It’s Not Just for Multi-Pitching 

Now that I have your attention, I would like to illustrate how this works with sport climbing and yes, even bouldering.  Sport climbing has the stigma of taking too long, routes being poorly bolted, too much spray, blah, blah, blah.  I see it as another avenue of rock climbing and enjoy it immensely.  How can the ethic of “step aside sucka” be implemented in these situations, well just read on and learn.  

Again, “efficient” rock climbers can climb single pitch climbs very quickly and safely (especially when they know the route).  If you are at an area where you may be holding others up at the crag, I say let those that can climb do the route climb first and then try yourself.  Or better yet, go to another area where you can hone your skills in an unobstructed and peaceful environment.  

Weekends at popular sport climbing areas usually have a plethora of great pitches, so take a step back and let those who are rolling through send them and move on.  You might actually learn from these “efficient” climbers about cleaning routes quickly, lacing up while your partner pulls the rope, having the draws ready for the next climb before the route is cleaned and so on.  These little tactics can make the experience better for everyone involved and help you get more climbing in.  Personally, I have had many fine days at the crag where I have allowed the faster climbers thru.  If your plan is to lounge around at the crag and maybe climb a pitch or two, it might be a better idea to stay home and relax by the pool.  It seems that this problem persists at every crag, whether it’s on the East or West Coast, traditional or sport climbing and even bouldering or gym scenes.  It is a problem and must be addressed and corrected. 

Finally, I would like to address this ethic in the case of bouldering.  Those of you who have boulder problems wired, those who are just strong, or whatever should have the right to climb them whenever you want.  These climbers have put in hours and hours perfecting the grips, the body positions and the effort required to ace the problem at any given time.  With that time and effort comes the reward.  

All parties will remain happy if we remember to “step aside sucka” when an “efficient” climber comes through.  Personally, this works for me because I need to try problems and routes over and over.  When I “step aside” for a climber who has the boulder wired, I am open minded not offended and I watch and learn new beta which usually helps me to accomplish my goal.