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The Mace (III 5.9+), Cathedral Rock Group, Sedona, Arizona
Often called stout for the grade by desert neophytes, climbs cracks and chimneys on the flip side of the tower, before the infamous notch-spanning step-across directly above the rappelling climber.
All Mixed Up, Thatchtop Mountain, RMNP
There are few perfect introductions to thin alpine ice climbing. Most are too thin, too slabby, or too fat. All Mixed Up is one of the few. Situated high on the east face of Thatchtop in Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park ...
Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+), Joshua Tree
As one of the largest climbing areas in the world, with about 5,000 routes to choose from, Joshua Tree could keep you busy for a lifetime, though it hardly registers as a place to go for longer routes. One notable exception is Walk on the Wild Side, a 600-foot beeline up the right side of Saddle Rock, the largest stone in the Monument.
Conn Diagonal, Black Hills, South Dakota
This unforgettable 300-foot, three-pitch climb sits in the shade on Outer Outlet, one of many striking formations in Custer State Park, South Dakota. Although certainly not the hardest or scariest line in the area, the Conn Diagonal stands as a bastion of exposure above the Black Hills’ dark-green, Ponderosa canopy.
The Line, Lover's Leap, California
Aside from the first 15 feet of spicy face climbing (5.9), the route eats gear (up to 2.5 inches) for its entire three pitches, though these pitches are long and the rests are few. Stem, jam, and layback with an occasional dynamic move to jugs (protruding pizza-box sills) leading to the first belay stance.
Spooky (5.9) The Needles, California
The Needles of California dish out inspiration in spades. It’s a feeling that intensifies during the hour-long approach atop a remote, wooded ridge. The warm summer breeze quickly gives way to cold drafts that hint at deep canyons ahead, at a benevolent land changing into something darker, wilder.
High Exposure - 5.6 Shawangunks, New York
Getting to High Exposure is not an easy thing. Sure, the 20-minute stroll along the Gunks’ tree-lined Carriage Road is mellow: perfectly flat with views of the Hudson River Valley to your right, and the delicious Trapps cliffline on your left.
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