Climbing
Above & Beyond
The Horse and Pony Show


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CVL on pitch 5 (5.11).

P1 was short and only had one move of 5.10. P2 was engaging: 145 feet of 5.11 and only eight bolts, the rest: bomber cams. P3 ascended a blunt arête for 80 feet with bolts and a few pieces for protection. P4 took several days’ effort and was the crux: crimps and sidepulls up a black, limestone painted face, entirely bolt protected. P5, with the overhanging chimney, ended up going right of the chimney and up a slopey arête, also bolt protected. (We didn’t dare touch any blocks in the chimney as they are directly above the hanging belay.) We opted to stop where the top of the chimney and arête merged. Above, the terrain became less steep, much looser, and generally unappealing.


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Partners in choss: Chris Van Leuven and Michael Schneiter.

Completing the Pony Show marked hopefully the first of many more FA’s for Team Danger, as local climbing friends call us. And I’m glad to have a dedicated climbing partner; someone I don’t have to convince to go out whether it’s cold, wet or early; and to push me. Mike sums it up best “It's one thing to climb 5.12 on a single pitch, cragging in a relatively controlled environment. It's different four pitches up and on new terrain. Same goes for 5.11 sport or trad. A little (more) different when it's mixed like it is on our route. As far as FA’s I've done, it's the top of the list, hands down. I'm ready to say, forget this bullshit single pitch route development, I want to put up long routes, that's where it's really at.”



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