Climbing
Above & Beyond
Step Aside Sucka


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Rob gets a drink.
Photo by Mikey Brumbaugh

As you read this, I am sure that you have come up with many questions such as: Who the hell do I think I am?  How can I tell who the efficient climbers are so that I can step aside when they come thru?  Am I a “greenbee” or “efficient”?  Can I sign up somewhere to let people know that I am an efficient climber so that I never have to wait again?  Are there standard efficient times for long routes?  What does “wired” mean?  And lastly, where does the author live so I can kick him in the teeth?  Well, let me shed some light on the matter.  The following is a list of things to remember while traditional climbing, sport climbing, or bouldering. 

You’re a "Greenbee" if:

  • you are still trying to get over 10 pitches of "moderate" climbing in a day
  • you take over an hour to lead a pitch below your ability
  • exchanges of gear at belays take over two minutes
  • racking up consists of more than five minutes at the base of the route
  • your rope is consistently tangled and poorly managed
  • you carry 25 pieces of gear for a 25 foot crack pitch 

You’re an "Efficient" Climber if:

  • you are doing multiple long routes in a day at/or below your ability
  • you and your partner have minimized waste time at the crag and maximized climbing time
  • you make safe and quick decisions while on route in order to not waste time 

Rob Pizem is a high school science teacher and a CAMP and Madrock athlete who has lived and worked in Austria with a broken back for the past year. "Piz" can be found charging up old routes and establishing new multi-pitch lines with a beaming smile on his face and infectious laughter where ever he goes.



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