Climbing
Above & Beyond
The International of Glenwood Canyon


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Getting to the roof is guarded by some of the “worst rock I’ve every seen,” said Schneiter.


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KB anchor.

The route’s primary difficulties lie in the dubious rock quality and questionable protection. The crux pitch involves climbing a finger to wide crack through a roof with the benefit of face holds. Getting to the roof is guarded by some of the “worst rock I’ve every seen,” said Schneiter, who, with Van Leuven, is a veteran of other choss affairs in Glenwood Canyon such as the Mud Wall; the pair also free climbs in the Fisher Towers. The roof pitch was serious enough that Schneiter pulled the "I got a bun in the oven back home" card, and deferred the lead; he did, however, lead the team to the summit through loose rock and offwidths. Team Danger encountered 30-year-old soft iron pitons, a Star Dryvin bolt and two bivy spots guarded with rock walls, still intact from the FA.


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Pile of choss and also the summit pitch.


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The crux roof pitch, about 4 or 5 pitches below the canyon rim.

While the granite climbing is mostly straightforward, it was littered with dirt, copious amounts of lichen, bushes, thorns and lung-choking weeds. The granite terrain passed quickly through extensive use of simul climbing. "The limestone felt highly unstable," says Van Leuven, "it was littered with teetering blocks, unreliable anchors and meager protection." Consequently the pair slowed their pace and pitched out the majority of the limestone. The limestone band also required the use of a hammer, a selection of knifeblades, lost arrows and angle pitons.



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