had not changed at all.
Mike Brumbaugh in Red Rocks.
Photo by Rob Pizem
After observing this, I feel that all of us as climbers need to put ourselves in the other climber’s shoes in order to make this system work. Stepping aside may put you back a minute or two, but that is ok when it is for the better of everyone involved. Just as you saved your precious vacation days to arrive at the dream destination, so did they.
Sure, some would say that there are many climbs to enjoy and that as our sport grows and becomes more popular, that you must adapt to the conditions of overcrowding. It will be said that what I am writing about is elitist, but my seasoned response is get the heck out of the way and let those that can do it more efficiently and faster through and “step aside sucka”. If this concept sounds offensive to you, then you are probably not ready for the challenge and will continue to unfortunately ruin the experience for your fellow enthusiasts of the sport.
Now that I have your attention, I would like to illustrate how this works with sport climbing and yes, even bouldering. Sport climbing has the stigma of taking too long, routes being poorly bolted, too much spray, blah, blah, blah. I see it as another avenue of rock climbing and enjoy it immensely. How can the ethic of “step aside sucka” be implemented in these situations, well just read on and learn.
Again, “efficient” rock climbers can climb single pitch climbs very quickly and safely (especially when they know the route). If you are at an area where you may be holding others up at the crag, I say let those that can climb do the route climb first and then try yourself. Or better yet, go to another area where you can hone your skills in an unobstructed and peaceful environment.
Weekends at popular sport climbing areas usually have a plethora of great pitches, so take a step back and let those who are rolling through send them and move on. You might actually learn from these “efficient” climbers about cleaning routes quickly, lacing up while your partner pulls the rope, having the draws ready for the next climb before the route is cleaned and so on. These little tactics can make the experience better for everyone involved and help you get more climbing in. Personally, I have had many fine days at the crag where I have allowed the faster climbers thru. If your plan is to lounge around at the crag and maybe climb a pitch or two, it might be a better idea to stay home and relax by the pool. It seems that this problem persists at every crag, whether it’s on the East or West Coast, traditional or sport climbing and even bouldering or gym scenes. It is a problem and must be addressed and corrected.
Rob Pizem in Smith Rocks, Oregon.
Photo by Mike Brumbaugh
Finally, I would like to address this ethic in the case of bouldering. Those of you who have boulder problems wired, those who are just strong, or whatever should have the right to climb them whenever you want. These climbers have put in hours and hours perfecting the grips, the body positions and the effort required to ace the problem at any given time. With that time and effort comes the reward.
All parties will remain happy if we remember to “step aside sucka” when an “efficient” climber comes through. Personally, this works for me because I need to try problems and routes over and over. When I “step aside” for a climber who has the boulder wired, I am open minded not offended and I watch and learn new beta which usually helps me to accomplish my goal.
As you read this, I am sure that you have come up with many questions such as: Who the hell do I think I am? How can I tell who the efficient climbers are so that I can step aside when they come thru? Am I a “greenbee” or “efficient”? Can I sign up somewhere to let people know that I am an efficient climber so that I never have to wait again? Are there standard efficient times for long routes? What does “wired” mean? And lastly, where does the author live so I can kick him in the teeth? Well, let me shed some light on the matter. The following is a list of things to remember while traditional climbing, sport climbing, or bouldering.
You’re a "Greenbee" if:
you are still trying to get over 10 pitches of "moderate" climbing in a day
you take over an hour to lead a pitch below your ability
exchanges of gear at belays take over two minutes
racking up consists of more than five minutes at the base of the route
your rope is consistently tangled and poorly managed
you carry 25 pieces of gear for a 25 foot crack pitch
You’re an "Efficient" Climber if:
you are doing multiple long routes in a day at/or below your ability
you and your partner have minimized waste time at the crag and maximized climbing time
you make safe and quick decisions while on route in order to not waste time
Rob Pizem is a high school science teacher and a CAMP and Madrock athlete who has lived and worked in Austria with a broken back for the past year. "Piz" can be found charging up old routes and establishing new multi-pitch lines with a beaming smile on his face and infectious laughter where ever he goes.
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